potential problems
since i am considering the purchase of a '97 Boxster, 44,500 miles, are there any other things that I should watch out for before committing to purchase? appreciate any help. thanks.
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I would NOT buy a 97. The car is underpowered and has its share of gremlins.
I would suggest at least a 2000, an S if possible. Good luck. |
Brucelee is right. And buy the best car you can afford. You'll be glad later.
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I will try to follow the advice of this forum as I know you guys have experience with Boxsters. We do have an auto shop that specializes in repair and maintenance of expensive european vehicles. |
"We do have an auto shop that specializes in repair and maintenance of expensive european vehicles."
Then I would have this shop check the car out PRIOR to purchase or you will get to be this guy's best friend and not in a way you will like! |
Do read my web links below as I own one of those first model year, early production boxsters from way back in 1997. I'd have waited and bought a 2000 S had I had more patience and cash.
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I myself own a 1997 boxster, I guess it's a miss or hit when it comes to engine failure. I still hear stories from this forum about people with their 1997's with 100k miles or so on original engine without major problems they encountered. I would definitely do a pre-purchase inspection from that independent shop if I were you. As for me, I did my own inspection when I looked at the car (very risky). I only asked the sales guy on where he usually park the car and he said it was where it was sitting at that time. It was negative on RMS leak. Took me quite sometime to look and feel for everything I can on the car. Everything looks perfectly ok, kind of like too good to be true on an 8 year old car. Got the car with 35K miles on it, drive it 2-3 times per week and it has been a year now without any problems. good luck with your purchase!
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On a 97 a leak down test and a compression test would be a must.
Also look for the dreaded oil leaks etc. |
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The independent shop has some record of that vehicle. He knows that vehicle had problems with the top and the passenger key cylinder and that it doesn't need anything much except for a tune-up and oil change, based on his records. But he cannot say much because that vehicle also went to another independent shop that I don't really trust which is the shop that converted the top to manual and removed the guts of the power top mechanism. But he did advise me to negotiate with the seller and see if I can bring the car in for further inspection before purchase. And following this forum's advise, this is exactly what I will do. And will probably negotiate for $5k-$7K off the asking price to cover costs of the top and key cylinder repair. If I can get it for $10K-$14K, I guess it shoud be a deal. |
Good luck.
If the guy will not allow a PPI, that will tell you much. I would walk if no PPI. |
why would someone make a motorized top manual..unless he did not want to pay for the repair..sounds suspect...
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