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Old 12-30-2014, 07:53 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
Some of the Motul products, Joe Gibbs DT40 or "Hot Rod" oils.
They don't specify the ZDDP amounts in their specs though. Unless it's listed somewhere else I haven't found?

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Old 12-31-2014, 03:13 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by patssle View Post
They don't specify the ZDDP amounts in their specs though. Unless it's listed somewhere else I haven't found?
We had them tested.
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Old 12-31-2014, 03:38 AM   #43
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I like to be environmentally conscious and use renewable resources. That's why I run my 3.2 exclusively on whale oil.
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:17 AM   #44
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I like to be environmentally conscious and use renewable resources. That's why I run my 3.2 exclusively on whale oil.
That is thinking outside the Box
Does Walmart carry it?

Of course if we all switch over to whale oil it won't be renewable for long
All those "Research' vessels won't be able to keep up with demand.

Do you melt down the blubber first or just shove it down the Fill tube solid?
Does it help with start up noise?

Think Green
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:43 AM   #45
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Hi,

well another oil thread.

bought the car new in 2003. Only use it in the summer season. In the first years i didn't know about any engine problems and the car was driven 20.000 Km per year, and was allways inspected by official Porsche dealers. They also did the oil change. Allways with Mobil 1 0W 40.

In the last 6 years i drove no more than 2.500 - 4.500 Km per year. And i began to do repair stuff myself, because of the relation between Porsche workshop prices and the car value. Since then i change the engine oil and filter at every season ending in october.

When i began to do the stuff myself i recognized a little oil film between engine and transmission after the car standing in the garage from october to april and decided to use a thicker oil. Now using a half snythetic 5 W40 oil. Also put in a fluid that softens gum sealings. No more leaking since than.

I think a 0 viscosity isn't good if the car isn't a daily driver. The oil is to thin and the car will start to leak when it's older. For seasonal used cars i would recommend a 5, or 10 W oil (if you don't live in a region where it doesn't allways snow).

ZN may be an aspect. But there are also other additives that help the engine.

Calcium (Cn) improves engine cleaning and improves the soil carrying capacity
Magnesium (Mg) improves corossion protection, thermal stability, the soil carrying capacity
Boron (B) improves the engine cleanliness
Zinc (Zn) improves the wear protection
Phosphor (P) improves the EP characteristics - improves corrosion protection, reduces friction
Barium (Ba) can improve the EP characteristics; mostly use in ATF to change the coefficient of friction
Sulfur (S) only in mineral oils. Wear and corrosion protection. Mostly combined with Calcium and Zink.

So if you use a full synthetic oil Zink is an important part. Whereas if you use a half synthtic oil you also have sulfur as a wear protector.

There are also other aspects like acids if you drive only very short distances, or if you never change oil and filter.

For the Boxster engine the most engine fails are caused by a failing IMS. And that is because the bearing seal fails. There are a lot of theories out there why this happens. I don't think because of the lack of Zn. I think the seal is weakend by the lack of softener. A problem every plastic, or rubber seal has when time goes by. Maybe new oil is tess agressive to the seal. But i don't know if that is a main aspect.

Also allways keep in mind that a manufacturer recommendation for an oil costs the manufacturer a lot of money.

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Old 12-31-2014, 09:10 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by Flavor 987S View Post
Slightly more zinc (about a 100 ppm at the end of the drain interval).
Slightly more phosphorus (about a 100 ppm at the end of the drain interval).
Much better SUS Viscosity at 210 degrees (less shearing of the oil).
I understand the need for Zinc and Phosphorus. Which begs the question "What do you think of the ZDDP additives?"
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Old 12-31-2014, 09:46 AM   #47
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I understand the need for Zinc and Phosphorus. Which begs the question "What do you think of the ZDDP additives?"
Not much. To distribute ZDDP in synthetic oils, most compounders use specialized mixing processes that involve the addition of additives specifically to get it mixed in and keep it uniformly distributed in the final mix. One of the reasons synthetic oils have limited shelf life is because these ZDDP distribution additives fail over time and the oil begins to striate. So simply pouring in some expensive ZDDP into your oil is not going to get it uniformly distributed or likely to keep it there.
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:24 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by kk2002s View Post
That is thinking outside the Box
Does Walmart carry it?

Of course if we all switch over to whale oil it won't be renewable for long
All those "Research' vessels won't be able to keep up with demand.

Do you melt down the blubber first or just shove it down the Fill tube solid?
Does it help with start up noise?

Think Green
I have a small tryworks in the frunk, and I've connected a hose to the EGR valve - so that helps keep down the smell. Of course, getting the works going in the morning is a bit of a chore but well worth the effort for the warm fuzzy feeling it gives me.
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Old 01-01-2015, 05:50 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by bwillia080261 View Post
I understand the need for Zinc and Phosphorus. Which begs the question "What do you think of the ZDDP additives?"
FYI. Porsche NEVER recommends the use of any oil additive. Not that I do everything Porsche recommends (but most).

I'm not a believer in oil additives. I'm a believer in using a better oil (from data I see in my Used Oil Analysis- Blackstone Labs) and just changing the oil a little early. I do 5,000 mile intervals now. That's about 2 oil changes from April till October. The other months the car sits in my heated garage for winter storage. Not a daily driver. It's a sunny day toy.

This is really not rocket science. Pick a high quality full synthetic oil (Motul, DT40, M1 5W50....just to name a few) and change it at least every year and every 5,000 miles. It's pretty simple. Don't over think it.

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