I assume nothing and quantify everything. Its instinct at our level.

Sounds good guys! This has been a great learning experience for me. I'm extremely appreciative of all the advise! I'll definitely keep you guys posted! I'll try another leak down without the spring/pulling up.

Does anyone have a good exploded view of the valve/spring/clip? Or even a good pic of how the spring/valve goes together? Can't find a good pic of it anywhere, just wanting to see what I'm getting into and how to take the spring out.

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However I think some things must be assumed, otherwise we would pages just in each post.

One of the few things I did not take apart on my Box engine, but I'll assume it is typical. To get it apart you'll need to pressurize the cylinder and pull the valve back until the pressure seats the valve. That is what will hold the valve in place so you can work on it. Then you have to depress the disk at the top of the spring. Chances are it is jammed over the valve keepers (two little half shells between the disk and the valve stem). To break it free I put a large socket on the disk and tap the socket with the hammer. Take care the socket can not contact the valve stem. As the spring is broken chances are the valve keepers will fall out when you do this, so expect it and have something in place to catch them. Now that the disk is no longer jammed you have to push it to compress the spring while not moving the valve and while maintaining access to the area where the keepers are so you can pop them out with a dental pick or small screwdriver (assuming hey did not fall out already). As you have the new spring there for this procedure you put in the new spring, put the disk back on the valve stem, depress the disk to reveal the keeper grooves in tsh valve stem, re-install the keepers and release the disk allowing the valve spring to expand. You're done!

You'll find having the proper tool to do all of the valve spring compressing will be critical. I'll bet someone reading this has insight into what works best.

Needless to say, if the valve does not seat the head needs to come off.

Perfect! That makes sense.... placing the order at pelican parts today.

So before removing the spring I did a leak down test while trying to physically pull up on the valve. Success. It stopped leaking and appeared to seat well and passed the leak down test. Now to figure out how to get the spring compressor on the broken spring. ???

The "spring compressor" pushes on the disk at the top of the valve to compress the spring As your spring is broken it may be partially "compressed" already. Here is a you tube with one possible solution. Note in this you tube the head is off and a table top is used to stop the valve from moving. In your case you'll be using air pressure to stop the valve from moving. Congratulations on figuring out it was a broken valve spring. If it were me - I'd swap the spring and get it back on the road, but then again I'm given to drilling holes in my IMS and running the engine up to 7K RPM daily. :eek:

how to remove/install valves with household tools - YouTube

All the best!

Game on!

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So did you pay for express postage from Pelican? ;)

Ok, I'm going through everything tonight waiting patiently for my delivery tomorrow. After reading about the timing, I know you are supposed to line up the silver links with the dots on the camshafts. I pulled these out like this. I realize that technically they are still synced, but is this typical for porsche to assemble them like this? Is it wrong that I'm so anal I want to change it?http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1400725296.jpg

^^^^ duh!!!!


My $19 valve spring cost me almost $600 by the time they were done with me!

I have a later engine. Give this a gander, this guy is great.

Porsche Boxster S engine rebuild 08 - YouTube

Ohh but the enjoyment and story you will have when you are done -- nice find!

Mike

Seriously. I'm not complaining. This has been awesome. I have very little I to the entire project and couldn't be more thrilled with the condition of the car. So pristine.

Ok, motor guru's... I know that I already know the answer, but I think I just wasted all that next day air shipping $$$.

Playing with the camshafts I was checking out the solenoid and noticed that this looks like wear and not design. Motor has 80k. I'm thinking I should replace these chain guides instead of putting this back together like this. I think it was Wayne that pointed this out in one of the instruction guides. Thoughts?

Bottom
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Top
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Yes, those cam brakes are toasted.. Guaranteed that you have at least 6* of camshaft deviation from that.

Yes, broken sting, now to ensure there's no collateral damage and move forward.

Great thread. Good luck with the project.

Exciting Thread
 

I feel like I'm there and your are asking us to hand you tools

So this device is the same thing as the Vanos in my BMW...just works a little different and looks a lot different

Looking at the picture of your cam sprockets and chains the silver links should be over the dots on the sprockets, and you may want to replace those chains anyway along with the pads to tighten up the valve timing on this side, which leads to the other side...

One thing Jake brought up on an earlier post, when you put on the cam cover use the sealant sparingly. I found the recommended 1 mm bead is more than enough. There is a small drain back hole for the cam oil pressure that you have to be careful not to plug with sealant. If you do plug that hole, the plug in the end of the cam shaft blows off. search "Exxon Valdez" in this forum for more information.

Before assembly I cleaned the sealing surfaces first with acetone, then with brake cleaner - so far no leaks. Keep going!