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Old 03-15-2014, 06:21 PM   #1
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Ignition switch holding screws

Well, my number finally came up.
After years of driving recklessly with a keychain with 3 other car keys, fobs, and 5 regular keys, my ignition switch finally died.

Thanks to many earlier postings on the subject of replacing the electronic part, I have been able to remove the old part and the replacement part is on the way.

A question to the members.
What would be the downside of replacing the two screws that hold the electronic part in place to something that I can turn with my fingers?

I understand I may be doing this job more than once. To me, the job will be a walk in the park IF I could simply use my fingers rather than a small screw driver.


Last edited by mikehkang; 03-15-2014 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 03-15-2014, 07:18 PM   #2
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Using thumbscrews seems to be a good idea. Otherwise it'll need to be in there securely so it won't get loose.
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Old 03-15-2014, 09:13 PM   #3
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Sounds like a good idea. After you do this job once or twice it's not too bad. I remove the vent for access.
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:36 PM   #4
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^ +1 on taking out duct. Although it's a bit of a fussbudget to get back in on the driver's side. Don't be afraid to yank on it
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Old 03-16-2014, 04:09 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clickman View Post
^ +1 on taking out duct. Although it's a bit of a fussbudget to get back in on the driver's side. Don't be afraid to yank on it
I think dghii was referring to the vent, not the AC duct. Some owners have opted to do the job via the vent on the LH side of the dash.
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Old 03-16-2014, 07:53 PM   #6
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Thank you guys for your input.
I appreciated it very much.
If I keep my Boxster forever, it would be because this forum and its members.

Now that I have the old part out of the way, even the door side screw is easy to access. I believe the time is now to replace the old screws with thumbscrews. I think with the thumbscrews, or longer screws, in place, I will be able to simply reach in with my arm to remove and install the electronic part when it breaks again. If this works like I am hoping it would, I won't have to remove the left air duct to access the door side screw.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:35 AM   #7
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This is how it looks now.



The screw size is M4. The one I used in the picture is 35mm long with a Phillips head. It is long enough to identify by feel and now I can remove the electronic part without putting my head inside the foot well.

The procedure is reversible. After the original screws are loosen enough for the bad part to come out, you can use a toy magnet to pull out the screw completely.
I will upload a picture of the magnet I used if anyone wants.

Concerns:
1. The old screws were tapered at the end. I may need to taper the new screws but I am leaving it as it is for now.
2. Should I or should I not use thread locking fluid.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:30 AM   #8
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Hello.

I replaced the electric/electronic part and the key will still not go in all the way.

This, the key not going in all the way, was my original problem.

Is there something else I have to do after replacing the part?

Thank you.
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Old 03-24-2014, 06:44 AM   #9
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I replaced mine last fall with no problems. '00S. Dumb question: Did you hook the battery back up before trying to put the key back in? Also, did you make sure the little notch thing was lined up the right way? Good luck

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Old 03-24-2014, 08:40 AM   #10
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Thank you SeanZ4!

I feel like an idiot but I got it working now.

All along, my problem was that the steering wheel was locked!!!

The key WAS going in all the way all this time. I was convinced that the electronic part was malfunctioning because my radio started to play, by itself, with the key out of the ignition while I was "troubleshooting" my original problem.

When I tried to install the heater air duct, I realized that "inside" M4-35mm screw I installed was too long. The screw was preventing the heater air duct from installing properly. I replaced it with M4-25mm hex head. I also replaced the "door side" screw to M4-30mm hex head. Both are much easier on my fingers than the circular Phillips heads that they replaced.

So it comes down to this.

- 2 x M4-35mm Phillips head = $0.86
- 1 x Audi ignition switch off eBay = $5.99
- 1 x M4-30mm hex head = $0.36
- 1 x M4-25mm hex head = $0.25
- 1 x M4-20mm hex head = $0.25 (a back up )
- Learning to replace the ignition switch, and being one with your car, priceless.


Thank you all for your support.

Michael

Last edited by mikehkang; 03-24-2014 at 08:42 AM.
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:00 AM   #11
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I didn't even think of the steering wheel lock. My Box is a third vehicle so it sits in the garage with the keys in it most of the time. I had a helluva time with the little screws too. I ended up using a craftsman "thumb-screwdriver" to get them out. Than I had my girlfriend use her little rat-hands to put the air duct screw back in. Glad you got it resolved!

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