from oil change to nightmare

[BYprodriver]

This was merely an Omen telling you the metal flakes in your filter indicate you should pull & clean your sump pan. Buy a LN drainplug to prevent future plug problems. Make sure the pan & case mounting flange are sanitized with rubbing alcohol before applying sealant & reassembling. Haste makes waste!

[seningen]

Originally Posted by BYprodriver

This was merely an Omen telling you the metal flakes in your filter indicate you should pull & clean your sump pan. Buy a LN drainplug to prevent future plug problems. Make sure the pan & case mounting flange are sanitized with rubbing alcohol before applying sealant & reassembling. Haste makes waste!

You should expect to have to remove some old sealant -- so be sure to have something to scrub it off.

I used a 3M Tapered Bristle Disc,2 In Dia,80G - Abrasive Bristle Disc-Cup Shaped - 6RX77|18732 - Grainger Industrial Supply

on a air tool -- but a cordless drill would work as well.

I'm sure it or something similar can be found locally.

Mike

[haste]

alright, the 13 bolts are removed. The hard part is removing that oil pan! Gave up after 15 minutes. The car is hardly off the ground however.

I heard pry bar in a certain area?

I used a rubber mallet and hit around the mount areas , no give.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by haste

alright, the 13 bolts are removed. The hard part is removing that oil pan! Gave up after 15 minutes. The car is hardly off the ground however.

I heard pry bar in a certain area?

I used a rubber mallet and hit around the mount areas , no give.

The rubber mallet sounds like a great idea to vent frustration. I'm using that in the future.

Go to the right rear of the pan, look for the engine number, it will look like this from a distance




and this close up



There is plenty of meat to pry between the engine number and the oil pan to get it started. The left rear corner also has a pryable area, but not nearly as nice. Do yourself a favor and get jack stands and a hydraulic jack from harbor freight, and then look up how to properly jack up and support the car so you don't damage it. Be sure to block the front wheels. Don't get the smallest jack stands, you want to lift about 19 inches in front of the back wheels so you can just roll right on in and get the job done. My experience is that you want a hydraulic jack that starts out as low as possible. Otherwise it will not be low enough to be of any use. Get a jack that starts as low as you can. I paid $80 at harbor freight, and it works great.

[Jamesp]

One other comment - don't pry with anything metal on the sealing surface. Gentle prying on that surface is fair game using wood or plastic, the key is to be careful not to deform or scratch it. Should not be a problem using wood or plastic, but anything made of metal could be trouble.

[Jamesp]

One other, other comment. Using a semi soft plastic scraper does a great job of removing the original sealant, and any Loktite 5200 from the flange area without scratching the aluminum sealing area. The 99 cent scraper gets trashed instead. Then clean everything up with a lint free rag and solvent that does not leave any trace of oil or itself. I use carb cleaner, followed up with brake cleaner followed up with acetone because I am OCD about leaks. The acetone alone should do the trick, but if it is all there on the shelf... Also if the flange area is not completely clean and dry when you apply new sealant, the sealant will never bond with the metal and you will have a leak.

[haste]

update, got it done! put 500 miles on the car within 4 days. new oil makes it drive SO much better!

there was no metal in pan, or filter at all. 87k. Think this early model single row will hit 200k with no ims bs?

[jcb986]

Bad break indeed. Good time to drop the pan and see how much of the flakes are there. Clean it good and do a slow check of everything you see. Be carefull when cleaning the old sealant. I usually use a automotive type putty knife, you also get them made of plastic. On the pan after cleaning use the alcohol to remove oil residue. When you apply sealant, use a thin beed and use a artist type paint brush to smooth it out over the plane of the pan, smooth it out to the outside and keep away from the inside edges. Do not torque any bolts until you get all of them in and snugged up a little. Some guys have all the fun.