One of these billet tensioner paddles might be a worthy investment since you're going to all that trouble:
FOR PORSCHE: 10610, 106 10 - READY TO SHIP - (BILLET CRANKSHAFT TO IMS CHAIN TENSIONER PADDLE BOXSTER/CAYMAN)

It takes OEM Porsche tensioner pads.

I saw a 3.6 from a 03 C4S that was in my mechanic's shop for a rebuild the other day and the tensioner paddle was snapped clean in half..

NewArt yes I used one (home made) and its not for security, you need it... unless you have a car hoist, you might be able to do the project in a different sequence with a hoist.
The engine is bollted with the transmission, the only support holding this unit in place is the engine support at the front of the engine and the left and right transmission support.
If you remove the transmission to get at the engine, the engine will only be supported by the front engine support, this is insufficient support. So you have to temporarily support the engine from above (like project nutrod) or below with a jack.
The jack I removed my transmission with was the same jack that I was going to use to lower my engine with, so it becomes a matter of logistics. Logistics of tools as well as space. I went with the support from above.

Below are some home made tools that might help you, let me know if you want measurements.

engine strong back support 2(2x4x60")
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381363659.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381363722.jpg

steering pump tank syringe with tube
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381363834.jpg

coolant thermostat remover/installer (1 5/8" cooper drain pipe)
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381363944.jpg

car lift pad (hockey puck and 1/2" pipe flange)
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381364426.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1381364679.jpg

Love that 2x4 brace! I've found some links on this forum on the fabrication of specialized tools like cam positioning etc.
Maybe I can fashion my own tensioner pads out of soapstone or something! Or not. 😜
Thanks for any and all advice! Pictures are a great help.

So now I'm putting together a list of stuff I will need to do this job.

Tools I have:
-Usual sockets and air tools
-2 garage jacks
-4 jack stands
-Durametric
-tye wraps, clamps, rags, plastic wrap

Going to buy:
-ATV jack (to drop the engine)

Want to make:
-tools for camshaft (found some plans, would appreciate others, especially dimensions). The price of the ready-made tools is crazy. Seems that with a drill press, a band saw and a tap and die set, the fabrication of these tools is not rocket science!

I guess I'll wait until I open up the engine to order any parts.

(I am not a rocket surgeon.) :cool: Please feel free to input! I need all the help I can get!

You have to split the case halves to install that, but you can buy it much cheaper directly from LN

Yeah, I don't know if I want to dig that deep on my first foray. I'm thinking cam timing and tensioners, check/replace the lifters if necessary, install low temp thermostat and maybe replacing the ATF temp sensor wiring harness which has been throwing me P0710 codes (see my post elsewhere about this: D-4 lights flashing but normal shifting? - Pelican Parts Technical BBS ).
From the "if it ain't broke..." school, I know, but there's always preventative stuff to be done on an old car! ;)

Tub O Towels from Canadian Tire or Lowes in USA. They have a degreasing solution in them. I used them regularly on my project and was glad to have them.

Engine stand - I bought one with a "U" base and this worked out well in combination with my ATV jack. I'm normally working alone. When it was time to install or uninstall engine to stand I just wheeled my engine (on ATV jack) in between "U" base of engine stand and transfered it to engine stand. If your ATV jack doesn't lift high enough you may have to place some blocking between engine and jack.
At the final stage of my bebuild project my son was home so we lifted the engine on and off the stand, much quicker.

NewArt,
just to give you an idea what your going after, below are the tensioners and guides that I replaced in my 04S.
I replaced them all even though the tensioner from the IMS to Crank was the only one that broke. The others had metal pieces embeded in their running surface.

I'm glad you liked the 2X4 brace (the art of necessity the mother of invention). What do you think of the copper drain pipe thermostat removal tool!! works slick.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1382099168.jpg

I can see how the "u" base could be useful. Don't seem to have it at Can Tire; trying Kijiji and others. I'm a big fan of homebuilt tools and I have access to a shop. :)

Porsche (unfindable) extra special tool 9599
 

Some of your have followed my quest for info about dropping the engine and doing a chain tensioner swap/upgrade/replacement. I have seen references to the Porsche factory chain tensioner tool 9599 which is apparently quite expensive and, if I understand correctly, unnecessary according to Wayne Dempster's book: "If you do not have this extremely expensive tool (upper right inset of Figure 24), you can tighten up the tension on the chain using the regular chain tensioner. Reinstall the tensioner completely into the bottom of the case."
So, do I do, or do I don't need this? If you have any experience with this please let me know. :confused:

with my rebuild we followed Jake R. method and precharged the actual chain tensioners with a heavy weight oil (pour oil into a bowl to a level that will cover the tensioner, place tensioner in bowl and with fingers squeeze tensioner in and out displacing any old oil and replacing with new heavier weight oil from bowl).

If I recall you should be able to search this sight, renntech and rennlist to find out more on this topic "chain tensioner tool 9599".

Newart i was thinking of you yesterday when I saw engine supports on sale at princess auto, $69 i think, good price.
Princess Auto just opened in S.J. only about 8 months late for me.

Yeah, I saw that too :) Actually, I've located one for sale on Kijiji locally for $50. Closest Princess is at Ottawa (2 hour drive).

Making sure that oil is warm, makes a huge difference.. Just warm enough to burn you and not hot enough to produce any smoke and you are just fine!

I also use a lightweight oil, not a heavy weight.

I like to cook um @ 250degrees & use a egg carton to store lifters & make sure they go back where they came from if they pass the test.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1382647395.jpg

Looks delicious! :cheers: But why are you cooking the lifters?

Because I paid Jake to tell me what to do & this is what he told you & I to do, although I may be a little high on the temp.

Yep, he learned that in my training center :-)

The hot oil is viscous, which means it easily enters the lifters and fills air pockets with oil. This means at start up the lifters are already "pumped up".

hijack!!! or is that hijake? anyways, on the topic of lifters, any feel for what rpm the hydraulic lifters max out and solid lifters become the better option?

ok, back on topic!

Jake has answered this before. I don't remember if it was Rennlist 996 forum or this one.