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Old 12-13-2005, 03:01 PM   #1
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First breakdown

So I've had my Boxster all of two weeks and had to have it towed home tonight. I pushed the clutch in and it only came back about half way. I pushed the clutch in a second time and it stuck to the floor. So, Im at the light my clutch pedal is down on the floor I pull on it with my hand oil from the clutch master cylider sprays everywhere. There is obiviously a hole in one of the fluid lines. Any ideas? If that dang Boxster book was out I would buy it tomorrow! Im not paying a grand to have this fixed!! I will figure it out myself!! I dont know what it will cost to fix, just a rant. This happen to anyone else?

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Old 12-13-2005, 03:24 PM   #2
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If it makes you feel any better, my Check Engine light came on on the way home from the dealership...
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Old 12-13-2005, 04:33 PM   #3
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ohioboxster, aren't you under warranty still?

Did the clutch oil spray on your interior?

Very sorry for ya.
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Old 12-13-2005, 04:40 PM   #4
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No the clutch oil sprayed behind the front drivers side wheel and ran all over the ground. I wish it was under warranty. I posted about buying an aftermarket warranty but decided to just roll the dice, lol. After this repair I may consider a warranty.
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Old 12-13-2005, 04:54 PM   #5
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If you end up not doing the work yourself,

Steinel's is a very highly rated shop that lot of our club members swear by. I'm with EBR, BTW.
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Old 12-13-2005, 05:13 PM   #6
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Thanks

I work in the township of Twinsbug sometimes which happens to be in the city, anyway thanks. It will be a huge tow bill to T-burg though. Great info though, I will stop in there one morning.
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Old 12-13-2005, 06:34 PM   #7
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What's the MY?

If it sprayed from outside the cabin, then it is one of three things.

1) Master Cylinder blew a gasket.
2) Flex hose blew out (not sure where it's located on the Boxster)
3) Metal clutch line was cut or a hole worn in it.

If the leak originates inside the cabin, then it's the master cylinder seals.

What you need to do is put some cheap DOT4 brake fluid in to help you locate the leak. Once it's located and you know what it is, it will be easier for one of us to help with replacment instructions. I'll be happy to look it up in AllData and see if there are some instructions there.

I hope it's one of the lines. Those are much easier to replace than the MC.
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:44 PM   #8
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Hi,

As John states, it could be the Hydraulic Line, which would be the easiest.

But considering that your fluid leaked at the Rear Wheels, it's most likely your Slave Cylinder Seal. These Slave Cylinders are fairly easy to replace. It can also be relined and rebuilt (although I'm not sure such a rebuild kit exists for the Boxster). Usually, though, it's more cost effective to simply replace the Slave altogether.

Oddly, the Porsche Technical Manual does not even have a procedure for R & R'ing the Slave Cylinder. It does appear to be attached with one M8 Bolt and the Manual does state a Torque Value for this - 23Nm (17 ftlb.). You'll also need a set of Flare Nut Wrenches to loosen/attach the Hydraulic Line to the Slave. Finally, the Manual states that you MUST use a Pressure Bleeder to Bleed the Line with the Clutch Pedal Fully Depressed, and that you must maintain a Bleed Pressure of 1.5 BAR (21.75PSI). Hope this helps... Jim '99
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Old 12-13-2005, 10:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohioboxster
If that dang Boxster book was out I would buy it tomorrow! Im not paying a grand to have this fixed!! I will figure it out myself!! I dont know what it will cost to fix, just a rant. This happen to anyone else?
Bently is releasing their service manual this Thurs so you may be in luck. You should check it out. Every you need to know about your boxster should be in that thing.
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Old 12-14-2005, 12:51 AM   #10
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Thanks guys

Let me clarify, the leak is behind the front drivers side wheel. It just didnt leak it sprayed. Where is the clutch master cylinder? How do I fill it, then how do I bleed it once its repaired?
Heres another thought, I think in some way this problem stemed from my stereo install. I had a new cd player installed the day I bought the car. Once I removed some inspection panels in the bonnet area I noticed holes that had been drilled. This was either from a previous owner that had an amp and sub or from the stereo install I had done. Its strange there are like three holes but no wires running through them. The guy at the stereo place said he rewired all the speakers so I dont know. Anyway, my thought is when he drilled a hole a line was hit. seems strange that a hydro line would blow doesnt it?
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Old 12-14-2005, 05:04 AM   #11
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Sorry to hear of your mishap....If this was not caused by any work you had done on your car, I suggest you look into your states laws governing auto purchases. Some states have laws which protect you from incidents like this that happen so close to the time of purchase.....I know in Hawaii my horn did not work(much simpler to fix, I know) a week after I bought the car, and the dealership had to fix free of charge.....State law!

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Old 12-14-2005, 07:06 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohioboxster
Let me clarify, the leak is behind the front drivers side wheel. It just didnt leak it sprayed. Where is the clutch master cylinder? How do I fill it, then how do I bleed it once its repaired?
Heres another thought, I think in some way this problem stemed from my stereo install. I had a new cd player installed the day I bought the car. Once I removed some inspection panels in the bonnet area I noticed holes that had been drilled. This was either from a previous owner that had an amp and sub or from the stereo install I had done. Its strange there are like three holes but no wires running through them. The guy at the stereo place said he rewired all the speakers so I dont know. Anyway, my thought is when he drilled a hole a line was hit. seems strange that a hydro line would blow doesnt it?
Hi,

Sorry, my mistake. From the sound of it, it sounds like either a Hydraulic line or the Master. S/B easy enough to determine. Not as easy as doing the Slave but not too bad. BTW, how many total miles? Often when replacing the Master, you lose the Slave in short order. This is because the new Master is sending more pressure to the used Slave. I usually replace the Master/Slave in pairs for any car with over 30k mi. on it. It's just easier doing the job one time and of course you save on Brake Fluid and avoid a possible tow. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Old 12-14-2005, 11:02 AM   #13
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The car now has 42,000 miles I think I will wait until the repair manual comes out on Thursday and take a look at it. Thanks for the input everybody
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Old 12-14-2005, 11:39 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNBoxster
Often when replacing the Master, you lose the Slave in short order. This is because the new Master is sending more pressure to the used Slave.
BTDT...Great advice to just go ahead with both if one is gone along with the rubber flex hose that's in the line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohioboxster
Where is the clutch master cylinder? How do I fill it, then how do I bleed it once its repaired?
The MC is directly under the clutch pedal. To fill it, you fill the brake reservoir. They are together, but separate. The bleeder screw will be on the back side of the MC. Once you fix it, you need to bleed the MC first, then the SC. Also bleed the brakes to make sure no air got in there since they are connected.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohioboxster
The guy at the stereo place said he rewired all the speakers so I dont know. Anyway, my thought is when he drilled a hole a line was hit. seems strange that a hydro line would blow doesnt it?
The metal hydraulic lines don't usually blow unless they're pretty old and rusted. There's a chance he hit one if he drilled through the metal body panel. The hydraulic lines run right along the body. If he drilled through the body, you need to check for knicks in the line then go pound him for drilling through the body when there are several routes to the front and rear trunks.

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