ok.. so windows don't work, top won't move, trunks & *@#! gas door won't open

[sam c.]

Another one...

[sam c.]

This component looks brand frunking new...

[sam c.]

Seriously, it looks like it was installed a few weeks ago. No discoloration, no dust, nothing. Shiney and new. If this thing is the problem, I don't what to say. I'll probably just shake my head in sad amazement.

Where should I go from here? I'm totally open to suggestions...

[ccstud17]

after 48 hours of every fan i could own blowing on the dang thing it worked, and has since!
scrape all connections to ensure no micro corrosion and put back together with DE grease, if it works hell yea, otherwise Im out of ideas lol
Test the voltage coming from those wires maybe??? besides testing against a proven immobilzer, not sure how to know if yours is toast or not.

Edit: how does the ground look? its right there in the first pic, could be a shoddy or corroded ground?

[sam c.]

Yeah, I thought about that ground after the fact. I did look it over while removing everything and it looked fine but didn't actually pull it off and emory cloth the shift out it like i had wanted to originally...

I'll probably go back and do that tomorrow just to remove it from the list of maybe's.

[sam c.]

Just outta of curiosity, does anyone know how to test these things? What is the pin layout? What can a guy and his multi-meter do to determine good or bad. As much as I like to claim magical properties of these boxes, there's a design function at work. What is it? This is not Harry Potter BS. Its a machine so someone has to know how to ask it if its good, bad, and/or intermittently good/bad.

[sam c.]

Why is everybody on ebay selling immobilizers with an ecu and a key head? And for $800?!? Can u not just replace one of the components? Do you seriously have to replace the entire electrical system of the car?