ok.. so windows don't work, top won't move, trunks & *@#! gas door won't open

[ccstud17]

add the relay switches at the latch site of the top to your overhaul #2 list. Without a little glob of silicon on my "hook" to depress the activator more, my windows will not go past "top operation" mode.

Lets hope its something stupid easy like a fuse and not the immobilizer. Main reason I keep hounding for it, is that my 99 did the same thing... first it was the keyless entry not working, then the windows, and then finally no start.
keep us updated!

[sam c.]

I have to ask, Spencer... Did u end up having to replace ur immobilizer?

[sam c.]

OK, so another update...

I'm pretty sure the roof is a separate issue so I'll stop crying about it (on this thread anyway... Lol). The final solution to travesty that is the convertible top circuitry is still to just remove it all and go manual. In this case, I'm thinking the problem is the micro switch above the windshield.

As for the windows and locks...
I pulled the seat and didn't find any relays for the windows or locks. I did find the mysterious immobilizer however. (Porsche part#: 123-car-no-longer-workie-because-frunk-you-customers-thats-why).

Heres some pictures because why not... Everyone loves pictures.

The well under the seats and wiring harness. No crimps or damage to the wires. Some older moisture indication (slight discoloration) on the carpet back against the firewall but none on the immobilizer or in the well.

[sam c.]

The connectors under the seats. No indication of moisture or corrosion. That and I'm pretty confident all this bs is related to making the seats move around.

[sam c.]

The immobilizer connections. All look good and clean. No hint of corrosion of any kind.

[sam c.]

Another one...

[sam c.]

This component looks brand frunking new...

[sam c.]

Seriously, it looks like it was installed a few weeks ago. No discoloration, no dust, nothing. Shiney and new. If this thing is the problem, I don't what to say. I'll probably just shake my head in sad amazement.

Where should I go from here? I'm totally open to suggestions...

[ccstud17]

after 48 hours of every fan i could own blowing on the dang thing it worked, and has since!
scrape all connections to ensure no micro corrosion and put back together with DE grease, if it works hell yea, otherwise Im out of ideas lol
Test the voltage coming from those wires maybe??? besides testing against a proven immobilzer, not sure how to know if yours is toast or not.

Edit: how does the ground look? its right there in the first pic, could be a shoddy or corroded ground?

[sam c.]

Yeah, I thought about that ground after the fact. I did look it over while removing everything and it looked fine but didn't actually pull it off and emory cloth the shift out it like i had wanted to originally...

I'll probably go back and do that tomorrow just to remove it from the list of maybe's.

[sam c.]

Just outta of curiosity, does anyone know how to test these things? What is the pin layout? What can a guy and his multi-meter do to determine good or bad. As much as I like to claim magical properties of these boxes, there's a design function at work. What is it? This is not Harry Potter BS. Its a machine so someone has to know how to ask it if its good, bad, and/or intermittently good/bad.

[sam c.]

Why is everybody on ebay selling immobilizers with an ecu and a key head? And for $800?!? Can u not just replace one of the components? Do you seriously have to replace the entire electrical system of the car?

[sam c.]

From what I've read on these forums and elsewhere...

Porsche doesn't have anything called an Immobilizer Box or an ECU. Porsche calls the computer under the seat (of a Boxster) the Drive Box.

In case you forgot, they look like this:

[sam c.]

The Drive Box chip contains one control module for the immobilizer, central locking, and alarm units. The DME (digital motor electronics) or the ECM (engine control module) which are the same thing is mounted in the trunk.

Ok, so what I gather...
The transponder in the key somehow talks to the immobilizer who is in constant communication with the DME. The DME is fully capable of doing all the heavy thinking for the car. It drives the engine under all conditions but just like Tina Turner in Road Warrior (Beyond Thunderdome), it (the DME) wont lift a finger without permission from the midget (the immobilizer) riding around on the big dude's back.

Also, apparently there's a whole frunking list of bizarre trips that can give the immobilizer all the excuse it needs to refuse to start. Things like leaving the key in the lock too long without actually starting your car. Sitting in the drivers seat for too long without starting your car. Opening the driver's door and sitting in the driver's seat with out first facing the Fatherland and raising a single arm salute. And many others...

For your enjoyment and to remind you who runs Bartertown (aka who owns your car - hint NOT YOU):
Who runs Bartertown? - YouTube

[sam c.]

As for the Central Locking Unit...

I'm not sure whats going on though that's clearly the problem with my car.

I did find this on Pedro's site:
We have had great advances in ECU reprogramming in the last couple of years.
Some services which were considered impossible on a Porsche’s DME, are now available to the general public.
For special applications, such as race cars, we can now eliminate the immobilizer function, allowing the driver to not need the key to start the car.
We are now also able to completely eliminate and remove the CLU (Central Locking Unit) and it’s (heavy) wiring harness under the driver’s seat which can easily get water damaged and go completely haywire when caught in a downpour while at the track, rendering the session if not the weekend a total loss and a very expensive event for the racer

[sam c.]

Looks like the price is $500 but that's for a reflash.

It'd be awesome to go thru and do some other up grades such as an exhaust, ported TB, etc and incorporate all that into a reflash that also removes the immobilizer and the central locking BS.

Get all the reliability enhancments (and get this midget off my back so I can get down to the business of running Bartertown like a boss!) and realize some pretty decent power gains for one low price? Yes please!

[Homeboy981]

Sam,

Sorry to hear about your dilemma, and I hate to say it, but I wonder "what's next?" in the continuing saga of a man trying to work out all the bugs in our machine.

Thanks for the tips you have given. Here's one that may help you.

Dead or Faulty ECU? Here are a few ideas and solutions - Specialized ECU Repair

They re-program ECUs. Also, can modify certain parameters of that monkey to make it scoot! Especially with those mods you have done. It may be expensive but you sound like you are there already.

Keep us posted! It's funny how you can never post enough pics…although thank you for trying. It still just generates more interest!

Go get the frunkin' thing working again!

[sam c.]

Originally Posted by Homeboy981

Sam,

Sorry to hear about your dilemma, and I hate to say it, but I wonder "what's next?" in the continuing saga of a man trying to work out all the bugs in our machine.

Thanks for the tips you have given. Here's one that may help you.

Dead or Faulty ECU? Here are a few ideas and solutions - Specialized ECU Repair

They re-program ECUs. Also, can modify certain parameters of that monkey to make it scoot! Especially with those mods you have done. It may be expensive but you sound like you are there already.

Keep us posted! It's funny how you can never post enough pics…although thank you for trying. It still just generates more interest!

Go get the frunkin' thing working again!

Great post, Mark! Made me lol from start to finish. Haha. Yeah, this piece of shift is def starting to test my limited reserves of patience. Glad u enjoy the pics and effort it takes to work a Thunderdome reference into general conversation.

[sam c.]

I'd like to thank Spencer for being right on the money...

This little fuse here:


ended up having some corrosion on it. The spades on the fuse looked pretty decent but the connections inside that the fuse pushes into had some corrosion. Not much but a very little bit of discoloration. I got them all cleaned out, cleaned the fuse, and voila - suddenly the whole system works again.

Stupid car.

What's funny is the old 77 scout's fuse box looks like it suffered a mild fire that was put out with salt water and has never had so much as a hiccup. Ridiculous.

I'm now absolutely certain that Mild Overhaul #2 scheduled for next winter will include removing the central locking system and the immobilizer along with a good old fashioned ECU reflash to free up some horsepower.

Meanwhile, all the connections were lubed up good and deep y'all (read that in a southern accent) in dielectric grease. I'll seal the living shift outta the box with Vaseline or something tomorrow before tossing the seat back in.