Brake fluid flush

[JFP in PA]

There is no need to remove anything to beed the clutch, you use a short box wrench and get to it from the driver's rear wheel well. 30 sec. job at best........

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

There is no need to remove anything to beed the clutch, you use a short box wrench and get to it from the driver's rear wheel well. 30 sec. job at best........

It's been awhile since I did mine---so it's probably due to be done!---but I recall this being a difficult reach to accomplish as well, similar to Steve Tinker's experience. Dunno if he (like me) lacks a lift, but maybe that's what makes all the difference between a challenge to get to vs not that bad...

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Frodo

It's been awhile since I did mine---so it's probably due to be done!---but I recall this being a difficult reach to accomplish as well, similar to Steve Tinker's experience. Dunno if he (like me) lacks a lift, but maybe that's what makes all the difference between a challenge to get to vs not that bad...

I really don't see what the problem is; here is a 986, on jack stands, looking in from the rear of the driver's side wheel well, the bleeder is marked with an arrow:



I really helps to have a short (3 1/2 inch long) double box wrench to open it as there is not much room to swing the tool, but otherwise it is pretty straight foward.....

[Frodo]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

I really don't see what the problem is; here is a 986, on jack stands, looking in from the rear of the driver's side wheel well, the bleeder is marked with an arrow:



I really helps to have a short (31/2 inch long) double box wrench to open it as there is not much room to swing the tool, but otherwise it is prett straight foward.....

You're no doubt right on this. I've not done a ton of wrenching (none prior to getting the Box), but I have figured out a few things. One is the (seemingly) simple fact that if it's unusually difficult or uncomfortable getting to something, try moving yourself and going at it from an entirely different direction/angle. Maybe I just never did figure out the right approach the day I was bleeding the clutch!

[1olddude]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

There is no need to remove anything to beed the clutch, you use a short box wrench and get to it from the driver's rear wheel well. 30 sec. job at best........

See, this is what makes this the best Porsche forum around. Thanks for the tip.

[robdelorenzo]

I am about to do a brake fluid flush and want to flush the clutch as well.
I have had the car over a year now and don't know the condition of the fluid.
What size "Short stubby" wrench is needed?
Thanks!

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

What size "Short stubby" wrench is needed?
Thanks!

Rob, I believe that you will require a 11 mm wrench.

[robdelorenzo]

Great.
Thank you Gilles.
I am looking forward to this project - new rotors, pads, hardware, screws, bolts, fluid, the works!
I just rolled over 160k and still going strong.

[robdelorenzo]

Ok Gang, one more question before I do my first brake job on my 02 Base.
I have bought everything under the sun except some type of anti-squeal product.
Since I bought new dampers for the pistons, do I need to use some type of anti-squeal product on the back of the brake pads like I used to on The American Cars that I have owned?
I'm used to coating the back of the brake pads with that orange goop and I am wondering if I need something similar for this job.
As always, thanks!

[Pdwight]

Originally Posted by robdelorenzo

Ok Gang, one more question before I do my first brake job on my 02 Base.
I have bought everything under the sun except some type of anti-squeal product.
Since I bought new dampers for the pistons, do I need to use some type of anti-squeal product on the back of the brake pads like I used to on The American Cars that I have owned?
I'm used to coating the back of the brake pads with that orange goop and I am wondering if I need something similar for this job.
As always, thanks!

I had a sequel that I could not get rid of and with only 7 K miles on the pads. I purchased new pads and shims (buffers) for all 4 wheels, I found that the screws in the shims were loose and causing the squeal...the new shims screws were also not tight at all. I used locktite on the screws in the new shims and did the complete brake job....quiet as a church mouse after a year