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Old 07-20-2018, 04:33 PM   #1
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Just saw your post about Rennline pedals and I've been thinking about getting them because I've been frustrated trying to bend my foot, leg, ankle, and butt to heel and tow. Are the pedals a pain to install (in my hands a screwdriver is a blunt instrument).

Larry (The Bald Eagle)
Hi Larry, +1 on everything Burg Boxster said. In addition, my brake pedal wasn’t totally flat, it had a high spot top to bottom down the center. I applied a strip of 3m VHB automotive tape on each side of center then made sure to alternate tighting the self locking nuts. This way I was able to ensure the pedal was level and tight.

The pedals look great but the true benefit is how easy it is to now heel and toe. Night and day difference from stock. My downshifts almost sound as good as my wife’s s5 DCS gearbox Also the Rennline are not as slick as my OEMs, my foot stays were I put it.

I’ve installed a few sets of these across the years, so I had prior experience. Take your time and ensure the alignment is the way you want it. Test fit and mark the mounting holes for drilling with a silver paint pen or marks-a-lot, then test fit again. Be sure the screw has enough clearance side to side on the rear of the pedal so you can correctly install the locking nut. The Rennline brake and clutch pedals are a little larger that the bare pad plates, so try to keep both sides with the same overlap. Some people like to brace the pedals from behind to keep them from depressing during the drilling.

That’s about all I can think of. All of these installs go a little differently, even on the same model car
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#317 550 Spyder Anniversary Edition 2004 Boxster S, 3.8L Flat Six Innovations engine, PSS9s, etc, etc . . .
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Old 07-21-2018, 07:53 AM   #2
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Is there any functional advantage, other than cosmetic, to getting the brake and clutch pedals?

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Old 07-21-2018, 10:10 AM   #3
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Is there any functional advantage, other than cosmetic, to getting the brake and clutch pedals?

Larry (the Bald Eagle)
For me there definitely was. The rubber dots are grippy so your foot stays where you put it, the pedal contour more naturally matches the pedal pivot when depressing the pedal, the pedal surface area is slightly larger and the pedal shape is better. YMMV because these are subjective things.

Also, just to note that these pedals (with the accelerator extensions) may not be suitable for drivers who do not have experience with closely spaced pedals. If others drive your car, be sure to point out the pedal configuration. We don’t want any cases of ‘unintended acceleration’
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#317 550 Spyder Anniversary Edition 2004 Boxster S, 3.8L Flat Six Innovations engine, PSS9s, etc, etc . . .
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Old 07-22-2018, 06:05 AM   #4
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Your comments are much appreciated oldcarguy (from another oldcarguy who first learned to heel and toe on my 1960 Austin Healy Sprite).

Larry (the Bald Eagle)
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Old 07-22-2018, 08:08 AM   #5
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Your comments are much appreciated oldcarguy (from another oldcarguy who first learned to heel and toe on my 1960 Austin Healy Sprite).

Larry (the Bald Eagle)
A 1960 Austin Healey Sprite was my first car and the one l learned to drive a manual on in 1973! My second car was a 1960 Austin Healey 3000. I still can’t heel and toe under anything close to maximum braking! But I double clutch out of habit!
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Old 07-22-2018, 09:29 AM   #6
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Tracked down a brake dragging problem to front, passenger side caliper sticking and pistons hanging up. Ordered up seals, dustboots, and stainless brake line kit from Zeckhausen Racing.
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