What did you do with/to your Boxster today?

[particlewave]

The black crud? It's definitely not oily or greasy, just dry dust (clutch material?). This clutch was completely toast and that dust was all over on the drivers side.
I'll take a closer look to be sure. Axle boots are not split or deteriorated.

[911monty]

Yeah that inside shaft cover being oily is what I noticed. Look at the cover on that side of the trans. I'll bet it is oily behind the output shaft.

Link to my thread and pic of the seal along with a Transmission Service manual in PDF.
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/62312-help-identifying-transmission-axle-flange.html

PS Hadn't even considered that the clutch friction material sticking to the gear oil might be the reason the seal went out, but zooming in it does appear to have the black dust in the seal.....

[911monty]

Here is a pic of my axle. Before I changed the seal.
Also could you post a pic of your original clutch disk for comparison to the new "upgraded" clutch disk? It appears the new disk has quite a bit more friction material than the original disk. Might have to consider the additional rotating mass when I change mine.

[gomarlins3]

Put my snow wheels and tires on this week.

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by 911monty

Hey PW. Looking at your pics it appears that your driver side axle shaft has some gear oil on it along with the crossmember. Mine looked just like that and I could smell the gear oil burning on the exhaust. It would be real easy to change that trans output shaft seal before you put everything back together. Of course it can also be done later.

Good eye. It was a very light misting from a bad output shaft seal combined with possibly clutch disc material (that stuff was everywhere) or just standard engine/road gunk.

Originally Posted by 911monty

Here is a pic of my axle. Before I changed the seal.
Also could you post a pic of your original clutch disk for comparison to the new "upgraded" clutch disk? It appears the new disk has quite a bit more friction material than the original disk. Might have to consider the additional rotating mass when I change mine.

It was all the way down into the rivets. I'm sure it was original to the car. It measures exactly 5mm overall.

[PR61]

Particlewave, how high did you get your car off the floor to get the transmission out, say at the jack stands?
Thanks!

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by PR61

Particlewave, how high did you get your car off the floor to get the transmission out, say at the jack stands?
Thanks!

16" from the floor to the jack points with a 3.7" low profile transmission jack. It came out with plenty of wiggle room. If you took the rear bumper off, you wouldn't even need it that high, but it does help when crawling around under there. After I got the muffler out, I could actually sit under the car cross-legged with my head where the muffler was. With the trans out, I could sit to work on the clutch.

Not nearly as high as I've read others say it needs to be.

[PR61]

Originally Posted by particlewave

16" from the floor to the jack points with a 3.7" low profile transmission jack. It came out with plenty of wiggle room. If you took the rear bumper off, you wouldn't even need it that high, but it does help when crawling around under there. After I got the muffler out, I could actually sit under the car cross-legged with my head where the muffler was. With the trans out, I could sit to work on the clutch.

Not nearly as high as I've read others say it needs to be.

Thanks, for the measurement info!

[billh1963]

Did the "horn fix" using the #31 o-rings on my '98 Boxster. Took my time and still finished in under 30 minutes. Wish all fixes were that easy! Earlier this week replaced my 13 year old tires with new Michelin Pilots. What a difference.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by particlewave

16" from the floor to the jack points with a 3.7" low profile transmission jack. It came out with plenty of wiggle room. If you took the rear bumper off, you wouldn't even need it that high, but it does help when crawling around under there. After I got the muffler out, I could actually sit under the car cross-legged with my head where the muffler was. With the trans out, I could sit to work on the clutch.

Not nearly as high as I've read others say it needs to be.

I did the same job yesterday as well, but this time I used as JFP's suggestion to use guiding hex bolts with their heads cut off, well.. it went pretty smooth, it works very well along with the transmission jack, thanks JFP!

PS: I am not sure about the height (picture), but today I have a very sore neck, and no not at all from the transmission, but by bolting the slave to the transmission... now, just waiting for the coilovers to arrive for me to be back on the road

[Anker]

Made an appointment to have her serviced and winterized, and then she goes into hibernation - in the attached garage. The tent is for the poor Subary Forester that is my daily driver.



Anker

[aczyzewski]

I've had a 986-504-893-00 (Side Cover Seal) held on by tape for awhile after an "event." Decided to pop the 986-504-393-00 (Side Cover) off and see what I could do. Cleaned it up and fixed one of the rubber nibs holding it in place that was sheared off but still present. Push pins are taking care of two other missing nibs (I know, I'm a genius).

Moved to the other side and found that the side cover seal was missing altogether (no wonder the aerodynamics seemed off!). Popped the Side Cover off, removed 6 grams of dirt (sprung mass), cleaned it, replaced and ready to see what the weight reduction will do to my power to weight ratio!

[BoxsterSteve]

Originally Posted by Anker

The tent is for the poor Subaru Forester that is my daily driver.

Anker

Your DD Forester has a tent?
Mine's jealous. It doesn't get to go inside unless something needs fixing. Just welded up the noisy resonator pipe on mine on the weekend. Ah, the sound of silence!

[particlewave]

Took her for a test drive today after my clutch job last week. I'm happy to say that everything is as it should be. Clutch action is smooth and lighter than before, most likely due to everything being clean and freshly lubed.
I had this obnoxious squeak when the pedal was pressed before the job, but it's now gone. Clutch grabs nice and solid (almost killed it the first few times because I'm not used to it).

Easy and fun job! I highly recommend it!

[rick3000]

Today, I ripped out my old iPod Aux connection and everything connected to the Phone Connector for power, and completely re-wired the entire thing. The iPod connection was my first modification to my 986, and I've learned a ton since then. I used a lot of electrical tape the first time around, this time everything is much more polished with heat shrink tubing.

I was also able to remove the second cigarette lighter plug I had under the dash, and hardwire my new iPhone connection in, which I am hoping will be more future-proof, as it provides power and audio to a female USB. I can now plug in any device (versus only having one device specific connector) with a USB cable, and get power and audio. If anyone is interested, I used the PAC IS3301.

[alm001]

I refilled a tire that had gotten low on mine, and made sure the battery tender was good.
I also got the snowblower up from the basement.

[MN 986]

Well, this was actually last week. We have had a much warmer than normal Fall in MN and I got a last ride in on Wednesday, then on Thursday the cold and snow started. End of season oil change, then hibernation begins. I cannot wait for Spring!!

[boxxster]

What's your suspension setup? And are you running spacers with the wheels? Looks good!

[MN 986]

Thanks! At around 100k miles I upgraded to the ROW M030 suspension. Wheels are 18" 911 size (don't recall offsets), no spacers. Made a big difference in filling out the wheel wells.

[particlewave]

Switched out my scratched gold airbag crest for a silver one. Silver hood crest is on the way.



Old scratched crest:


New crest:


Done right:



Thanks again for the replacement crest, Woody!!!