05-31-2012, 12:41 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 874
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Oil change, axle stands and gradient
If I'm doing an oil change at home, am I OK to only jack the rear up and do it with the resulting gradient or does the car need to be pretty level to drain properly?
Thanks
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Manual '00 3.2 S Arctic Silver
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05-31-2012, 01:28 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Seattle
Posts: 735
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All of the instructions I have seen say the car must be level to drain properly. You also need to wait 30 minutes for it to drain completely.
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2000S Ocean Blue Metallic- 116K
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05-31-2012, 01:40 PM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 874
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Yeah, I always leave it to drain for an hour or two. Didn't think I'd get away without having it level, to be honest.
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Manual '00 3.2 S Arctic Silver
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05-31-2012, 03:02 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Carlos, CA 94070
Posts: 1,450
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how about you do us all a favor and do the following experiment:
step 1: Jack up only the rear and drain the oil for let's say 30 min
step 2: Now jack up the front and get the car level and see if there's enough oil coming out (that was "trapped") to make a call if it's worth having the car level
I think we all would like to know that
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I still wave at Boxsters, but they no longer wave back :-(
2002 Boxster S "Violet" (sold but not forgotten)
2009 Carrera 4S "Kelsey" (current ride)
2015 FIAT 500e "Nikki" my commuter car
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05-31-2012, 03:51 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Miami florida
Posts: 1,591
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Just jack up the rear end, remove the drain plug, then lower the car back to the ground and all the oil will drain out.
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Current car
2000 Boxster 2.7l red/black
Previous cars
1973 Opel Manta
1969(?) Fiat 850 Convertible
1979 Lancia Beta Coupe
1981 Alfa Romeo GTV 6
1985 Alfa Romeo Graduate
1985 Porsche 944
1989 Porsche 944
1981 Triumph TR7
1989 (?) Alfa Romeo Milano
1993 Saab 9000
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05-31-2012, 04:28 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: In the garage...
Posts: 1,731
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Please don't get under the car if it's only on a jack... use properly rated jack stands b/c you never know when a hydraulic jack WILL fail.
Then just follow san resho's tip - it's the easiest way w/o a lift. Also, be careful to not drop your drain plug into the catch pan (unless you have a separating grate) and oh yeah, make sure your catch container can hold at least 10 quarts/liters b/c you'll never get the drain plug back in should it over flow
Good luck
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05-31-2012, 06:44 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Nampa, ID.
Posts: 488
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Come on guys. We don't need to be this anal. Jacked up, lifted, or just on ramps. What comes out is enough. A ten minute drain is more than adequate. I do mine on ramps. I still have to put 9+ quarts in it to fill it.
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2000 Boxster S
And then there are the Motorcycles.
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05-31-2012, 06:55 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: California
Posts: 1,859
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I'm with Idaho Red on this. Check the oil level while the car is level and don't over-fill... I believe over filling with oil is one of the leading causes to AOS failure.
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Jäger
300K Mile Club
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06-01-2012, 04:59 AM
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#9
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recycledsixtie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Edmonton Canada
Posts: 824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Idaho Red Rocket 3
Come on guys. We don't need to be this anal. Jacked up, lifted, or just on ramps. What comes out is enough. A ten minute drain is more than adequate. I do mine on ramps. I still have to put 9+ quarts in it to fill it.
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I can identify with u Idaho Red because I had to put a new IMS Guardian pigtail drain plug in and had just bought some Canadian Tire ramps(it says on the box it can takes 6000 lb load). My garage was going to charge me $140Can. to put the plug in. Pelican Parts Boxster 101 book was a big help. Of course I got some oil on the garage floor but I lost about 2 qts. removing standard plug, and juggling around getting the crush ring off the old plug and putting it on the new one. As regards doing an oil change which I dont need yet, it is good to know that only a few ounces of oil is left if u drain oil while the rear wheels being on a ramp. However jack stands may be in my future. It is good to know that there are non anal people around like yourself!:dance::dance::dance:  I thank u all for the info.
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06-01-2012, 09:24 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Nor.Cal
Posts: 131
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Oil Change
When I did mine I only jack up the driver side rear and while it was draining I lowered it even level to fully drain, put new oil filter and 9 quarts of oil, perfect fill right on the second notch of dipstick.
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2K Boxster White/Grey Int./Hardtop/TIP
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06-01-2012, 10:53 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winnipeg MB
Posts: 2,485
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"and juggling around getting the crush ring off the old plug and putting it on the new one."
You re-used the crush ring?
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'99 black 986
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06-01-2012, 03:00 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burg Boxster
Please don't get under the car if it's only on a jack... use properly rated jack stands b/c you never know when a hydraulic jack WILL fail.
Then just follow san resho's tip - it's the easiest way w/o a lift. Also, be careful to not drop your drain plug into the catch pan (unless you have a separating grate) and oh yeah, make sure your catch container can hold at least 10 quarts/liters b/c you'll never get the drain plug back in should it over flow
Good luck 
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Thanks Burg, I have a full set of stands - though two of them are at my parent's house, which is part of the reason for the query.
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Manual '00 3.2 S Arctic Silver
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05-31-2012, 09:58 PM
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#13
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Certified Boxster Addict
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 7,669
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On almost every job there are corners that can be cut to make things easier without sacrificing much and raising only the rear is one of them. But its best if the car is level.
And all you need is several mins to drain. After that there's nothing more than a few ounces left in the pan at most (as proven when I dropped my oil pan to install a racing baffle and hardly any oil was left in there).
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