What up with my rims?

[Bala]

Taking the rims off for the brake pad change was easy for 2 wheels (one front and one back). The other two had to be pried out using a short crow bar (from the inside). The last one had so much trouble getting back in as well. I noticed metal ridges on the inside center of the rim. Had to force the rim in and use the air scoket to tuns the lugs repeatedly to push the rim flush.

Am I doing something wrong? Is there a right way to do it?

[MaxD]

First off you can't be doing any thing wrong just trying to take your wheels off. Hubcentric wheels should have reasonably tight tolerances, obviously two have less than the others.

I have a set of Fikse's that are are a pain to get off. You have to really rock them back and forth to get them off the hub.

One thing I do use on the interface between the wheel and the hub is a very thin coat of Wurth LM 508 anti seize. If you use spacers this really helps getting them off.

If you have a ridge that is making the rim too tight use a 220 or higher emery paper to make it smooth.

Again the wheel interface should be tight but not irremovable.

Max

[Hank@Hanksville]

The wheels do fit snugly onto the hub. When I reinstalled my wheels after getting them back from the powdercoater, the coating was enough to give the hub an interference fit. It easily chipped off (only the inside, thankfully not the visible portion!) when I tightened the lugs.

[thstone]

+1 on using a very light coat of anti-seize paste on the hub avoid any corrosion that might build up over time and thereby easing removal.

Also, be sure to get the wheel flush to the hub when installing - otherwise the wheel will loosen up as you drive and make a clunking noise from wobbling around (ask me how I know).

[tonycarreon]

bala: did your car come with the spare and toolkit?

the toolkit should contain a small metal "spike" with an eye hole in one end and threads on the other.

when removing the first bolt on the car, thread the spike into the newly opened hole. this will make putting the tire back on much easier.

(sorry if you already knew that)

[Bala]

Originally Posted by tonycarreon

bala: did your car come with the spare and toolkit?

the toolkit should contain a small metal "spike" with an eye hole in one end and threads on the other.

when removing the first bolt on the car, thread the spike into the newly opened hole. this will make putting the tire back on much easier.

(sorry if you already knew that)

I do have that and use it. The problem is not that lock lug but thre trying to fit the wheel itself onto the hub.

[Bala]

Originally Posted by MaxD

First off you can't be doing any thing wrong just trying to take your wheels off. Hubcentric wheels should have reasonably tight tolerances, obviously two have less than the others.

I have a set of Fikse's that are are a pain to get off. You have to really rock them back and forth to get them off the hub.

One thing I do use on the interface between the wheel and the hub is a very thin coat of Wurth LM 508 anti seize. If you use spacers this really helps getting them off.

If you have a ridge that is making the rim too tight use a 220 or higher emery paper to make it smooth.

Again the wheel interface should be tight but not irremovable.

Max

Will definitely put in the anti sieze and try the emory paper suggestion. If i have a flat far from homw there is no way i can use the tolls in the car to take off the wheel and put the spare. i might have to carry the short crowbar!

[stephen wilson]

Are these factory rims? They should no be that tight, either the tolerances on the wheel are off ( or the wheel coating, as Hank mentioned), or there is corrosion on the hub pilot.

[Bala]

Maybe the ridge on some wheels are more than others? They are factory rims from what I can tell. I'm going to take it out and post some pics. Something doesn't seem right.