1st time using clay bar

[Perfectlap]

[QUOTE=TECH986ART]Thanks guys!!! I truly thank all for the fast response!! I learned somthing new again.

Should I follow with a cleaner paint cleaner, then polish, and finally some NXT tech wax? For best results, or can I just jump to the final wax stage?[/QUOTE]

if you love your baby (reminds me of that scene in Harold and Kumar) you should invest in a Porter Cable orbital polisher. I have the popular 7424 which I got from Harbor Freight for $100 during a sale. You'll need a flexible velcro backing plate and a polishing pad(polishes..duh) and finishing pad(waxes and sealants).

as to after claying,
for German paints the Einzett or 1Z line is very popular among Porsche owners. I would give their paint polish a shot either manually or with the Porter Cable orbital polisher, Amazing results in a very short time. The orbital action will prevent inadvertent stripping of the clear coat. German paints are very soft! (actually I think they are illegal here in America, not eco friendly).

I swear by Klasse All in One(cleaning and polishing) and Klasse Sealant Glaze(SG).
After at least 10 coats of Klasse SG (24 hours curing time between coats) I top off with S100 once a month, which is the same as P21S but 1/3 the price.
THe Klasse two step I only do 2 or three times a year.

If your car is black I would try the NXT as a quick detailer but I'm not sure if you can use that over a natural/bio product like Carnauba.
I use Klasse AIO, NXT and Rejex on my wheels, including the barrel of the wheel.

p.s. I highly recommend the Sonus Waffle weave towels with the tufted loop ends.
Microfiber is striclty for interiors on my car. For final buffing you should use something like Sonus Concours Buffing towel. Much of a paints swirling not caused in washing process occurs when owners buff with a polishing towel.

Here's a pic of 12 coats of the Klasse SG with my old Black Car
(this car was never garaged or repainted in ten years).

[jiggysubman]

call me ignorant, but what exactly does using clay do?

[Adam]

It removes surface contaminates from your paint.

[Perfectlap]

yes you can wash your car 4 times in a row and ti won't remove that film that slides right off after one soapy pass of the clay bar.
If you have ever washed and dried your car and imediatly followed with applying wax and noticed that the foam pad was dirty after removing the wax,
well you needed to clay. And you probably micro marred the paint.

[Stryke]

Quick rundown for those not in the know.

Clay is a synthetic polymer which is very smooth and sticky. As we drive the metallic brake dust that gets all over our wheels also gets all over the road. This brake dust is kicked up by cars in front of us and as hot micro razor blades is lodged into the clear coat (top layer of paint) of our cars. This is why when you wash the car and then wax it the wax pad is dirty even though you think the car is clean. The only way to remove these particles is to pull them out. In past years people used paint cleaners which was hard work. Today we use a clay bar. If left untreated these brake dust and atmospheric fallout can oxidize (rust) and this is why you see little orange dots on the car, especially visible on white paint. These rusted particles act to lift the clear coat and eventually cause dull and peeling paint. We need to remove them and seal the paint with a good wax.

Often when these particles are removed we are left with uneven surfaces in the clear coat. They can be permanently fixed with a polish which acts to remove and even out the surface or with a glaze which simply temporarily fills the void. Below is a half ass attempt at illustrating this. Take the zip lock test. Wash your car and then place your hand inside a zip lock bag and run it across your hood. If you feel it's grainy you need to clay. Paint surface should feel like silk.

[Lux]

Why mess with vinegar and its stink? Just wash your car with Dawn and it'll strip the wax right off. This is what Sal of Zaino fame recommends.

Clay, then polish, then protect. NXT is a protectant with some fillers. It does a nice job of hiding light swirls. But getting rid of the swirls is the best solution. BTW, don't bother trying to get rid of swirls by hand. Go PC or don't even bother. If you don't want to invest in a PC, then get a professional detail job and you can "maintain" the appearance with a hand polish/wax afterwards.


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[Stryke]

Go ahead with Dawn on your car, not mine!

[TECH986ART]

After reading all the great tips (special thanks to Stryke), got off work earlier, bought the Clay bar kit with quick detailer spray, did the whole car... Boy my paint is smooth as silk now!!! This stuff really works, before I would have these stuborn sand type residue stuck on the surface, and could never wash out, by claying the car not only removes it, and it shines it as well!

I followed the whole Maguire's detailing line Stage 1(clearner), stage 2(polish), stage 3 (poorboy sealent), and stage 4 (NXT generation Tech wax). Amazing results!!!

I saved alot of time by using a Simoniz 4" Random orbitor to apply all types of solutions, bought extra foam pads for different stages. It did a great job! Evenly distributed the solutions, and the Orbit type machine cannot create any burn marks since its not powerful enough to generate heat and burn, and also the nature of the rotation is in "orbit" vs "Rotary".
Great product for saving time! It was on sale at Canadian tire for CA$49.99

Unfortunately I only had the chance to do the hood and the front fenders, will definetely do the whole car this weekend..

I Highly recommend anyone whom is a "noob" like me that havn't tried Clay bar, it's a MUST!!

Thanks again all for the tips and input!!!

[Lux]

Originally Posted by Stryke

Go ahead with Dawn on your car, not mine!

Save your .

I have used Dawn to strip the wax with NO issues...on all my black cars for years. My 9 year old M3 looked like it just rolled out from the factory. A million others have done the same thing. There's plenty of professional detailers on autopia and I've never heard of Dawn hazing or damaging clearcoat.

How many times do you need to strip the wax off? Once a year tops? Unless you're constantly trying new wax there's no need to strip off the old wax. And it's no more harsh than using vinegar (which is acidic) or laquer thinner like you mentioned.

[Porschekid]

Is there a brand of orbital buffer that anyone recommends? Seems like they can't all be great if you can find some for $10-$15. Are they any better or worse than applying by hand? I would really love to find a time saver when doing an overhaul on my car. Also, wax as you dry spray... good for keeping the shine longer after every wash?

-thanks guys, great info

[BuffaloBoxster]

Anybody have suggestions for a product to get out light swirling on my black '01? Do it by hand? Buy a buffer?

[PDXBoxster]

This just has to be one of the best threads! So much info for everyone. I've learned so much and I have already clay barred my Box! Next time it will be silk!

I also bought the PC (it is in its box right now) and will be putting it to use first on my wife's Jaguar XK8 (why experiment on a Box when you have another "test" vehicle to use?). The Jag is a charcoal metal flake rag top that is just dying for some paint loving.

[PDXBoxster]

oh btw,
Stryke,
Your car pics now adorn my dual 24" LCD as two different background pics!

Awesome looking car dude!

[Perfectlap]

Originally Posted by PDXBoxster

I also bought the PC (it is in its box right now) and will be putting it to use first on my wife's Jaguar XK8 (why experiment on a Box when you have another "test" vehicle to use?). The Jag is a charcoal metal flake rag top that is just dying for some paint loving.

a word of advice:
ALWAYS HOLD THE PORTER CABLE BY THE HANDLE.

ask me how I know this

and wear an apron