Window regulator permanent fix for stretched cable

[embryoguy@mac.com]

was it hard to take off the door to access this cable?

[Dave S.]

Not too bad. I followed these instructions:

Boxster Projects | Power Window Motor Repair

[embryoguy@mac.com]

thanks Dave. any else try this mod? i called my local bike shop and going to pick up this brake cable piece tomm. im not very mechanically inclined though i did switch out the ignition switch

yeah my problem also, when opening the door, window does not completely go down so than i push glass down, shut it and it goes up tight.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

for now. before exit, i use button to lower the window slightly. when out, i use my key to turn the key to the left and it makes the window go up to seal. pain in the butt but ok for now.

[KRAM36]

Originally Posted by Dave S.

Not sure if this is the correct size or not, but it looks like it would work. You need to be sure to get a slotted one, so you can slip it over the cable:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Mountain-Lever-Adjusting-Barrel/dp/B000O5SR4W/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0B8CMN1NZESGVW7VVS13

Success using this piece on my 03 Boxster, but I could have used a bit more thread length. This part gave me just enough window movement for the window to clear.

Originally Posted by Dave S.

Not too bad. I followed these instructions:

Boxster Projects | Power Window Motor Repair

Following this guide I did not know what he was talking about when he says removed the C-shaped piece of plastic. This piece is what he is talking about.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

dave, how did you remove the green fact housing to keep the cable tension? just dremel it off? mine was intact.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

ok i tried it with the zip ties. no diff. the tension was def. a lot tighter but it didnt seem to make a diff. do you guys think i have a diff problem?

[Dave S.]

Originally Posted by embryoguy@mac.com

dave, how did you remove the green fact housing to keep the cable tension? just dremel it off? mine was intact.

The green end of the cable sleeve was intact on mine, but it didn't fit well with the barrel adjuster I was using, so I cut it off. I think I just used a plier-like cable cutter to break it up and get it off the cable.
If it fits into the barrel adjuster you are using, you might want to leave it on there.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

yeah thanks guys for your advice. i put it back together. yes window does not come down from the inside and outside. but if i push it down when im outside, and than close the door. it ll come back up. I'm thinking now it might be one of the sensors. but ill inquire in another thread. dave. so both your green adapters were intact also?

[embryoguy@mac.com]

Dave, mine looks exactly like yours but the cable insulation is too big to fit into my brake barrel. how did you figure out that it was the problem? my window issue seems exactly like that is wrong with others on this thread. so guess the question is, should i just go ahead and cut the green adapter and put on mine?

one thing i did notice was that the slimmer end of the green adapter slide into the metal housing. not sure if this is normal or not.

[Dave S.]

Originally Posted by embryoguy@mac.com

Dave, mine looks exactly like yours but the cable insulation is too big to fit into my brake barrel. how did you figure out that it was the problem? my window issue seems exactly like that is wrong with others on this thread. so guess the question is, should i just go ahead and cut the green adapter and put on mine?

one thing i did notice was that the slimmer end of the green adapter slide into the metal housing. not sure if this is normal or not.

Not only did my window not drop enough to clear the top, but if I rolled my window 1/2 way down and then lifted up on the glass, you could easily push it up and down at least a 1/2 inch with very little if any resistance. I found the cable to have excessive play and I don't remember if it had more slack when you lifted up the glass or pushed it down. I think it had the most slack when you lifted up the window a bit. With the slack in the cable I could pull the green end out of the corner piece that holds the corner roller at front corner at the bottom of the door. If you look at the last picture in my original post, I think you'll also see the adjustment I made where the cable goes into the bottom of the motor in the center of the door. I also had to clearance the metal piece in the corner to fit my barrel adapter. I did this by drilling it out slightly. I had to move the cable out of the way to do that of course, but still was able to do all that without removing the regulator from the door.

[embryoguy@mac.com]

thanks Dave, ill try those things this week.