Seized Brake Caliper Mounting Bolt

[Steve Tinker]

Yes - the guys in the UK (and anywhere else the weather is bad) have a real problem with the bolts corroding & snapping in the alloy housing....
After you remove the old bolt stub, remember to use anti-sieze lubricant paste on the threads of the new bolts - it will make future removal a lot easier.

[Bradster]

Update:

After heating the mounting bolt, it turned with a pipe wrench about a turn and then sheared off again. There was more bolt to grab on to, so I reheated the bolt and turned it some more with the pipe wrench and a pipe. There is no rust or corrosion evident. I assume that, with almost no bolt to grab, I will now have to drill the bolt out being careful not to destroy the threads inside the strut, although I suspect that they must already be ruined.

Never heard of a bolt that would break free, turn, and then shear off twice more. Its almost as if the bolt and the mounting hole have merged and welded together on their own. I have owned a lot of cars and never seen anything like this. (Wish I had left the rotor on.) I believe I am the first to remove the mounting bolts.

Anyway, I just thought I would re-post to see if anyone had any other ideas. I am at a loss at his point. Replacing the strut over a mounting bolt seems like a bad dream. Obviously, even if I get the bolt out, the internal threads likely will be shot.

As always, thanks.

Bradster.

[stephen wilson]

If you have access to a welder ( or someone with one ) , weld a nut or bolt to the stub thats left. It gives you something to grab, and heats the joint at the same time. It's worked for me.

[insite]

bradster -

sorry to say it, but you'll likely never get the bolt out. the aluminum is galled & the threads are destroyed at this point. the safest / easiest bet is to source an upright from a wrecked car. they can be had on the cheap.

by the time you could even devise & implement a solution with your current upright, you will have spent more time & almost as much money as if you'd just replaced the upright.

[ppbon]

... was able to successfully remove the broken bolt by drilling it out.
I use successively larger LEFT-HAND drill bits.
Grainger has a nice set. They are expensive, though.
The trick is to start completely centered, so you'll need to carefully center-punch the broken bolt. You may need to file a flat spot if it's crooked.
Also, soak overnight with PB Blaster.
Once you start to see the threads, use a sharp pick and pick out the remnants.
Sometimes the action of the PB Blaster and the use of the left-handed bits will remove the broken bolt.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

[hawkdriver]

Had the same thing happen, my buddy and I tried it all...PB Blaster, heat and when after 7 hours he broke 3 easy outs(heavy duty aircraft one) I was worried. The next day he went at it again with an easy out and various bits until success. I bought a heli-coil kit from a local auto parts store used one insert and sold the kit on ebay to recoup my money (kit was 90.00). No problems since, and I coated the bolts with anti-seize on the way back in!

[Bradster]

Thanks all. Ended up buying a titanium pilot bit at Home Depot ($5.00), centered it, and using increasingly larger bits, removed the old bolt. Will have to use a helicoil though as the threads are now destroyed. Crazy that a 30 second job became an expensive 7 hour ordeal. Makes no sense.

Anyway, and as always, thanks for he suggestions and support.

Bradster