05-09-2010, 08:23 AM
|
#1
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 63
|
Noise after Upper Rear Track Arm Replacement
I replaced my upper rear track arms, that were causing a clunk, with adjustable arms from Hardrace on my 55K mile 2003 boxster. The clunk is gone and the ride is much stiffer. Now I have a rattle that is audible when going over bumps at speeds under 25 mph. The rattle occurs from each rear wheel and appears to come from behind either the passenger or drivers head depending on which wheel is hitting the bump. I think the noise is being transmitted up by the shocks. Has anyone had such a problem after changing to the stiffer track arms? Any assistance would be appreciated.
|
|
|
05-09-2010, 04:29 PM
|
#2
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: San Carlos, CA 94070
Posts: 1,450
|
did you replace them with "race" arms, which have no nylon bushings but metal bushings. In this case the noise would be normal
__________________
I still wave at Boxsters, but they no longer wave back :-(
2002 Boxster S "Violet" (sold but not forgotten)
2009 Carrera 4S "Kelsey" (current ride)
2015 FIAT 500e "Nikki" my commuter car
|
|
|
05-09-2010, 07:09 PM
|
#3
|
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: California
Posts: 713
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonflyoh
I replaced my upper rear track arms, that were causing a clunk, with adjustable arms from Hardrace on my 55K mile 2003 boxster. The clunk is gone and the ride is much stiffer. Now I have a rattle that is audible when going over bumps at speeds under 25 mph. The rattle occurs from each rear wheel and appears to come from behind either the passenger or drivers head depending on which wheel is hitting the bump. I think the noise is being transmitted up by the shocks. Has anyone had such a problem after changing to the stiffer track arms? Any assistance would be appreciated.
|
Those arms shouldn't really make that much of a noticeable change as to what you're describing.
Double check that you have tightened down the locking nuts properly on the adjustable ends, and that they're not touching anything else.
__________________
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3420/...90927559_o.jpg
Some stuff for sale: M030 S 24mm front sway bar, M030 base 19.6mm rear sway bar, 996 GT3 OEM Porsche Motorsport front strut mounts monoball "camber plates"
WTB: looking for some 5-7mm spacers with extended bolts
|
|
|
05-09-2010, 11:58 PM
|
#4
|
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 73
|
Sounds like the same problem on mine??
I was told by Zentrum that it is the "Lower Control Arm Bushes" that are the cause, they crack or corrode and will rattle like mad, especially if you drive over cobbles. It should not cause any handling issues though.
I was also told that you can't physically see the problem on the bushes and it only manifests when assembled and the car is moving.
http://www.hartech.org/parts.html do a £90 replacement part which I will try someday otherwise its a £200 part if going original.
Was told to get both rear sides done as they often go together.
|
|
|
05-10-2010, 12:00 PM
|
#6
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 63
|
The part I replaced is index number 8 in the attached drawing. I was thinking I might hear from someone that actually replaced their arms with the adjustable arms and hear what sort of experience they had. I am thinking RandallNeighbour may be on to something with the slippery slope. RandallNeighbour are you saying that index 17 may be causing the noise?
|
|
|
05-10-2010, 01:34 PM
|
#7
|
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Florida
Posts: 529
|
Many times the rattle comes from...
... worn drop links.
If you can manually twist the droplinks with the car on its wheels, they're probably toast.
Good droplinks should be very difficult to move by hand because the joints are tight. After the joints wear they can generate a loud rattle when going over bricks, pavers, etc.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro
__________________
Racecar spelled backwards is: Racecar!
|
|
|
05-10-2010, 02:06 PM
|
#8
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,243
|
Dragonfly, ignore what I wrote above. I didn't realize you bought an adjustable trailing arm (#8)... I though you'd replaced #17 with an adjustable unit (that's what I did).
Sorry about that.
Do test your drop links according to Pedro's advice. That's a good word from him.
Last edited by RandallNeighbour; 05-10-2010 at 02:11 PM.
|
|
|
05-11-2010, 07:25 AM
|
#9
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 63
|
Drop Links
Thanks for the help.
I was able to move the drop links, with WOW, and using gloves. Not a lot of motion but enough that I will replace them. I found them on E-bay,(Deutsche has a pair of drop links for $67), Pelican, and requested pricing from Sunset. I shall replace the torsion bar bushings at the same time.
I shall post the results.
|
|
|
05-11-2010, 08:01 AM
|
#10
|
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 7,243
|
Dragonfly, read this carefully:
RUN AWAY FROM DEUTSCHE PARTS ON EBAY.
Their stuff, especially their drop links, are total crap. I know this from repeated personal experience. Learn from my failures.
Buy factory parts unless you have $$$ to spend per corner for Tarrett Engineering fully adjustable ones.
Check with Sunset Imports in Oregon. They sell at 10% over their hard cost plus shipping. Sometime they are a LOT cheaper than anyone else.
|
|
|
05-11-2010, 08:59 AM
|
#11
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 63
|
RandallNeighbour,
Thanks for the warning. After I posted my comment I did some searching on DEUTSCHE and decided they were off my list. I read some of your comments as well as from owners of several different models of automobiles and they were all in agreement with your assessment. I shall see what Sunset comes up with. Thanks again.
|
|
|
05-11-2010, 01:43 PM
|
#12
|
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: nj
Posts: 389
|
|
|
|
05-11-2010, 08:00 PM
|
#13
|
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 308
|
After reading this thread, I think my car needs drop link replaced.
has anyone looked into Powergrid.inc adjustable drop links?
|
|
|
09-17-2010, 09:40 AM
|
#14
|
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 63
|
After changing the drop links and the track control arms, # 9 on the drawing in a previous post, all is well. Just need to get a four wheel alignment. The ball joints on the track control arm were sloppy loose. Now I hear a couple of other rattles that will require some looking after. Thanks for the support.
|
|
|
09-17-2010, 10:22 AM
|
#15
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 998
|
Whoa! so THAT is what is making the rattling! I have just been living with it. Now I know what to replace, thank you gents!
__________________
kabel
Orlando - 99 BMW M Coupe (autocross toy), '11 Mazdaspeed 3 (dog hauler), '99 10AE Miata (the new daily driver)
|
|
|
10-25-2010, 05:06 AM
|
#16
|
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 998
|
Replaced all my end links, front and back. I am enjoying a much quieter ride these days. Though now I can hear that the tires are nearing the end of their life... fix one thing only to discover something else
__________________
kabel
Orlando - 99 BMW M Coupe (autocross toy), '11 Mazdaspeed 3 (dog hauler), '99 10AE Miata (the new daily driver)
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is On
|
|
|
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 06:49 PM.
| |