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Old 05-07-2010, 11:56 AM   #1
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Lol, I'd have just cleaned it first.
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:10 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARModen
Lol, I'd have just cleaned it first.
its okay..he "charged" the battery to your name
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:43 PM   #3
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its okay..he "charged" the battery to your name
So... of course. I changed the battery after autozone tested it, and put in a new one. It now starts and drives, albeit with some loss of power. I'm going to jack it tomorrow and pull a plug and see if I can get a clue as to what's going on...
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:32 AM   #4
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Update:

Some loss of power is a pretty consistent loss of power in every gear. It drives, but is slower to rev, and on the freeway cannot get past 65 MPH. I've parked it back in the driveway. It's got 92k and the original MAF.... I'm thinking that after looking at all the other high mileage cars on this forum, that could be the culprit?

J

No codes are being thrown right this moment, and the engine does make a backfiring noise if I gas it too hard to "overcome" the loss of power
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1999 Porsche Boxster 5 Spd
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Previous Toys:
2005 RX-8, RIP
1989 GTA, 5 Speed, Procharger Supercharger and 2 Core Intercooler, 1 3/4" headers, 3" Flomaster Exhaust, cat-delete, digital ignition, bigger fuel injectors
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:37 AM   #5
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BUMP.

Who says MAF is the likely culprit?

Jon
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1999 Porsche Boxster 5 Spd
Stock, with GAHH A5 Glass top.
Previous Toys:
2005 RX-8, RIP
1989 GTA, 5 Speed, Procharger Supercharger and 2 Core Intercooler, 1 3/4" headers, 3" Flomaster Exhaust, cat-delete, digital ignition, bigger fuel injectors
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:48 AM   #6
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Isn't the common test for a bad MAF to disconnect it...If the car runs better it's a bad MAF?
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Old 05-19-2010, 09:51 AM   #7
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with the money ya saved you can have the brakes fixed
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:37 AM   #8
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It's a good sign that the car is running now. It sounds you just have some bugs to work out. They are probably all or some of the following: bad MAF, dirty plugs, bad 02 sensors. The car is definitely going to start throwing codes soon which will help.

MAF:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Newby
Isn't the common test for a bad MAF to disconnect it...If the car runs better it's a bad MAF?
In this case he's probably already in the limp home mode. So disconnecting the MAF may have no effect. It may be the MAF and disconnecting it is a very easy check. If the car runs the same or better with it disconnected then it might be the MAF. The maf is a wire that is heated and measures air flow by how much cooling it receives. In english that means there's a little silver wire that gets dirty. If you pull the MAF out using a security Torx wrench and look at it edge on you'll see where the air flows through it. There should be a shiny wire that air flows across. More likely you'll find a wire that's covered at least partially in what looks like gray fuzz. You can clean the gray fuzz off with acetone (nail polish remover), isopropynol (rubbing alcohol) or electrical component cleaner from autozone. It should be nice and shiny again with no residue when you're done. See if that helps at performance.

O2 sensor

My brother had a Ford with an early computer controller. He had very similar symptoms as you. His O2 sensor rusted out of the exhaust and was dangling under the car. The computer thought the engine was running very lean because it was just seeing fresh air. I haven't touched the boxster ones yet, but most people sem to replace all of them at once. Now might be a good time to go back and look at those codes that you had initially and use them to narrow down your search.
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