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Old 01-21-2010, 04:06 PM   #21
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The procedure is called the classic "boxster chop". And don't drop your top if the temp is below 60. Otherwise it can crack.

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Old 01-21-2010, 04:11 PM   #22
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The vinyl window will fold in the middle. However, you should use the legendary 'chop.' Once the top is down half way karate chop the window (lightly) so it folds the rest of the way without any creases in it. If you get a crease the window can crack. Also, it has been recommended to me not to changing the position of the top below 40°, however I agree 60° is a much safer temperature, the vinyl hardens at low temps and makes a crack more likely.
This summer when it's 85° you will see just how much the temperature can affect the vinyl, it can get very soft in the summer. Which is great because you can drop the top at a stop light and not worrying about creases that much.
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Old 01-21-2010, 04:39 PM   #23
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Thanks for tips!
I guess I'll wait for 60 degrees to roll the top down.. as for 85° it never happens in Seattle

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Old 01-21-2010, 08:39 PM   #24
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Yeah it was like 55 when I dropped the top on carmax's car and it cracked.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:13 AM   #25
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you also want to find a designated area where you can throw something without breaking something in its path, such as busting your knuckles or breaking a nut or stripping a bolt and it pisses you off to no end, you will end up throwing a tool or object at some point.
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:05 AM   #26
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85° ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sasha055
Thanks for tips!
I guess I'll wait for 60 degrees to roll the top down.. as for 85° it never happens in Seattle

Thanks
Sasha
What do you mean, "as for 85° it never happens in Seattle".
I remember it hitting 90's in June, July, and August last summer, it was so hot, I had to put the top up and turn on the air conditioning. In fact, it hit 103 on July 29th. I thought I was in California visiting the relatives in Stockton.
How long have you lived in Seattle?
Opps, I forgot, it rains all the time here, so you never have a chance to put the top down.
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Old 01-25-2010, 08:52 AM   #27
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If you are a newbie at working on cars, there is one thing you need to learn, learn well, and use ALWAYS. That is how to properly jack up and support your car while you are working on it. DO NOT, EVER take this for granted.

I've been working on cars since I was a kid (helping my Dad), and have always had a healthy respect for properly jacking and supporting my cars. However, after years and years of doing it, I got a bit complacent about it. A few years ago, I did something a bit dodgy while supporting a car. I had all 4 wheels off the ground on jackstands, with a board supporting the rear end of the car. It turns out that the board was an inch or two too tall and it was really supporting the rear end of the car, and the jackstands were not. I was under the front of the car, and when I bumped the car, it fell off of the jackstands. Luckily for me, the front of the car did not fall off the jackstands, as I was under the front end. The car was damaged slightly from the impact, but more importantly, I will never forget how scary that was, or the sound of more than a ton of metal hitting concrete. Nobody would have survived being under there.

Now, I am extremely careful when working under my car, and I always take extra precautions when I can (like laying a wheel under the side of the car, just in case).

Learn from my mistake. DO NOT, EVER, be casual about jacking up and supporting your car when you are going to climb under it, even for something as simple as an oil change.

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