top, ignition switch and key probs related?

[rodsnhawgs]

I've done a search for this with no success. Also posted on RennTech with no response. I'm hoping someone here can lend some insight/experience. It's common knowledge ignition switch/cylinders are typical failure items on Boxsters. But are top up/down issues generally related?... Here's a description of the symptoms and what I've tried so far:

When I drop the lever on top of the windshield with hand brake on and door closed, both windows drop couple of inches and I verify the hand brake light in ON. There is no indication the top motor is trying to run as the top does nothing.

I've checked the B6 and D3 fuses, both are good.

Next, I tried diconnecting the battery for a couple of days thinking computer may need to reset itself...tried top again after recon and top worked. However, after moving about 1/2 down, I stopped it to do the karate chop thing to the back window...top would not continue. Discon again for about an hour; recon - no luck...top is stopped at 1/2 open/closed.

Second problem has now reared its head - and my guess is they are related:
Ignition felt "soft", even "spongy" when turning key to off and even past off postiton. Pulled key and got a message stating "ignition key not removed"...even got the key not removed chimes audible alarm... hmmm... key back in and restarted engine... tried top - no luck... off again w/ the "soft" feel... this time when I removed the key, it made a louder than normal disconnect "clunk". Upon trying to reinsert the key, the ignition cylinder will not allow the key to enter the slot.

So...now I'm locked out of the ignition and the top is stuck 1/2 open! Any insights??

[jwade]

Sounds like your switch is shot. Car does crazy stuff when the switch goes out.

There is info all over about this issue. Just do a search.

If you need anymore help on doing the switch replacement and/or which part to get, please ask. It's really not hard to do.

[rodsnhawgs]

thanks. That's what I'm thinking too. Wife told me last night that the window switches acted different on her one day, and the remote lock from the fob "beep" was intermittent as well.

I'll keep you posted and probably take pics as I do the repair (as I did on the RMS r&r).

[pk2]

Of all the thing that normally are checked and the fack your windows go down might indcaat they're alright but I don't know if the clutch switch is out of that loop (there are 5 switches that efect top opperation, 2 relays). this one is easy to check, it's down by the arm of the clutch opedal arm. Disconect the 2 wires and eun a wire betwenn the two. Try again.

As I think about it, the on switch that effects the windows is the top release latch switch...maybe.

You can also fish around the very back wall of the trunk, find the motor and it's two wires and with a baterycharger or baterry or whatever (12v), conect to the motors leads, reverse the leads and the motor will run in the opposite direction (top up and down). Now you know your motor works or not

If that works, move over to the left side of the trunk, remove the pannel and slide the relay tray out and you'll have to olcate the 2 top-motor relays (you need a diagram, I forget which they are). pull them out and smack thm ub the drive way a few times replace and try again.

You may be ready for an ignition switch but I'd think more accesories would be effected. There are 7 other contenders which can be common. I think you have just verified 2 work.

Regarcs, PK

[rodsnhawgs]

Update: Finally got the key to re-insert. Repeated attempts only made ignition switch get "softer" and more "spongy." Top remained partially open. So, I (thought) I was committed to repairing the problem myself now convinced the electrical issues are all ignition switch related. But wait...I bought an extended warranty after replacing the RMS!! Ignition switch is ~$200; warranty deductable: $200; no-brainer here right?...wrong...

Car in trailer to dealership for repairs. Dealer called Warranty Direct for authorization per the contract. Authorization granted. Warranty Direct will only cover ~$120 of the $165 (genuine Porsche parts) ignition switch b/c they want to use aftermarket parts...OK, I'll go the difference and tell the dealer to proceed using Porsche parts.

BTW, the top also needed a relay. $35 diff in price and 1 hour labor.

Repairs complete, I'm expecting to pay the $200 deductable + $45 difference for the switch + another $35 for the relay...right?....wrong....

Warranty Direct apparently uses a different "flat rate" than most repair shop's typical Mitchell books. They won't say what they use, only "a national hourly rate chart." Dx + repairs via Mitchell calls for 5 hours labor; WD pays < 2.5 hours and apparently does not allow for diagnosis. Additionally, they didn't match my Porsche dealer's hourly rate of $100/hour but paid a lesser $90/hour.

Bottom line: I had to pay $650 out of pocket for a job I could have done for ~$300.

This is NOT what I bought a warranty for!! Calls to Warranty Direct were met with "we are not going to consider changing the price" and a supervisor will not come to the phone to discuss this. Appeals need to be handled via www.adr.org which will cost me ~$750 for them to hear my case... I think I just got ripped off...

Long story short - be very careful with Warranty Direct. Make sure you know what you are buying and what to expect. My WD contract states they will pay for "reasonable costs to repair or replace any Failure." The definition of "reasonable" is not clear and is left to interpretation by Warranty Direct. I cannot recommend them.