09-22-2009, 04:25 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
Posts: 1,561
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Royal Purple is NOT a Porsche approved oil. I hear it is an excellent product, though, and may try it in the future. I am currently using Red Line.
But, only Randal is using the proper Porsche approved viscosity. I would never use a 5W30 in a Porsche engine, and is not an approved viscosity. 10W40 is not approved either, but a safer choice. You will probably notice more lifter chatter on cold start-ups.
And this statement from Violametallic, "... So im assuming this is a good thing and the oil is cleaning out the internals of the engine, am i correct?" is certainly NOT a good thing. You have other issues going on that need fixing.
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09-22-2009, 04:36 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
Posts: 1,561
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Here is an interesting oil write-up. I have zero opinion on the findings or validity:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
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09-22-2009, 05:54 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 147
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You should never use an anything/w30 in your Boxster.
0w40 is the minimum, 5w40 is preferred, 10w40 is equally good for warmer climates, per the earlier Porsche approved oil service bulletins.
__________________
Charles Navarro
President, LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service
http://www.LNengineering.com
Home of Nickies, IMS Retrofit, and IMS Solution
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09-22-2009, 06:00 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Illinois
Posts: 147
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Flavor 987S
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The Timken Falex bearing test has largely been discredited as a valid method of testing oils - the Holden/Commodore magazine that published that article later published a retraction.
What the test shows is how much moly is in the oil - oils with a poor score have little or no moly - oils with alot (Royal Purple, Redline) have the best, etc.
The test can also be skewed depending on how you perform the test. Knowing how moly interacts with pressure and wear surfaces, it takes anywhere from say 30 seconds to five minutes for moly to form a new wear surface consisting of "glassy plates" when then are sacrificial. Depending on the pressure exerted on the torque arm and how fast the load is applied, this will affect the amount of moly wear film and it's load bearing capacity.
__________________
Charles Navarro
President, LN Engineering and Bilt Racing Service
http://www.LNengineering.com
Home of Nickies, IMS Retrofit, and IMS Solution
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09-22-2009, 06:28 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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Get the 5-30 out of the engine. Pronto.
__________________
Rich Belloff
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09-22-2009, 08:33 AM
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#6
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2001 RUF 3800S
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 326
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Brucelee
Get the 5-30 out of the engine. Pronto.

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What will happen? This is the first time I used the 5 30.
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09-22-2009, 10:01 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 3,417
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Where can I get the Royal Purple 0-40?
__________________
-99' Zenith Blue 5-spd...didn't agree with a center divider on the freeway
-01' S Orient Red Metallic 6-spd...money pit...sold to buy a house
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09-22-2009, 10:13 AM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 526
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by blinkwatt
Where can I get the Royal Purple 0-40?
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I have seen it at napa, do a search of autozone, and the likes and you should find it.
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09-22-2009, 02:47 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 229
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by violametallic-S-
What will happen? This is the first time I used the 5 30.
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To be honest, nothing will happen than is bad for the engine.
Here's the link to Royal Purple's tech sheets for their engine oils:
http://www.royalpurple.com/prod-pdfs/motor-oil-ps.pdf
Some important numbers to look at:
Flash Point, Fire Point, cST @ 100C, SSU @ 210F
The Flash and Fire points will tell you how hot the oil can get before it will start to break down.
The viscosities tell you how thick the oil is at the testing temperature. The higher the number is, the thicker the oil is at that temperature, and for the most part, the better that oil will protect your engine when you get it good and hot.
Your 5W-30 oil will most likely be fine if you are just driving the car like a normal person. If you track the car, or abuse the drivetrain for really long periods of time, you run the risk of the oil breaking down in the critical locations, like the piston ring to cylinder wall area, and the connecting rod bearings.
You might want to run this oil change only 5k miles.
If you want to see if you can use the oil from now on, send off an oil sample to be tested at 2500 and 5k mile intervals.
BC.
__________________
Its not how fast you go, or how expensive your toys are.
Its all about how big your smile is at the end of the day that truly matters.
'98 Silver Boxster, '08 Ducati 848, '89 Honda Hawk GT, '89 Honda Pacific Coast
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09-22-2009, 03:03 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
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Given the price of the engine vs the price of oil, I am not sure I woud be comforted by a statement that my engine would 'likely be fine!"
But, I am risk adverse, in general.
__________________
Rich Belloff
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09-22-2009, 03:04 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
Posts: 1,561
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Bladecutter
To be honest, nothing will happen than is bad for the engine.
Here's the link to Royal Purple's tech sheets for their engine oils:
http://www.royalpurple.com/prod-pdfs/motor-oil-ps.pdf
Some important numbers to look at:
Flash Point, Fire Point, cST @ 100C, SSU @ 210F
The Flash and Fire points will tell you how hot the oil can get before it will start to break down.
The viscosities tell you how thick the oil is at the testing temperature. The higher the number is, the thicker the oil is at that temperature, and for the most part, the better that oil will protect your engine when you get it good and hot.
Your 5W-30 oil will most likely be fine if you are just driving the car like a normal person. If you track the car, or abuse the drivetrain for really long periods of time, you run the risk of the oil breaking down in the critical locations, like the piston ring to cylinder wall area, and the connecting rod bearings.
You might want to run this oil change only 5k miles.
If you want to see if you can use the oil from now on, send off an oil sample to be tested at 2500 and 5k mile intervals.
BC.
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This is absolutly horrible advice, and shoujld not be followed. In fact, Bladecutter should delete his entire post. Mr. Navarro, one of the experts in the field, clearly states not to use that oil viscosity. Porsche says not to use that viscosity. Other Forum members say not to. But, BC thinks it is just "fine".
W R O N G !!!!!!
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09-22-2009, 06:30 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Arlington Heights, IL
Posts: 1,561
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by cnavarro
The Timken Falex bearing test has largely been discredited as a valid method of testing oils - the Holden/Commodore magazine that published that article later published a retraction.
What the test shows is how much moly is in the oil - oils with a poor score have little or no moly - oils with alot (Royal Purple, Redline) have the best, etc.
The test can also be skewed depending on how you perform the test. Knowing how moly interacts with pressure and wear surfaces, it takes anywhere from say 30 seconds to five minutes for moly to form a new wear surface consisting of "glassy plates" when then are sacrificial. Depending on the pressure exerted on the torque arm and how fast the load is applied, this will affect the amount of moly wear film and it's load bearing capacity.
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Excellent! Thanks, Charles. You da man when it comes to oils! Do you have a link to the retraction?
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