What Oil to use?M1, Castro synt? or other

[timothy]

Originally Posted by Frodo

information divulged in 2100 won't do most of us any good at all!

Actually the 21st century started Jan 1, 2001.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/21st_century

[mptoledo]

Originally Posted by timothy

Actually the 21st century started Jan 1, 2001.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/21st_century

actually 2100= 22nd century. frodo was correct in stating that info in the 2100/22nd century won't help us. Jake stated he wouldn't tell us in the 21st century meaning he will tell us in the 22nd century(which I doubt).

So +1 for Frodo

I hope this is all clear now, and we can get back to what frickin oil to use.

[timothy]

Originally Posted by mptoledo

actually 2100= 22nd century

Nice try but unfortunately incorrect. Much like the 21st century stared Jan 1, 2001, the 22nd century begins on Jan 1, 2101. The entire year 2100 is still in the 21st century.

[Frodo]

Quote: "Nice try but unfortunately incorrect. Much like the 21st century stared Jan 1, 2001, the 22nd century begins on Jan 1, 2101. The entire year 2100 is still in the 21st century."

Posted by timothy.

Hey, thanks for pointing that out fella. Whether it's 2100 or 2101, we'll all be dead in any case, which was basically my point. Next time I'm in the market for some entirely useless trivia, I'll give you a call...

[Brucelee]

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[Brucelee]

From the Car Bible

http://www.carbibles.com/additives.html


The current trend is the "90% of your engine wear happens at startup" advertising ploy. This fact is absolutely true, but as it happens, it's less to to with "grinding engine parts" and more to do with combustion. When the combustion gases burn, they form acids which are highly corrosive when their vapours condense. These acids collect in the upper cylinder areas where their temperature is raised above their dew point. The acids condense and etch the cylinder walls and piston rings. I


n reality, this accounts for over 85% of engine wear, the other 15% being down to abrasion. So the adverts are nearly right - most of the engine wear does happen at startup, and it is because of a lack of oil, but it isn't because the oil isn't coating moving parts - it's because it's not transporting these acidic gases away. Having said that, if you start the engine and let it idle for 15 seconds or so before moving off, you can probably add another 100,000 miles to your engine's life without one bottle of additive. This warms the oil up a tad and makes sure it's in all the most vital areas before you start putting a strain on the engine.


Most handbooks tell you not to let the engine warm up before driving off (they're referring to the acid corrosion mentioned above), but they mean don't let it reach working temperature. If, however, you insist on starting up and belting off down the road, think of this next time: it takes an average engine around 3 minutes of average driving for the exhaust manifold to reach 300°C. If you blast off and run around at full throttle, right from the word go, that process takes a little under a minute. Think about it - from outside air temperature to 300°C in a minute - what exactly is that doing to the metal in your manifold? Ask anyone who's ever owned an original Audi Quattro - they'll tell you exactly what happens.


I'm not saying that these companies are having us all on, heaven knows there are plenty of statements from companies and private individuals who have reportedly reaped the benefits of these products. But in my experience, it's simply not worth the huge risk of putting the additive in there

[mptoledo]

Ignore this post

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by Brucelee

From the Car Bible

...So the adverts are nearly right - most of the engine wear does happen at startup, and it is because of a lack of oil, but it isn't because the oil isn't coating moving parts - it's [/B] because it's not transporting these acidic gases away...

Welllllll .... ??

In reality, your crankshaft and camshafts actually never touch the bearings (which are properly called fluid film bearings), instead they float on a thin film of oil - as thin as 0.0001". This is made possible by the flow and pressure supplied to the oil by the oil pump as well as a very thin film of lubricant at a sufficiently-high pressure to match the applied load because of the relative motion between the crankshaft and the bearing. Without this pressure, the oil cannot withstand the weight of the crank alone.

But all this requires the engine to be running so the oil pump can pressurize the oil, and so the crankshaft rotations create the necessary hydrodynamic pressure. When you stop your engine, the oil pump and crank stop too and your oil pressure and hydrodynamic pressure goes away and the crank settles back in the bearing, which is OK because nothing's moving and so no wear takes place.

But, when you restart the engine, you now start turning the crank which is resting directly on the bearing (minus any residual oil film clinging to the parts) and continues to do so until the oil pump and the crank are operated at sufficient rpms to repressurize the oil and once again float the crank. 85% of engine wear occurs at startup, because you get parts moving against one another until the pressure rises enough for them to float.

This is why pre-lubers (or sometimes called pre-oilers) are popular. They are in essence externally operated pumps (usually electric, driven off the battery) which run for a few seconds to pressurize the oil, supply the bearings, and float the crank before the starter is engaged so there is no crank-to-bearing contact resulting in excess wear.

The acid theory is nice, and acids are produced as combustion by-products. But what does running the engine do? Where does this acid go? Through the pickup tube to the oil pump then out to the galleries, the top of the head only to recirculate back down to the sump? The oil still maintains it's acidity and is still in contact with the metal parts whether they're moving or still. Only exhaust gasses from the combustion chamber flow out the exhaust, except for whatever vapors the PVC valve passes from the sump to the intake or combustion chamber and out the exhaust. But, when the oil is cool, it's not releasing much vapor.