Floor jack question
 

I've done a bunch of searches, but I can't find anyone mentioning this:

What floor jacks can reach the Bentley rear jacking point between the axles without driving the car on ramps first? Regardless of saddle height, it seems like the entire jack would need to be under 5"?

Tnx.

-james

I have a standard "buy it at a general store" 4 ton floor jack (bought with matching jack stands). When I jack up the rear end, I used the bottom of the rear back suspension area.

I would guess that my jack is about 5" tall at best.

I have an Aluminum floor jack a la harbor freight, it will not reach the Bently rear jack point, the car is too low. Rather than use the less strong bracket by the muffler, I simply jack up one rear wheel with an additional jack, then the floor jack can slide under far enough to reach the correct spot.

Put a short 2x4 in front of each rear tire and drive the car up onto the 2x4. Then your jack will probably slip right under it.

Put a short 2x4 in front of each rear tire and drive the car up onto the 2x4

That's what I do...I can't even get my jack under the normal jacking points due to it's ride height (H&R sport springs).

I need a new jack, if I'm going to go through the effort/expense, I'd like to get one that does not require the 2x4 method if possible. :)

The model I have has as flat a tongue as I've seen and it's still not low enough. It's an issue of going in from the rear to access the jack point and the distance to said jack point. By the time you approach it you're on the incline of the jack. Otherwise, the jack is more than capable of getting under the Boxster at all other points.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40105

Race jacks (Torin for instance) only need 3.5" clearance. I'm pretty sure that would work for you.

It's not 3.5 " anywhere but the toe, hence the post I authored on how far the jack must travel under the vehicle to reach the rear jack point. I doubt there are any floor jack manufactured that will reach that plate from the rear of a Boxster..

I doubt it as well. There are some pretty good suggestions here to get around the problem.

Costco currently is carrying a low profile steel floorjack. It is incredibly heavy but has a very low saddle height and maintains the low clearance for nearly 18". I have not tried to reach the rear jack point. But it is one of the best low profile jacks i have used to date.

Whatever method is chosen to "pre raise" the car, it's critical to reverse the steps with equal precision or risk the jack being crushed under the car mangling something expensive.

Heres a little trick (among a couple I used to get the car up. If you get one back wheel of the ground and let the wheel/suspension swing down, the drop it down easy, you'll have bought yourself am 1nch or 2.

I also use 2 floor jacks. a full size 3or 4 ton job and a $29 kragen mini floor jack. Use the cheapy to lift it enough from wherever you can, then put the big one where ever you want.

Regards, PK

I've got one of these. It's a fabulous jack, and it was cheap too. I think it cost $100. My old jack was a low-profile Craftsman. It was crap. It lasted 3 years. Can't buy parts for it, and Sears won't repair it.

This Costco jack is really heavy, but really nice.

I bought that same Harbor Freight race jack at PepBoys and it was only $59 or even less.

And best of all, it slides right under the car at the back to that central jacking point.

YMMV.

If it's the same race jack I posted a link pic of I have to call BS.

It may have been on a closeout sale. Next time I'm in PepBoys I'll see what brand it was and post the name of it and the current price for you. I didn't have $150 to spend that day, that's for sure. The wife and I have a low level limit on impulse spending and I know I would not have gone over that amount without a conversation with her (and it was an impulse purchase as I recall.)

At any rate, it would be smart to visit PepBoys and check out their aluminum race jack to compare prices, quality, and availability.

My jack looks exactly like that but, it's BluePoint and it sure didn't cost $159. I think it was right around $400 with matching aluminum jack stands I've never used. Looks can be deceiving though I had a harbor freight jack before this one and it broke with the car in the air. Luckily I had not taken the wheel off yet and it fell on all 4.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=76808&group_ID=1993 1&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

BTW, I swear by Snap On tools :D

YellowB, I don't care if Snap on made the jack, you always have to use stands, I know two mechanics who were injured thinking otherwise.

I hope you make out better than I did with a Pep Boys jack. I bought the small aluminum version to use on my Formula Ford, and after being used several times it started leaking hydraulic fluid. I'll have to check out the corner-carvers.com forum again, they had a long thread on the subject of jacks, and the lack of quiality units available under $400.

There is a Pep Boys about 30 mins North of me... I will have to check them out. Last time I went to Costco they didn't have the jack, but they do have one with free shipping on their website:

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11186866&whse=BC&topnav=&brows e=&lang=en-US&s=1

There is another Costco around here, I could check there also.

-james

what is the exact location of the central rear jacking location that everyone here uses?

just curious as to what jackstand adapters/pads everyone is using aswell.

I would like to get a good floor jack, jack stands, and jack pads specifically for the Boxster

The jack shown just above your post is ideal and priced right. Other posts in this thread will confirm.
If you can work with 2x6s and 4x4s (good mitre saw would help), search other threads on this subject or write me for info on creating 2 or 4 wood jackstands that do the job easily as well as the alum ones at a very low price and you won't need pads.
Bob

Thanks I would be interested in your set up.....you dont appear to be able to receive emails though

Check out http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/13774-floor-jack-stands.html and my post for pics of the jackstands that I built. Cheap and rustproof! Assembled with long gyp board screws. 10" total height on these.

I checked my mail and it is not ful lor anything. Please try again to send me a PM to see if it works now.

Bob

The Sears low-profile jack is cheap and fits under the rear jacking plates or the rear "Bentley" spot on my BSX 986 which is about an inch lower than stock.
The problem with this jack is that it won't go high enough to get the rear jacking points over jack stands! I use 2 hockey pucks on the jack plate and then can raise the car enough for jack stands. It's crude but effective. This is a portable jack. It is 3.33 inch in height at the pad.

I just bought a really nice low profile jack from Griots for about 400 bucks. It is SUPER low profile and jacks to 20". It also weighs about 100 pounds so it is not portable unless you're a moose at the gym. It rolls incredible smoothly in any direction owing to a huge iron ball built in to it.

Sears jack $49 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950165000P?keyword=low+profile+jac k

Griot Jack (not portable) $400 http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/in+your+garage/jacks+%26+stands/2-ton+floor+jack.do?search=basic&keyword=jack&sortby =newArrivals&page=1

Try this floor jack by Omega. It's not light or cheap but I believe it will work for the Boxster.


http://www.eautotools.com/Omega-OME29023-p/ome29023.htm

Go to Northern Too on-line and see Torin race jacks at 1.5 Ton at $129 and 2.5 ton at $169. They are light, well made, easily portable, small for storage, and either will lift any Boxster or 911 with ease. If you happen to have a big suv as well, get the 2.5 ton.
Buy cheap and you'll be disapointed for quality or servicability, buy expensive and you'll be throwing away money that you can buy Porsche goodies with.

can anybody describe or post a picture of the proper rear central jacking point?

i take it that there is nothing that can be done at the front due to the overhang

not sure i like the idea of placing one jackstand at a time at the front corners by jacking at the back or close to the front jack point

Has anyone tried this one?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=67045

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/pho...7099/67045.gif

2 Jacks are better than one
 

I have 2 1.5 ton cheap jacks from K-Mart. Since I do not use them professionally they work great for me. For the rear I jack at the cross member right at the engine and trans area. From the back of the engine, it is right at the end of the skid plate. For the front, I jack both sides at once and I place them either under the jacking points after I remove a jack or the suspension where there is a bolt coming down. If you notice, this is a connection point for the suspension to the frame...good and sturdy. I do not believe the weight on the front is enough for any kind of damage since this is a connection point and is already under a lot of stress from daily driving. :cheers: