Go Back   986 Forum - for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners > Porsche Boxster & Cayman Forums > Boxster General Discussions

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-19-2009, 06:10 AM   #1
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,518
Interesting Article on Oil Change Intervals

Oil Changes: How Often?

Do you really need to change your oil every 3 months/3000 miles?

by Tom Torbjornsen

I have been in the auto repair industry since 1972 ... hummmm, a simple calculation of the math illustrates that I have been in car repair for, uh, well, let's not go there. It makes me depressed. You do the math and keep it to yourself. At any rate, enough about my mid life crisis. Let's talk about oil change intervals.

For years the accepted oil change interval (as per the carmakers) has been every 3 months or 3 thousand miles, whichever comes first. Why? Because the oils of yesterday degraded and broke down when left in the crankcase environment for longer than the prescribed interval. The combination of heat, friction, and the oil oxidizing over time resulted in an unholy clothing of the engine's internal parts called sludge. As an automotive machinist for a good part of my career, I can tell you that sludge is an engine killer. Sludge takes a greasy, cake-like oily form and plugs oil return passages and acts like a sponge and soaks up good oil to grow its grotesque form starving the engine of vital lubricants. Once established, engine heat crystallizes it to a hardened rock of ughhhhhh, I have spent many an hour scraping and yes, sometimes chiseling established sludge from the inside of an engine before performing a machining operation on it! As the machinist prepares to perform a machine operation on a cylinder head, crankshaft, engine block or the likes he/she must clean their work meticulously before performing the prescribed operation. If the sludge is not cleaned properly, the result will be a failed engine.

Why this lesson about sludge? Because without clean good quality oil in your car's engine, it will develop sludge and cause premature engine failure.

Now more than ever before, vehicle engines operate at high heat and close tolerances. The reason for this is the Federal Emissions mandates the government has imposed on the carmakers. Vehicles have to emit a smidgeon of the tailpipe emissions they did a decade ago. Carmakers have risen to this occasion by increasing combustion chamber temps with higher compression engines, running leaner fuel systems, adjusting ignition timing for optimum emissions, narrowing cooling system water jackets, and tightening engine oil tolerances. All this makes for hotter running engines that emit less tailpipe emissions. Putting these demands on engines requires a lubricant that can stand up to this harsh environment. Hence, petroleum companies' work hand in hand with carmakers to develop engine lubricants to meet the requirements and demands of a particular powerplant, still delivering the advertised horsepower and torque output that consumers expect. Research and development between carmakers and petroleum companies has resulted in improved engine lubricants that properly lubricate your vehicle's engine as well as keep the inside clean of sludge buildup, AND CAN GO LONGER BETWEEN OIL CHANGES!

A pioneer in extending oil change intervals ...

A few years back, GM introduced a system called the OLM (Oil Life Monitor) system. This system had been in testing since 1984 and actually was put into some Buicks on a test basis. The goal of this system? To extend oil change intervals and attain bragging rights to having a more maintenance-free vehicle. The OLM monitors crankcase temp, moisture, and combustion chamber events (this represents the actual work the engine is doing while in operation). By closely monitoring these elements of engine operation the system can measure the serviceable life of the oil to within 10%. After officially introducing the OLM with virtually no engine failures attributed it the OLM, GM changes their service recommendations to what they called an "Enhanced Maintenance Schedule." With the Enhanced Schedule, the motorist need only follow the dictates of the OLM and have other scheduled services done at prescribed intervals.

Ford Motor Company has followed GM into the extended oil change interval march. In March 2007, Ford announced that they are revising engine oil change intervals to every 7500 miles. The reason? Quoting the article from the Associated Press dated March 22nd, 2007:

"Not only are modern oils better, modern engines are also better. You don't have carburetors metering poorly on winter mornings, tolerances are a lot tighter, and operating temperatures are typically a little hotter, helping to cook off the junk that accumulates in the oil. Ford contends that its customers prefer a set amount of miles between changes. The automaker also cites the environmental benefits that come from less waste oil, monetary savings, as well as extensive tests as positive aspects of the new recommendation."

Yes oil is much better than it used to be, engines are better protected with today's new lubricants but the same old logic still applies to the oil filter: always use a good quality filter when having the engine oil changed. The filter is the storehouse for dirt in the engine and when it doesn't do its job, the engine suffers internally. When dirt and grit are allowed to circulate over, within and on the engine bearing surfaces, cylinder walls, crankshafts, piston rings, camshafts and virtually all metal mating surfaces, they are damaged resulting in wider oil tolerances, lowered oil pressure and ultimately premature engine failure.

While I concur with R&D results over the years with respect to oil change intervals, I am still squeamish about leaving petroleum-based oil in an engine for 7500 miles. I guess I just know too much based on personal experience.

So while yes, I have revised my thinking regarding extending oil change intervals:

Here are my revised oil change recommendations: change regular petroleum based oils every 4-5 thousand miles and synthetic every 5-7 thousand miles.

There, those of you that for years have criticized me as being in the back pocket of petroleum companies for recommending 3 thousand mile oil changes, are you happy now?

'Til next time ... Keep Rollin'

http://autos.aol.com/article/oil-change-intervals

__________________
*
http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r...s/DSC03717.jpg

1999 986 ( Black )
1998 MB C280 ( Black )
1999 BMW K1200RS ( Yellow )
2005 Audi A4 ( Red )
NickCats is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 08:07 AM   #2
Track rat
 
Topless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Cucamonga CA
Posts: 3,662
Garage
I concur. I think those intervals are pretty close. We have been changing the oil in my service fleet every 4-5k miles for 10 years now. We monitor the internals for sludge and so far so good. Our Toyota and Chevy trucks typically go 250k miles without burning oil or showing signs of sludge.

A simple way to spot oil contamination and breakdown is to check the dipstick regularly. As soon as the oil begins to darken in color it is contaminated and due for a change. This typically starts to happen in my Boxster at 6-7k miles so out the drain plug it goes. This change interval is consistent with Jake Raby's findings also.
__________________
2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor
Topless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 09:31 AM   #3
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Arvada, CO
Posts: 229
Ehh, I still think those oil change intervals are more conservative than they need to be.

I've been sending samples to Blackstone Labs since I bought my Nissan Altima new back in Dec '06. I sent the first sample when the engine only had 733 miles on it in order to find out if there were lots of break in materials in the oil (there wasn't), and then a sample with every oil change after that.

Since I've been using Kendall Semi-Synthetic oil in the car since the first oil change, I've been changing the oil somewhere between 7500 and 9000 miles. Each UOA came back with flying colors, and I'm anything but gentle with the car.

Right now I'm waiting for the results for my first UOA with the Porsche since I bought it back in Feb.

I'd rather know what's going on, rather than hoping everything is okay, or throwing money down the drain for "peace of mind".

BC.
__________________
Its not how fast you go, or how expensive your toys are.
Its all about how big your smile is at the end of the day that truly matters.

'98 Silver Boxster, '08 Ducati 848, '89 Honda Hawk GT, '89 Honda Pacific Coast
Bladecutter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-19-2009, 12:18 PM   #4
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Surf City, NC
Posts: 1,079
Charles Navarro of LN Engineering told me yesterday that he also evaluates samples for $25 when you buy oil from him (which I did). I think about $40 separately. I'm going with Motul 300V and continuing to change annually at the 5-6k mileage.

He and Jake Raby are friends and are working together on M96 issues and proper oils for us. I'm using the LN eval from now on the help build their database.

If you have not been to his site and read his findings and recommendations you should.

http://www.lnengineering.com/index.html
__________________
Mike
04 Boxster S - Basalt/Savanna, 6sp, Carrera lites, hardtop
70 914-6 - Black over tan, original/stock
PCA since 1970
70Sixter is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2009, 04:32 PM   #5
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 1,675
10W40 every 3000 miles for me...not taking any chances after all I've read on the topic.

Now just pick your flavor; mine isn't M1.
__________________
JGM
2002 Boxster S
1973 911 Green FrankenMeanie
PCA DE Instructor circa '95
jmatta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 06:28 AM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Monroe, NY & Boynton Beach, Fl
Posts: 26
Oil Change Interval

As a two month owner of an '03, found an excellent former dealer Porsche trained mechanic with his own shop. Recommends every 5M miles which I intend to adher to. On my leased cars, I go with the manufacturer cycle which is 7500 to 15,000 on my former Saab. I think is nuts but it's their car.
__________________
Ruby
'03 Artic Silver base Boxster
PSS9, short shifter, performance chip, upgraded to Navigation and bluetooth, side skirts and spoiler, power 8 way seats from 996
Ruby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 07:04 AM   #7
Registered User
 
Brucelee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 8,083
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmatta
10W40 every 3000 miles for me...not taking any chances after all I've read on the topic.

Now just pick your flavor; mine isn't M1.

Are you talking your Box at 3K changes? That would seem a bit overdone, assuming your drive the car a bit?

__________________
Rich Belloff

Brucelee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 10:50 AM   #8
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 1,675
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brucelee
Are you talking your Box at 3K changes? That would seem a bit overdone, assuming your drive the car a bit?

That's once a year for me, otherwise I change my other cars at 5k miles.
I did install the LN billet oil filter adapter and magnetic drain plug (wow, is that thing strong!). Next up is the 160 * t-stat sitting in the box near my desk...want to get to that in the next week or two.

I'll see Charles Navarro up at Road America this weekend for Chicago PCA DE...time to get the '73 911 on the track!
__________________
JGM
2002 Boxster S
1973 911 Green FrankenMeanie
PCA DE Instructor circa '95
jmatta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2009, 07:40 PM   #9
Registered User
 
Brad Roberts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Alta Loma, CA
Posts: 1,334
Just got off the phone with Charles.. he needs a coil pack. He fried on sitting in traffic on the way to Road America.. can anyone help?

FYI: Our Grand Am team was sponsored by Motul. I HIGHLY recommend it over everything else on the market right now. We dyno'd and dyno'd..


B

__________________
Engine Builds, Transmission Builds, Engine Conversions, Suspension Installs, Suspension Tuning, Driver Coaching, Data Acquisition, Video, SCCA/PCA/POC/NASA/GRAND AM/ALMS.
We have worked with amateur and professional drivers for over 26 years. In house machinist, In house fabrication. Our cars, our parts, our engines, our transmission's run nationwide at events every weekend. We work side by side with industry names developing parts.
Brad Roberts is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 04:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page