update on overheating- now what?

[jhandy]

ok, Sounds strait forward. The car stays at 195-198 at highway speeds and shoots up when driving slow.

How do I test/check the relays? Do I have to go buy new ones and see if that works or can I bypass them electrically and take them out of the loop?

as for the resistor, pretty much the same question. How do I know that it is bad? I did a quick code check and nothing came up...I just want to avoid going to the dealer (50 miles away) and start buying things that are not needed.

I just cleaned the radiators, I did not remove them. I will remove them and check behind them to see if there is dirt between them and the oil/thing.
I did notice that a fair amount of fins are bent up. I will carefully fix them and see maybe that helps.

Also I checked the fans with a volt meter, Either they are both going bad or they are fine, they are drawing the same amps and with a volt meter I cant tell anything is wrong.

Again, I bet that this is how it always is because the car is acting fine, and the needle is in the same spot as always, however now that I know the car is getting really hot, I may add a third radiator fan.

I am curious if driving around without the bumper off would make a difference,

I worry that if I take it to the dealer and they mess with it, It will be documented that the car was running hot and if the motor ever blows because of the IMS, the warrenty direct people will use that to not pay for anything. That is how it is in medicine at least.

Sounds like I have something to do this weekend!!
Thanks for all the help

[Lil bastard]

Originally Posted by jhandy

ok, Sounds strait forward. The car stays at 195-198 at highway speeds and shoots up when driving slow.

How do I test/check the relays? Do I have to go buy new ones and see if that works or can I bypass them electrically and take them out of the loop?

as for the resistor, pretty much the same question. How do I know that it is bad? I did a quick code check and nothing came up...I just want to avoid going to the dealer (50 miles away) and start buying things that are not needed.

I just cleaned the radiators, I did not remove them. I will remove them and check behind them to see if there is dirt between them and the oil/thing.
I did notice that a fair amount of fins are bent up. I will carefully fix them and see maybe that helps.

Also I checked the fans with a volt meter, Either they are both going bad or they are fine, they are drawing the same amps and with a volt meter I cant tell anything is wrong.

Again, I bet that this is how it always is because the car is acting fine, and the needle is in the same spot as always, however now that I know the car is getting really hot, I may add a third radiator fan.

I am curious if driving around without the bumper on would make a difference,

I worry that if I take it to the dealer and they mess with it, It will be documented that the car was running hot and if the motor ever blows because of the IMS, the warrenty direct people will use that to not pay for anything. That is how it is in medicine at least.

Sounds like I have something to do this weekend!!
Thanks for all the help

You need to check the circuit for resistance - Ohms. What you do not want to see is infinite resistance, probably some value less than 1. A code reader will not tell you anything. The DME can store faults which aren't readable with an OBDII reader, nor can you reset it, this is why a PIWIS or PST2 is needed. For checking relays, see my post: http://www.986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20195&highlight=relays

If you have radiator vanes which are bent, this can be quite an issue, depending on the number and severity. You can buy a vane comb from an auto supply store to straighten them, usually a couple bucks. If attempting manually, take care as they are fragile - take your time.

You need to remove the bumper cover and separate the AC condenser to properly clean them. All sort of junk can collect between them and the radiators. Flush from the backside so you push the debris out the way it came in - don't inadvertently force it deeper between the vanes by spraying into them and don't risk damaging them by using a power washer.

[Dar01]

It seems to me your "fan" arguments are just a band aid....something else is going on. My temp is always between the 8 and the 0 (180), driving around the fans do not come on and the temp stays right there. If I am in stop and go it rises slightly (still no fans)......if I am sitting for a train lets say for 5 minutes or so, the temp rises slightly still and the front fans come on. I have only heard the engine compartment fans 2 or 3 times.....sitting long periods, hot summer day. I still don't remember my temp gauge ever leaving the "0" (180) it could have, just not sure.

If you are constantly over 200 something is going on.....thermostat going bad, but usually when those go bad they stick open and the car never reaches correct operating temp because it is wide open.

I cleaned my radiators as you did, and did not notice any "lowering" of the engine temp (I had a LOT of crap between the radiators!).

I remember reading a post where someone had said the biggest temp drop they saw in their car was a coolant flush and fill. You might want to try that and a new thermostat. Again, just my opinion if somebody wants to chime in.....I just don't think it's a fan issue....sounds like they are working like they should.

2000, base 2.7, no third radiator.

Keep us posted!

[jhandy]

Yes i agree with you. something is not right. however my temp gauge says only a little above 180. I bet you if you buy a "scangauge" device you will see exactly how hot it gets. The car is running normal, never has a light turned on, and if I did not have the scan device thing I would not even notice.

i will check everything tomorrow. If i need a new thermostat, I will buy the 160 from Mr. Navrro. If it is the same great, if it lowers the temp, even better.

To do a flush and fill is very expensive, even if you buy the 200$ flush kit, the coolent is pricey and should i also do the pump while i am in there is also a question. The price of coolent is almost the cost of a new pump. If i have to flush the system, why not make it the first and last time it needs to be done? I will report back tomorrow after i clean the radiators and test the electricals.
james

[jhandy]

ok here is the current situation.

I removed the bumper and cleaned the radiators. I then loosened the AC rads and WOW. How can so much crap get in between the two? So cleaned that out.
Cleaned the center rad by removing the rubber tunnel, LOTS of stuff in there as well.

I checked the fuses, and the relays with the multimeter, all check out fine. I did not know how to check the resistors so I left them alone.

Then with the bumper off I drove around. Temp went to 200 max.

I put it all back together and then drove, The temp went up to 217. Still the needle on the dash is not past the 0 in 180. AND NO FANS!! aside from the engine compartment fan.

So I flushed the system. Incidentally the stuff that came out was not green or red, it was almost pure water with the slightest amount of green. This is the Original fluids from the dealer when I got the car new in 2002, 65000 miles ago.

So on the hunt I go for antifreeze, in my small town, nobody had any of the approved fluids, so I in austin I found only the texaco extended kind, and it is on the list of OK fluids.

I put in 3 gallons of texaco and 1.5 of water for a 60ish/40ish ratio.
Then drove around in 93F sun and the temp still went up, but only to 207.

So I guess that this is it. Aside from a new pump or T-Stat, I am at a loss. Maybe it is normal??? Does anyone else have a OBDII real-time scanner that can report normal operation temps??

One person posted that his needle never goes past the 0 in 180, well neither does mine and the highest temp I have seen lately was 221. The dash gague is horriable.

That is almost to the boiling point of a 50/50 mix antifreeze!!!! and still no fans.

[jmatta]

I still contend what you are finding is normal. The dash gauge is inacurate, as you've discovered. The car runs much hotter than we are led to believe and the aftermarket (LN Engineering) offers the 160 T-stat that we dicussed in your earlier post.

I, for one, have already ordered mine and will be installing before the summer heat comes. I want to do everything I can to preserve my engine for the future, but still have fun driving the car.

[blinkwatt]

Dude just take a pic of where the temp gauge is when your worried about it and we'll let you know if it's normal or not.