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Old 04-02-2009, 03:19 PM   #1
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From another forum, FWIW...

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"Let it run for 5 or ten minutes after reaching operating temperature just to make sure all the trapped air is out then shut the valve --- Job Done".

Sorry, 5 or 10 minutes won't likely do it. He should drive with the bleed valve open for a couple of days - topping up the coolant as needed daily.


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Old 04-02-2009, 03:51 PM   #2
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where in cali are you? i might be able to help if you are local... my buddy and i did it when i just repurchased a boxster about a month ago... yeah, the indy quoted me about $700 for the whole deal which included the belt... it is a pretty easy DIY if you have someone helping you!!... we did it in about 1 and a half hours but if we did it again could probably do it a little quicker... i'd also go with a different waterpump the one i took out was the original waterpump and i only had 39k miles on my car... the original one has the plastic impellers and there were pieces that broke off mine so i had to make sure i got those out... the one i bought was from rockwood i believe for under $100 with a warranty and metal impellers... i'm in san fran and wouldn't mind helping out a fellow boxster owner.. just need to buy me dinner or something... as i do get hungry!!lol... my cost for repair was about $200 with waterpump, gasket, belt, coolant.... couldve been cheaper if i hadn't used the wrong coolant initially...

Last edited by mikes_box; 04-02-2009 at 03:53 PM.
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:00 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmatta
From another forum, FWIW...

QUOTE
"Let it run for 5 or ten minutes after reaching operating temperature just to make sure all the trapped air is out then shut the valve --- Job Done".

Sorry, 5 or 10 minutes won't likely do it. He should drive with the bleed valve open for a couple of days - topping up the coolant as needed daily.


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Loren
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Well that's the procedure quoted in the manual and it worked perfectly for me when I changed my coolant 2 yrs. ago.

I don't think I'd want to drive around with the bleed valve open because of the risk of overflow, not to mention condensate buildup in the trunk. But if that works for you, that's how you should do it.

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Old 04-02-2009, 09:36 PM   #4
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do you get at the water pump from the top or the bottom? the mechanic showed it to me from the bottom, while it was up on the lift - but if I did this in my garage, I'd be able to put it on jack stands, but honestly, I don't like getting under the car. the idea of my car up on the two jack stands I have, and my floor jack - just creeps me out. I get this premonition of it falling and smashing me...

if you could do it from the top that would be "safer" to me...

when I painted my brake calipers, i used my floor jack to jack up the front of the car and put jack stands under each front jack point that is just being each wheel. then i used my floor jack at the rear center to jack up the back of the car. i just left the floor jack there, for 24hrs, with the rear up in the air - and painted. that didn't bother me - while maybe not teh safest way to get the car completely in teh air - but I wasn' tunder it... i was just painting from the SIDE...

if i had a lift - going under wouldn't botheer me.

i'd love to save $500 though.
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Old 04-02-2009, 10:27 PM   #5
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your gonna have to get it from the top and bottom...
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Old 04-03-2009, 03:46 AM   #6
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You know, of course, that you can gain easy access to the pump and belt through the fire wall panel don't you?
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