01-06-2009, 12:42 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Du Monde
Posts: 2,199
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Don't buy any used DME w/o having the 6 digit DME programming code - it cannot be re-programmed w/o it.
Also, you'll need your current 16 digit immobilizer code so that it can be programmed into the 'new' DME - car will not start w/o it. You should have the dealer supply this before disconnecting the old DME.
Also, you'll need your car's VIN to enter into the PST2.
You do not need a new alarm module or key head (but you will need the existing key head code).
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01-06-2009, 02:31 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 1,209
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As LB stated below, you will need all that information to reprogram your new DME because without it the alarm, key head and DME won't talk to one another. And that's why OK Foreign told me you need the set, that the re-flash doesn't work all the time and if it doesn't work you get to buy another DME (ever see a sign that said no returns on electrical parts?). The safe fix is buying a set unit.
Hey, at this point you haven't spent any money yet. Call around and get as much info as possible and make an informed decision. I don't want to see you get burned.
__________________
Sadly on the outside looking in.
"Drive it like the Doctor ordered"
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01-07-2009, 09:22 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 51
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dme
well, i bought a used control unit because the dealer seemed confident he could make it work. $300. the wrecking yard said they won't give a refund, but will exchange it if it doesn't work. pretty generous. I'm now nervously waiting to hear from the dealer to see how this plays out.
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01-07-2009, 05:36 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 51
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reprogram
The conclusion: dealer could not get replacement DME to work, but made an attempt to reprogram the 'bad' one and was successful. So my car runs again, but it appears i am stuck with a Control Unit that is of no use to me. I will attempt to return it for store credit.
so fyi on two notes: one) bad control units can sometimes be saved if the dealer is persistent. two) when feeding power into your boxster via the lighter, use extreme caution, as it can clear the data on your control unit if you get the polarity backwards.
Lastly, what does everyone think is a fair price to get a new plastic window stitched into my cab top? The local upholstery guy (who regularly does these) is asking $600.
sg
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01-07-2009, 05:56 PM
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#5
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www.klisstle.com
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 926
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by macyfilms
when feeding power into your boxster via the lighter, use extreme caution, as it can clear the data on your control unit if you get the polarity backwards.
sg
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sg,
Glad to hear you are back on the road.
Can you explain what you were attempting to do that caused the problem and what exactly you did wrong?
Thanks,
ddb
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01-07-2009, 06:41 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 51
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There is a curious design flaw in Boxsters wherein if you have locked the car, then the battery goes totally dead, there is no (easy) way to unlock the hood to jumpstart the car because you can't unlock it manually via the intended method. Thus, one of the options is to feed power into the car another way. By connecting power to the cigarette lighter receptacle, you can power up the car again and thus unlock the hood/trunk.
the problem is that if you get the polarity wrong, it can cause damage. you can also cause problems by turning the ignition key while doing this. thus, i cleared the data on my control unit. sadly, i had been warned of this but made the mistake anyway.
if you are going to leave your car sitting a long time, put on a battery tender, or disconnect the battery, or just leave it unlocked. i'm sure i'm about the 1000th person to go thru this ordeal.
does that explain it?
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01-07-2009, 07:15 PM
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#7
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www.klisstle.com
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 926
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I figured you were trying to get your hood open by getting enough power to your battery via the cigarette lighter. I haven't had a dead battery issue yet, but if and when I do I'm planning on using the same method.
What I still don't quite understand is how exactly you reversed the polarity. I have a small, self-contained battery jump-starter that has a set of traditional battery cables as well as a cigarette lighter plug that I planned on using someday if needed. I haven't really studied how to use it, but I assumed it was a plug 'n play procedure that even I couldn't screw up.
So once you hooked up to the cigarette lighter what exactly did you hook up to on the other end? Directly to another car battery?
Thanks for an explanation. I'm trying to be somewhat prepared when my battery fails. It is over 4 years old and it isn't unusual for my car sits for a week or two. Thus far no problems but I'm sure my luck will run out at some point.
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