Seems something caused the fuse to blow, so you may have some repair due.
If you have a DMM, you can disconnect the electrical connector to the seat and see if you get 12 volts from the harness (not the seat) connector (Brn - and Rd + wires). You probably will need the ignition key in the #1 position. If you get 12 volts, your trouble is in the seat motor or the switch.
Again using the DMM, see if you have continuity between the Brn and Gry/Grn wires of the seat electrical connector when you move the switch to the back position and between the Brn and Gry/Blk wires when the switch is in the forward position.
If this is good, check the switch for resistance. If you have a DMM which also measures resistance (ohms), do the same check as before and you should see ∞ with the switch open (not activated) and 0 with the switch closed (activated). If you don't get either of these readings, your switch is bad and will need replacing.
If the switch checks out, then the motor is probably bad and will need replacing or rebuilding (which may be cheaper than replacing it).
Last edited by Lil bastard; 08-21-2008 at 08:27 PM.
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