Deye, agreed. When I was shopping for my used 986 Boxster I drove a large number of cars and found that, apart from early 2.5's which were much less torquey and flexible, the greatest difference seemed to be based not on model year, but condition. In some the steering felt more loose, the clutch engagment shuddered, there was hesitation on acceleration - all things that detracted dramatically from the driving experience.

What compares to the Boxster? As you say, not much directly. Even the Cayman is not direct competition (even though 98% of the car is the same) as the hardtop creates significantly greater torsional rigidity - as one would expect - and therefore better handling. Speaking of the Cayman, you refer to Motor Trend magazine and, while I am not really a fan, I did note that in this month's issue they gave the new Cayman a rave review and referred to the fact that they had selected the last Cayman as the wolrd's best driver's car, or some such thing, over a bunch of exotics costing way more.

Anyway, I'll check out the net in reference to your new wheels. I suspect that it wil be a total blast. Trust me, I am not anti-North American vehicles and, apart from those I have owned, have fond memories of the old Transam series, having gone to both Mosport and Watkins Glen in the early 70's to watch the 'pony cars' go at it. A friend of mine had a 1966 Shelby GT350 with posi-traction and I loved that car.

Bottom line - enjoy the new Stang!

Brad

I think the point is lap times alone are not a true measure of "handling". Fast lap times can result from horsepower, cornering grip, or a combination. You're comparing a #3650 medium wheelbase vehicle to a #2950 short wheelbase one, guess which is going to slalom better?

I case you're wondering, I love muscle cars, I own a '65 Mustang, but not for their nimble maneuvering!

On the flip side, the Boxster could be called a bloated pig compared to an Elise!

I cannot say that I have been truly annoyed by anyones post that I have read here.

We all need to drive what feels right to us and it is unfortunate that anyone is avoiding the 986/996 series due to the IMS. It takes an hour TOPS, above what you will spend replacing a clutch, to address Porsche's oversight with this motor. If you cannot afford this upgrade, then you do not have any business looking at most any sports car. These cars are not designed to the price-point of a front wheel-drive, four-banger econobox.

While there may be other brand of convertible sports cars, I cannot think of many mid-engined sports cars, let alone one that offer the experience that Porsche has engineered into these cars!

Have the prices for early 986 Boxsters bottomed out?
 

Moving from Mustangs back to Porsche Boxsters, there has been some debate about the pricing of used Boxsters recently under the 'How long does it take once an IMS starts to go' and the 'Test drove a 981' threads that would probably be better here. While many others seem to disagree, I believe that the prices for good examples of 986 Boxsters (particularly early ones) may have bottomed; what is more, I believe that in the relatively near and long-term future, there is good reason to believe that they will start to go up. Herewith my top ten reasons:

1. The 986 Boxster was a seminal design for Porsche, not only because it likely saved the marque, but because a very large number of people (well beyond what Porsche had experienced before) had a positive emotional response to the design.
Indeed, Porsche recognized this early on and one need look no further than the 'Porsche 986 Boxster 'Love Story' video narrated by Patrick Stewart, to see how the car was intended to and did tug at the heart-strings of so many. It is noteworthy that Porsche has not produced a similar video for either of the subsequent iterations of the Boxster (the 987 and 981).

2. The design was a unique mix of vintage styling cues combined with completely state of the art engineering. It harkens back to the famous (or as the death car of James Dean, infamous) Porsche 550 Spyder and cannot be confused for anything else but a mid-engined Porsche. The subsequent design changes - minor cosmetic efforts to modernize in 2003, the more modern and angular 987 and the much more modern and angular (and dare I say generic) 981, have all moved further away from the historical influences of Porsche's first mid-engined car, the giant-killing 550 Spyder.

3. The car's steering, turn-in, braking and handling were all beyond reproach for a car intended to be a 'driver's car' and road tests at the time were virtually unanimous with praise. The only knock was that, while quick, the Boxster's chassis was so good that it was clearly capable of handling much more power. True enough - and Porsche in fact addressed the complaint to a significant degree with the introduction of the 2.7 Base and 3.2 'S' model in the the 2000 model year and, with slight additional increases in BHP and torque (albeit with additional weight) in the 2003 model year. Regardless, one must remember that Porsche's reputation was built upon cars that were able to compete head to head on the track with cars that had much more horsepower and torque: the 550 Spyder and its 4 cylinder engine with Maseratis, Ferraris, Jaguars and various 'specials' with American V8 engines; the early 911's and their 6 cylinder engines with various Corvettes, Sunbeam Tigers, Cobras and production based Ferraris, etc.

4. For a car that was still quite expensive ($ 39,995.00 base in 1997 with various expensive additional option packages), the numbers sold by Porsche reflected the incredible interest that it had generated. What is more, it is clear that over and above the number of purchasers, there were a great many more who lusted after one in the late 90's but could not afford the purchase price. I was one of those persons. Recently I spoke to a 27 year old who said that the 'original Boxster" was the car of his dreams when he first took interest in sports cars as a twelve year old. Is it unreasonable to assume that, since prices for good examples of early 986's are now less than many used economy cars with similar mileage, a number of those people would love to have an 'original' 986 Boxster for nostalgic reasons?

5. Since many U.S. states permit classic car registration 20 years after manufacturing date, the early 986 Boxsters are also close to attaining classic car status. For some this will enhance the image of owning an older Boxster. Indeed, I would suggest that with the introduction of the 981 Boxster, the 986 Boxster has already moved past being merely a used Porsche/the previous model of Boxster/ a dated car, to being the 'original' Porsche Boxster (as it was described by the 27 yeasr old I have already referred to). This is significant if one believes, as I do, that like the 911, the Boxster is part of Porsche's long-term plans. This distinguishes it from other entry-level Porsche's such as the 912, 914, 924 and 944 which were eliminated as models after their initial model-run. The cars will benefit from this sense of 'lineage' or 'ancestry' that also benefits the early 911's, but which did not benefit even more expensive models such as the 928.


6. Although the early 986's are now getting long in the tooth, they still present an incredible driving experience. This reputation can only be enhanced by the fact that the original 986 Boxster 2.5 has recently been chosen by the SCCA and PCA as a 'spec' racing class. For those who have forgotten about the passion that was generated by the 986, these races will act as a reminder. For others too young to have been around when they were introduced, it will create recognition of the model.

7. Many owners of classic or collectible cars love to be able to take them on road trips. Unfortunately, most early sports cars (and especially roadsters) tend to be uncomfortable and to lack sufficent luggage space for anything but an over-niter. On the other hand, the 986 had ergonomics, HVAC controls and trunk space that made it (and still make it) quite suitable for road trips: it was the first Porsche with state of the art HVAC that could defrost the interior windows (and keep them clear) in inclement weather; and, its dual trunks provide unusually large and flexible luggage space for a roadster.

8. The PCA (Porsche Club of America) has a huge membership (much larger than any other imported sports car) and puts on a large number of national and regional events, including social events, driver training, track days, car shows/judging, parts discounts, etc., etc. A 986 Boxster is a relatively cheap entre to this exclusive club and the events will prove popular to those who are interested in a collectible car.

9. In terms of a collectible car, while the fact that the 986 was produced in such large numbers will undoubtedly keep the prices from ever becoming extremely high, nevertheless:

- over the passage to time, the number of excellent examples has rapidly diminished. This is being accentuated by the fact that many who have been able to purchase these cars at low prices over the last few years, are unwilling/unable to maintain them to a high standard. While a 986 Boxster may now be priced like an economy car, it is decidedly not an ecomony car, nor are the parts and maintenance costs!

- even cars that were sold in much larger numbers than the 986 Boxster can become collectibles with appreciating values. Consdier the Mustangs from 1965 through 1970. They too were cars that brought about a strong emotional response in large numbers of people. Many who wanted but could not afford one (or were too young to buy one) at the time, have now purchased them as collectibles. Early passions die slowly, if at all. Put another way, does anyone ever forget their first love? The 986 Boxster, like the Mustang, is that kind of car.

- good parts availability. The fact that so many 986 Boxsters were built means that there will continue to be a large supply of used parts (and with lack of maintenance and the passage of time, many cars currently on the road will soon become parts cars). The large numbers also mean that many companies will continue to make replacement/reproduction parts.

10. The release of statistics by Porsche in the course of the class-action lawsuit concerning IMS bearing failures should provide some real comfort to prospective purchasers of 986 Boxsters. Unlike some of the alarmist claims on the internet (all IMS bearings will eventually fail!), it is now clear that failure is either relatively rare (in the case of the later single-row bearings at 8 - 10%) or exceedingly rare (in the case of the earlier double-row bearings at much less than 1%). Whatever impact that this has had on resale prices (and for those who have checked on the internet prior to purchase, it surely must have frightened away at least some buyers), these numbers should stop the hysteria. Lets face it, uncertainty about something that could lead to complete engine failure and potential replacement costs in excess of the value of the car can't be good for demand.

In addition, the upgraded IMS bearings that are now available (and which can be installed for very little additional labour costs over a clutch replacement) should all but eliminate this as a cause for concern for purchasers who see these as collectible cars, rather than daily drivers.

Brad

I do need to point out that their are two "upgrades" to the IMS: the "IMS Retrofit" and "IMS Solution".

IMS Retrofit | The LN Engineering IMS Retrofit Kit for MY97-05 Porsche Boxster and 911 Models

The IMS Retrofit is an upgrade but not a fix, IMS can still occur but is much less likely. Current price for the part is $650. Porsche essentially installed this in 2006+ 987/997.

IMS Solution does away with the bearings that would fail. It's currently $1,500

Then there is the IMS Guardian which is basically a magnet on a sensor that warns you if there are metal shavings in the oil. That's currently $260-$410.

IMHO every 1997-2008 porsche owner should have at least a Guardian. I will be having one installed come next oil change, since the sensor replaced the oil plug it's best to install when oil is drained. Even with a 2006 I worry, and IMS failure is not the only reason metal may be in the oil.

986inquiry, I did not say that the IMS upgrades make IMS bearing failure impossible - only that "they should all but eliminate it as a cause for concern". When one considers the relatively low failure rate of the original bearings (and extremely low in the case of the original dual-row), I stand by that comment.

With respect to the larger bearings introduced by Porsche in the 2006-2008 model year, I did not understand that they were ceramic. In any event, while there are a number of reasons that one can get metal filings in the oil, there is nothing to suggest that failure of any of these parts occurs in the engines at anything beyond normal frequencies. All engines can fail and those with poor maintenance schedules are, of course, much more likely to suffer internal failures. My point was that there is no longer a need for paranoia on the part of owners of these engines.

Brad

Overall reliability/durability of the Boxster:
 

The problem with a site such as this is that people typically only post when they have had a problem. This leads to a slanted view of the cars as a whole, particularly since the original 986 Boxsters are now between 10 and 17 years old (the 2014 MY starts production in the next month). What sort of reilability would one expect from a 10, let alone 17 year old Toyota that was driven as hard as most Porsches? Herewith my list of positves in terms of reliability/durability of the Boxster, based upon my own experience, as well as the reports reviewed on this and other sites:

1. BODY/PAINT - Porsche's fully galvanized, laser welded bodies are as rust resistant as a steel body can be made. I have yet to see a rusted 986 Porsche, even when driven on salted roads in northern climates. Most Boxsters still have their original paint and, apart from dents and stone damage, have a finish that has held up remarkably well. Compare that to Toyotas, Mazdas, Nissans etc. of the same vintage.

2. TOP - Excellent quaility German cloth tops and a well-engineered convertible top mechanism that has proven remarkably reliable compared to many other convertible tops, in spite of its complexity. Due to the numbers produced, replacement tops are readily available at low cost.

3. INTERIOR - Sometimes criticized for cheap-looking materials, even the interiors in original Boxsters have held up remarkably well over the years - especially for an interior that is often exposed to direct sunlight. Have you ever seen a cracked dash in a Boxster?

4. BRAKES - Unlike many cars where calipers need replacement with almost every brake job, the Brembo 4 piston monoblock calipers have proven to be not only very effective, but remarkably durable.

5. STEERING - Not only does it provide accuracy and incredible feedback, but few owners have had to replace rack and pinion gears, steering racks and power-steering pumps. Compare that to the frequently replaced (at over $3000.00) electric power steering units on the BMW Z3 and Z4!

TRANSMISSION/CLUTCH - Unless abused (not unusual in cars that rev high and are often shifted quickly and sometimes inexpertly), the transmissions rarely fail. Compare that to the epidemic of failures in the Chrysler minivan, which is rarely driven hard! Clutches too can last up to 200,000 miles (see Pedro, of pderosboard), even when tracked. Go for high rev starts with the big rear tires, or fail to match revs on upshifts/downshifts, and yes, you can burn them out quickly. Drive them smoothly and they tend to last for a considerable period for a performance car.

SUSPENSION - Yes, ball joints cannot be replaced separately, but in cars that are not abused/driven on very rough roads, it is common to get 80 - 100,000 miles before components need replacement. Considering the stress that the suspension gets in hard cornering with relatively stiff springs and bushings (all required for precise handling), that isn't bad!

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM - A vast improvement over earlier German cars, Boxsters rarely have failures with their charging system, instrument clusters, power top/window motors and digital HVAC controls. The only common failures not due to abuse are the ignition switch (a $35.00 part from Audi and about 1.5 hours labour) and. less frequently, the light switch (an easy, if slightly more expensive fix). The immobilizers can fail if people allow water to accumulate in the car due to poor maintenance - holes in the back window, failure to clean out the drains, leaving the top down in the rain.

COOLING SYSTEM - Remarkably good for a mid-engine design, which required radiators and fans in the front for an engine with air ducting fans in the rear. Compare the reliability with mid-engined Italian cars (including the early Fiat X-19's, not to mention Ferraris and Lambos, etc) and you'll see what I mean. Yes, some people have issues with the waterpump (although some last for over 200,000 miles with proper cooling system maintenance). Yes, coolant reservoir tanks have been known to fail, but what does one expect of a plastic piece that held extremely hot fluid under pressure for that number of years? Fortunately, neither is a terribly expensive repair and, the radiators, fans and even the hoses have proven to be remarkably reliable.

ENGINE - Apart from the A/OS (another now aged plastic piece that is relatively inexpensive to repair) AND IMS BEARINGS, these engines have also proven to be highly reliable if properly maintained. Even the IMS failure rate (much less than 1% for early dual-row bearings and 8-10% for later single-row), are not that horrible when one considers that this is regardless of age, mileage and maintenance schedule. In any event, there are fixes available.

Overall, for an old performance car that is typically driven hard, pretty good durability and reliablity IMO!

Brad

Brad that was an excellent post!

Excellent post Brad.
I could not agree more with your analogies & comparisons.
Buying an older Porsche has some risks, but in my opinion more rewards since the experience is so worth while.
I bought my car in spite of the IMS fear mongers.
Do I think about it? Yep, but I stopped letting it wake me up at night figuring I have choices if the worst happens.

Excellent post Brad! Just got back from another top down drive in the evening and absolutely love this car! Told my nephew he needs to get one when he is done with college, much better than a Corolla! Live is too short to drive a boring car. These cars, despite their faults, are an extremely good value IMO. Your points about how hard these cars are driven and yet hold up remarkably well is a point well taken. Thanks for the perspective!

PCA/UCR Article on 4 recent Boxster purchases.
 

Members’ Rides June 2013

Above is a link to an article on the website for the Porsche Club of Americal/Upper Canada Region, from four individuals who recently purchased used 986 Boxsters (and no, I am not one of them). Somewhat interesting, IMO, as the first story refers to somoeone who had always wanted one and believed that, at the current prices, now was the time to buy (and the latter ones telling how, in effect, these cars sell themselves).

It does tend to confirm my belief that the demand for these cars will likely remain high for middle-aged people who had been interested in them (probably from the time of their introduction) and find, to their surprise, that they are now able to afford one.

Brad

Spot on, Brad.

I first discovered the Boxster concept car in a magazine article in 1992, which suggested the possibility of Porsche manufacturing it. Target price was $29,995, I believe, but I knew it would come in substantially higher than that. Might as well have been $1,000,00.00, as there was NO way I could come up with that considering our situation and the responsibilities we had at the time.

Fast forward 20 years, and the very popular Boxster (I think over 243,00 units have been sold) is now available at a very reasonable price. And many of the examples for sale are in very good to pristine shape. :)

So yes, we middle-aged boomers are enjoying the heck out of these fine automobiles that at one time seemed completely out of reach.

TO

TO, I was in the same situation. Fell in love with the car but was unable to afford one at the time due to family obligations. Sometimes it's not so bad getting older!

Brad

I've been waiting my whole life to get old! :)

TO

trust worthy used car dealer
 

I am looking at buying my first Boxster and wanted to know if there were any recommended used dealers in the UK apart from main Porsche dealers that is.

cheers

Ginger....
Go out and buy a copy of "911&Porsche World" magazine - there are quite a few Porsche specialis listed. Just pick a couple of businesses close to where you live and go from there.....

gingerboy, I can't speak to where you are, but regardless of the reputation of the dealer or whether you buy privately, GET A PPI, preferably from an experienced Porsche mechanic who has no connection with the car. You are also much more likely to get maintenance records from a private vendor and that is also extremely important.

Good luck with your search!

Brad

very helpful thank you guys!
 

i was in the same boat as the thread starter but after reading this im much more informed about how to have my porche appraised and priced. thanks guys you might of saved me lots of money..:)

Congrats to any would be owners who are thinking about buying a Boxster and reading this thread. I got a PPI done before I bought my car. A more in depth PPI I believe is required.

The basic PPI does not include the following but I and am sure a bunch of others would agree and some have suggested the following in addition:

- remove oil filter to check for metal
- drop oil pan to check for metal
- a leak down test
This list is not all inclusive.

My experience after 2 years of ownership is that the Boxster is the most fun car I have driven in my life. However it comes at a price. I do not think that it is a durable car in terms of some components. There is always the possibility of IMS failure. Have had CV joints refurbished, idler arm replaced and if I keep the car long enough wheel bearings replacement. This is on a car with only 40k miles. My car is a Boxster base 2001.

Before you buy this car you have to ask yourself if you should have enough $$$ in the bank to budget for a failed engine plus 'normal maintenance' of about $2k a year.....Hope this helps!You cannot run a Boxster for the same cost as a Miata.

Recycledsixtie, I agree totally with your recommendations in terms of the PPI - although I do not believe it is necessary to have the oil pan removed (especially if it has a magnetic drain plug) unless the oil had just been changed.

Turning to the components you mention. In two years of ownership, apart from maintenance (oil/filter every 5-8000 km, replacement of the serpentine belt and windshield wiper blades), my only repair has been replacement of the ignition switch (a $35.00 Audi part and 1.4 hours of labour). I too have budgeted $2000.00 for annual maintenance and thus far I have banked a great deal of that amount for potential future problems.

The CV joints are typically more problematic in the S (more extreme shaft angles) and it would seem that most people with a base Boxster are able to go in excess of 100,000 miles before they need replacement. Were the boots ripped at all at any point, to your knowledge? Wheel bearing replacement at such low mileage also seems a bit unusual, but whether or not those problems are typical, you are correct - your maintenance costs aren't going to mirror that of the much cheaper (and much poorer performing) Maxda MX5 Miata.

Brad

Southernstar....
 

I have sent you a pm....and thanks for the interest.

Make the seller take YOU out for a test drive!
 

The incredible variance in the longevity of various mechanical components experienced by members on this site got me thinking about the causes. Some people are able to get almost 200,000 miles out of a water pump, others need multiple replacements in 100,000 miles. Some experience early CV joint failure, whereas many get well over 100,000 miles out of the original ones. Some need clutch replacements at 30 to 40,000 miles, others have their original clutch at 150,000 miles. Some need replacement of their suspension components at 60-70,000 miles, others not until 120,000 or more. Some suffer transmission failures, whereas others have no difficulties for a quarter of a million miles or more! The list goes on and on.

I cannot believe that production variances at Porsche are that extreme and hence, I have to believe that there are other causes. Of course, proper maintenance schedules including more frequent than recommended oil changes are important. However, just as important IMO is the way the car has been driven. There seems to be prevailing, or at least common attitude amongst owners that you should drive your Porsche 'like you stole it'. Hard and without sympathy for the mechanicals. The result, I suggest, is bound to be premature breakages and failures of many components.

High-rev starts and participating in stop-light drag races are not, I suggest, what these cars were designed for. The result is bound to be increased strain on not only the tires, but the CV joints and transmissions. Rapid upshifts are also going to put undue strain on the synchronizers and eventually, the gears themselves. Mis-matched rpms on downshifts are also going to contribute to wear on the CV joints and transmission. Indeed, sloppy shifting can result in hitting a lower gear than intended on an up or downshift and over-revving of the engine. And we know what that can lead to!!!!

Inexpert driving can often lead to curbs being hit. Yes, it contributes to 'road rash' on the rims, but it also puts strain on the suspension and steering components and creates problems with suspension alignment.

Of course, it is not only driving a car 'like you stole it' that can contribute to increased wear and tear on the mechanicals - inexpertly riding the clutch and lugging an engine that is designed to rev is also bound to contribute to early failures in the clutch and engine.

Where you drive is also bound to be a significant factor. Driving regularly over train-tracks and potholes (and especially doing so quickly) will put great strain on suspension and steering components. Using your car primarily for short jaunts to the mall will also contribute to wear to the engine - short runs mean a substantial amount of the use will be prior to the engine warming up. This will lead to condensation in the oil and problems beyond the door knicks and dings which often accompany that type of use.

Prior to driving the car that I ultimately purchased, the 70 year old owner got in the driver's seat and drove the car until it was completely warmed up. He shifted expertly, double-clutching all downshifts and not rushing his upshifts. At one point we crossed some railroad tracks and he slowed to virtually a crawl. He did not lug the engine, but he also did not rev above 3000 rpms until the car was fully warmed up. His takeoffs from stops were smooth and efficient. When we switched drivers, I was almost embarrased at my own efforts to drive smoothly in a car with which I was unfamiliar.

He told me that he drove the car primarily in the country on weekends and that he avoided malls and parking lots like the plague. The COMPLETE absence of knicks, dings or scratches on the doors and fenders provided substantial corroboration for that claim. So too did the complete absence of road-rash on the rims. He claimed that the car was never driven in the winter and that he kept a rigorous maintenance schedule. He had all bills for his years of ownership, showing 6 to-8000 km (4-5,000 miles) a year and oil changes every March or April, when the car was put back on the road. These records and the timing of his oil changes also tended to confirm that the vehicle was not winter driven.

The upshot? Apart from regular maintenance and having to replace my ignition switch, my car has been trouble free during my two years of ownership and 16,000 km. I cannot help but believe that the care and expertise he exhibited during the test drive were representative of how he drove the car at all times. Not like he 'stole it', but as a careful owner who was sympatico with the car's mechanicals and took pride in operating it quickly, but also smoothly and expertly. So yes, I suggest that before you take the wheel, you ask the seller to take YOU out for a test drive.

Brad

So very wisely written southernstar! Every point you made is spot on.Sounds like a great car you have.

I am looking at buying used. I have a Porsche specialist tentatively lined up for a PPI, and possibly oil change and filter cut, depending on the maintenance of the car(s) I end up looking at. Out of curiosity, if someone had done a recent oil change, how long for the chips to show up in a new filter? Should I be suspicious of a very recent oil change? Also, where do I find the serial number on the engine, if I wanted to check if it has been swapped out?

I have visions of driving it to get it inspected and the engine blowing up on me, but that is probably just paranoia.

Right now there is a black 2002 S calling me with 29 K miles on it, I found a 2001 S with 84K miles for $5K less, but I am not sure I like the color or the miles.

Thanks in advance.

A couple of things I would suggest. I don't have all the answers here. When you test drive a car, before you start it , turn key on before starting to make sure all warning lites illuminate especially the CEL light. If the CEL lite does not illuminate before starting, then I would suggest you walk. Once started all lites should extinguish.

I would think that if the oil filter had been changed and the ims bearing was grinding then there would be more metal. Still a good idea to drop the filter and check it.

Try different Boxsters. In 10k miles my 2001 base Boxster makes a lot more rattles and different noises than when I got it. If the PPI is satisfactory to you and has problems you can either walk or deduct the cost of repairs off the asking price.If you or the owner drives it to the PPI place, if it implodes it still is not your car so you are not responsible except if your are negligent(overrev etc). Others will chime in. Good luck with your purchase. It is a fun car!

The engine number is on the passenger side of the engine, on the lower block just above the oil pan joint. You will need a flash light and a clean rag or steel wool to see it without removing the R/H/side rear wheel....

Would you buy another?
 

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/48370-would-you-do-again.html

Above is a link to a discussion as to whether current owners would buy another Boxster.. IMO, this is possibly the best way to assess owner satisfaction. Bearing in mind the age of the original 986's, the IMS issues and the cost of maintenance in relation to garden variety cars, the percentage who have no regrets is pretty impressive!

Brad

If you are new.....
 

to this forum and want to research something before asking the members, I would suggest that you use the search function to look for answers first. It is quite likely if you have a generic question such as which oil, which filter, which tires etc then the answers may already be in past threads. You have to be a member first before you can do a search.

Thanks for reading this!

Just picked up an 03 Boxster S. Everything was perfect about the car except the tires. They have tread left but they are older tires. A lot of vibration, and very harsch ride. I'm looking to get new tires. This csr has the 18" Carrera wheels on it. Wondering if there was a tire available that would give a softer ride and some performance. Not looking to race car, live in South, not driving in snow........

I have 18's and put Michelin Pilot Super Sports on. Much quieter and smoother than the tires that were on there. Lots of threads on here about tires. Also, Tire Rack has great comparisons on their web site. Many on here like the Hankooks. Here is a Car and Driver article: Tire Test: Nine Affordable Summer Tires Take On the Michelin PS2 Comparison Tests - Page 10 - Car and Driver

Welcome to the forum and we need pictures or it didn't happen:D:cheers:

How do you really know how....
 

good a used Boxster is? I will give you an example using my car as an example.
45k miles, 2001 Boxster base and no CEL.

What could possibly go wrong? CEL light is out as it has been reset. I have changed the oil filter to get rid of the green pieces . Code P1341 I have been assured will come back after a long drive. 100 miles?

I personally could not sell my car in this condition but am sure many could and will.

Guy.

Guy, that is no different than any other used car from any other manufacturer - it is always a caveat emptor situation unless you know the car and current owner.
Of course, it is another reason that a thorough PPI is so important. I had a PPI conducted on my car and, when all else was positive, paid for an oil/filter change so that we could inspect (cutting the filter in half) for particulate matter.

Brad

Edmonds and Consumer Reports still give props to Boxsters for their reliability, even older ones. That being said, any car that gets into double digits of age are going to have some challenges and expenses. And no matter how well kept a car is - 13 years is 13 years and something could go wrong tomorrow, no matter how much preventive maintenance you do.

What should I look at besides mileage when buying a second hand boxster?

Balanced Report Card
 

Lots of horror stories on this blog. I've had my '98 Box for six years now and she's never asked for anything other than routine maintenance.

Until I'm still thinking if it is worth buying.

Should I buy?
 

2001 Boxster 5spd with 91K miles

2001 Porsche Boxster 5spd

I would appreciate some other peoples opinions on weather I should go for it and buy it, or if there are too many miles on it.

Thanks in advance!

To start, 97K miles isn't too many.

What matters is how well the car was cared for during those 97K miles;

Is the owner offering any repair history or receipts? That will tell you that the car was well cared for. Its not a deal killer if they don't have that info, more of a bonus.

Regardless, get a Pre-Purchase Inspection (PPI) from a reputable Porsche specialist (independent or dealer). That will be the best $300 you ever spend. They will be able to tell you exactly what you're getting into.

Despite the affordable purchase prices these days, a Boxster can be somewhat expensive to maintain and repair. The rule of thumb is to budget $2,000 per year for maintenance and repairs. You might not need that much, but better to have it than not.

Also, consider doing some of the maintenance/repairs yourself. Boxster's are not hard to work on and there are tons of instructions on how to do everything from change the oil to rebuilding the engine. You can save quite a bit on costs this way.

Either way, find a competent, reasonably priced local Porsche independent repair shop. They will become your best friend.

Do some searches on this Forum about "PPI" and whatever else you're wondering about and you'll find a lot of good, constructive discussion.

Be sure to do a search on "intermediate shaft bearing failure" or "IMS bearing failure". This failure can affect a small percentage of Boxster engines. There are replacement parts that will mitigate the risk. You'll need to educate yourself on this subject.

A Boxster is one of the best handling cars in the world and it will put a huge grin on your face every time that you get in the car. Guaranteed.

Best of luck and I hope that you join us soon!

The only thing I would add to what thstone says, is that from reading through the ad, it mentions a crack in the paint on the rear quarter: That may be nothing, but to me it implies body work from a collision repair that may have been done cheaply. All the more reason for a good PPI.
Overall it looks very nice and well cared for in the listing.

Thanks for the response! What type of maintenance and repairs should I be expecting yearly?