Need Help with 90K Service

So my 90K mile maintanence is comming up and I want to cover all bases. Im pretty sure I can change the engine oil, transmission fluid, spark plugs, fuel filter, cabin filter, polyrib belt, and what not. But I dont know how to change the differential fluid, bleed the brakes, or inspect it properly to where I wont miss anything. Should I do what I can (should I ask around and rent a lift?) then take it to the dealer for the diff fluid, brakes, and inspection? If anyone could give me a quick run down on basic procedures and tools needed Id appreciate it. I think ive got this much so far-

Oil change: get under there, take out drain plug and oil filter, reinstall and fill up (correct)?
Tranny change: take off the under cover and braces, drain it, fill it untill 11mm below fill plug line (correct?)
Fuel filter: take off under body panel, remove insulation, slide out and replace (correct?)
Polyrib belt: remove shrouds, loosen tensioning pulley, slip belt off, reinstall, tighten pulley (correct?)
Cabin filter: no brainer, under front hood
Spark plugs: remove ignition coils or wires (dont know which), unscrew, install new plugs (whats the correct gap and suggestions for best brand of spark plug, also its heat rating, and should I used antisieze?), re install wires (correct?)

[John V]

The transmission fluid change procedure is covered in detail on renntech.org. Do a quick search there and you'll find it. It is not difficult.

Flushing the brakes, also not difficult. However the cost for getting this wrong is very great. I bought a Motive power bleeder off of eBay for flushing brakes, and I have to say it was one of the best investments I've made in car tools. It makes the job so simple a child could do it. Be very careful to immediately clean up any brake fluid that drips onto the calipers, or your paint will be destroyed.

None of these items require a lift, I have done all of them with the car supported by jackstands. However a lift does make it easier to do most of them.

[shaman1204]

Not to hijack your thread Bogg, but can an oil change be performed while the car is on the jack stands? Doesn't it need to be level?

[John V]

Originally Posted by shaman1204

Not to hijack your thread Bogg, but can an oil change be performed while the car is on the jack stands? Doesn't it need to be level?

Who says the car can't be level while on jack stands?

The answers are yes, and yes.

[porschedude]

Bleeding brake fluid is quite easy. Buy one of those one-man bleeder system with a hand vacuum pump (try harborfrieght.com or sears). Instructions are all there but first suck out most of fluid from the reservoir/master cylinder (from the top), then fill up with new fluid. Afterwhich, remove one wheel at a time and follow instructions provided with the bleeder system....very easy.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by porschedude

Bleeding brake fluid is quite easy. Buy one of those one-man bleeder system with a hand vacuum pump (try harborfrieght.com or sears). Instructions are all there but first suck out most of fluid from the reservoir/master cylinder (from the top), then fill up with new fluid. Afterwhich, remove one wheel at a time and follow instructions provided with the bleeder system....very easy.

Hi,

Using a Vacuum Bleeder can be more difficult and less effective than a Power Bleeder. I don't recommend them for Modern Cars.

Once you open the Bleed Valve, with the MityVac, you can draw air through the threads making it more difficult and risking introducing air into the system. And, it's less convenient, or a two-man job, as someone must monitor the fluid level in the Reservoir. Where the Power Bleeder can be filled with sufficient fluid to complete the job.

Also, on ABS equipped cars, you need a certain amount of pressure to force fluid past the ABS Valves (and in cars equipped with TC5.3 or PSM, you need a PST2 to actually activate these valves - you cannot DIY these cars). This pressure is usually 15-25 PSI (on an older Boxster I don't recommend going higher than 19 PSI so you don't risk damaging the seals in the Master Cylinder, though you'll still have enough pressure to force the fluid/air through).

The Power Bleeder is overall much easier and neater, and well worth the $25 higher price. I think this is important because the easier the task is, the more likely an owner will change their fluid on the recommended Service Interval of every 2 yrs...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Adam]

I used the old pump the pedal method for the brakes with a friend and it worked great. I recammend you invest in this Bogg read it like the bible.

[blinkwatt]

Tranny change: take off the under cover and braces, drain it, fill it untill 11mm below fill plug line (correct?)

Take the cover off,remove braces,remove plug,drain it,put plug back on,remove fill plug and fill,put fill plug back one(TRUST ME IT'S EASIER SAID THEN DONE)

Polyrib belt: remove shrouds, loosen tensioning pulley, slip belt off, reinstall, tighten pulley (correct?)

Make sure you install the belt in the correct order on the pulleys.

Your pretty much on the right track,let us know how it goes. I recently finished my 60k tune-up myself,so I've 'been there and done that' and can tell you it feels AWESOME getting to know your car better!

[racer_d]

Originally Posted by boggtown

So my 90K mile maintanence is comming up and I want to cover all bases. Im pretty sure I can change the engine oil, transmission fluid, spark plugs, fuel filter, cabin filter, polyrib belt, and what not. But I dont know how to change the differential fluid, bleed the brakes, or inspect it properly to where I wont miss anything. Should I do what I can (should I ask around and rent a lift?) then take it to the dealer for the diff fluid, brakes, and inspection? If anyone could give me a quick run down on basic procedures and tools needed Id appreciate it. I think ive got this much so far-

Oil change: get under there, take out drain plug and oil filter, reinstall and fill up (correct)?
Tranny change: take off the under cover and braces, drain it, fill it untill 11mm below fill plug line (correct?)
Fuel filter: take off under body panel, remove insulation, slide out and replace (correct?)
Polyrib belt: remove shrouds, loosen tensioning pulley, slip belt off, reinstall, tighten pulley (correct?)
Cabin filter: no brainer, under front hood
Spark plugs: remove ignition coils or wires (dont know which), unscrew, install new plugs (whats the correct gap and suggestions for best brand of spark plug, also its heat rating, and should I used antisieze?), re install wires (correct?)

You forgot to charge yourself $100/hr