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Old 03-20-2007, 12:57 PM   #1
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cant seem to get the top open manually at all....

i searched on renntech for hours and hours, got a manual as well online and looked at it, doesnt seem THAT hard, but when i get to my car nothing looks the same when comared to pictures.
i give up, this is retarted.
does anyone of you chicago guys know how to do this? if not then i guess during the tech day on the 25th someone will know
i just wanna know whats up, if its the cable or whathave you...so i can order the damn part and get this over with
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Old 03-20-2007, 01:02 PM   #2
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DJ, sorry about your problems with the top. Have you checked the micro-switch yet in the top handle/latch?
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Old 03-20-2007, 01:07 PM   #3
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DJ, here is the link to the Chicago PCA Tech Session...I don't think they will be covering the items that you might be expecting. The TS is more for drivers who participate in DE events.

Take care!

http://www.pca-chicago.org/?getpage=66
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Old 03-20-2007, 01:42 PM   #4
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open top

Hello, does the rear lid open? If so, there are plastic fittings that fit on control arms. pop these off and the top can be put up and down manually. 862-222-4618
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Old 03-20-2007, 01:47 PM   #5
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no nothing opens at all, top stays open the whole time, i just hear clicking noise.

i checeked the switch, kinda, i doibt its that because when i unplug it there is no noise coming from the rear like when its plugged in

and for the tech day, i know what its about, im actually going there to get some quick tips b4 i change my pads, but there has to be soemone there that will be able to help me out w the top, i hope at least
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Old 03-21-2007, 06:28 PM   #6
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well heres an update, little red part broke.
they dont sell just that, but i had to buy the whole damn thing.
my dealer charged me 80, called sunset and ordered the same thing for 40, so ill return the other one.
o well, now its up and running fine, so no more frustrations

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Old 03-21-2007, 06:42 PM   #7
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Did you have to buy the whole arm, DJ? In the picture below I circled the area where the arm attaches to the transmission. I need the rubber bushings attached to the arm there. If you don't need them, I'd buy them from you to help defray your cost.
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:18 PM   #8
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you will probably have to change drive cables and transmissions soon.....
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:32 PM   #9
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That kinda irks me... a cheap little plastic end like that? It's GONNA break... I wonder if someone can rig up a metal one. Put some lithium grease in there when you get it in!
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:33 PM   #10
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i did have to buy the whole arm, its pretty stupid, the littleplastic thing that i needd probably cost $2 and i had to buy the whole 80 dollar piece
i seriously really hate dealerships, i never had good experience w any dealer so far, they just try to rip off hoest hardworking people with over priced labor charges and mrakups up the &^%#$
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Old 03-21-2007, 07:41 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrayAdjacent
That kinda irks me... a cheap little plastic end like that? It's GONNA break... I wonder if someone can rig up a metal one. Put some lithium grease in there when you get it in!
I have metal ones. I forget where I got them. I'll have to look. They were $69.95!

EDIT: I remember. It's Paragon Products. You can find them here http://www.********************************************************************.com/product_p/kla_boxtopfix.htm
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Old 03-21-2007, 08:44 PM   #12
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i already installed it, the srivers side was already replaced, its white, and red ones are bad ones, which as you see already broke on me
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Old 03-21-2007, 11:43 PM   #13
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way to go dj, problem solved!
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Old 03-22-2007, 08:51 AM   #14
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yea man you have no idea how relieved i am.
the biggest problem was getting those shock looking things to come undone.
used that tool from toolkit w no success, and then me and my dad used every single tool in our garage again with no success. then the passinger side came out fairly easy w pliers.
the drivers side we messed with for no joke about 3 hrs, would not budge.
then i got kinda pissed, and was looking around the garage to see what i can use to get tha thing out, its such an akward position to try and pull hard under the rollbar with your head sticking trough the hoop and barely inside the car from all the space in the back.
so i took this long chain, yes chain, that had a big hook at the end, hooked it to the shock looking thing, and extended the chain all the way out trough the passinger side door, put a screwdriver inside one of the chain hoops, a quick pull it and came right out, took me like no joke 5 seconds. damn it if i only figured that out 3 hrs earlier
o well, now its all god to go
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:06 AM   #15
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I'm pretty sure I read about those being made of plastic on purpose, so that it prevents further damage to the entire top mechanism and a bent clamshell when there's a failure. Cost you $40 bucks to fix rather than thousands if the clamshell and other parts bended. Glad you got it worked out.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:10 AM   #16
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Ah yes the convertible push rod failure, happened to me when i forst bought my car, even though it broke, it still worked cause the other side didnt break. I also replaced the rubber bushings just incase. over priced except the bushings.

BTW, doesnt it hurt your fingers working on that stuff with your finger nails sooo short?
I always leave acoulpe millimeters on for nose picking, head scratching, crotch & ass scratching
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:19 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster
BTW, doesnt it hurt your fingers working on that stuff with your finger nails sooo short?
I always leave acoulpe millimeters on for nose picking, head scratching, crotch & ass scratching
Classy.
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Old 03-22-2007, 09:37 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrayAdjacent
That kinda irks me... a cheap little plastic end like that? It's GONNA break... I wonder if someone can rig up a metal one. Put some lithium grease in there when you get it in!
Hi,

Actually, that part is designed to break under a certain amount of force so that you don't risk breaking/bending the Top Frame Members or stripping the Transmission, beding the Clamshell, etc.

But, as the plastic ages, it fatigues and breaks under a lesser force. Trouble is, you can never really tell if it broke as designed, or prematurely, without operating the Top manually and checking to see that it moves freely w/ no binding.

There are aftermarket cables w/ Metal receivers available. These will not break due to age, but unfortunately, they will not act as a Fail Safe like the plastic ones do.

The PO of my Car switched over to the metal ones, and if I used my Top regularly, I'd switch it back to the Plastic ones just to be safe...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:16 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_Boxster
Ah yes the convertible push rod failure, happened to me when i forst bought my car, even though it broke, it still worked cause the other side didnt break. I also replaced the rubber bushings just incase. over priced except the bushings.

BTW, doesnt it hurt your fingers working on that stuff with your finger nails sooo short?
I always leave acoulpe millimeters on for nose picking, head scratching, crotch & ass scratching
thats my dad holding that piece, so ill have to ask him what he scratches his head/nose/crotch/ass, although i really dont want to ask him that hahahaha

btw, do you have a crack pinky nail?
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Old 03-22-2007, 11:30 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djomlas
thats my dad holding that piece, so ill have to ask him what he scratches his head/nose/crotch/ass, although i really dont want to ask him that hahahaha

btw, do you have a crack pinky nail?
LOL no i dont have a pinky nail to snort coke with... lasttime i let my pinky nail grow alittle longer than the rest, damn near ripped it off playing football. My friends father had one lol. i thought it was sorta gross cause im sure it was dirty.

You got a crack pinky nail huh!
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