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Super,
Here's a slightly modified version of a touch-up post I wrote some time ago. If you really want an invisible repair, this is one way to accomplish it.
You're going to find that the brushes supplied with the touch up paint are waaaay too big. You'll want to find a couple of 000 artist brushes. You can get them at any hobby shop or Michael's Crafts, someplace like that.
First, be certain that no rust has started to form in the scratch. Look carefully. If rust has begun to form, use a fiberglass pen to clean the scratch out first. You can find them at Eastwood.
As far as the color coat goes, you just want to get enough in the scratch to cover the metal, or primer. Be certain to allow the base-coat plenty of time to dry, and try not to allow the car to get wet during this period.
Next, fill the scratch with the clear until the clear rises slightly above the level of the manufacturer's clear coat. This may take several coats of paint. Allow this to dry for a week or so.
Next, Get some brand new pencils with erasers, a sheet of 1200 and/or 1500 grit sandpaper and plenty of water. Cut tiny round pieces of the sandpaper and glue them to the pencil erasers (the sandpaper circles should be the same size as the pencil eraser. I find it easier to glue a piece sandpaper on first and then trim it to size). Wet the surface of the vehicle in the area of the scratch, and particularly the scratch itself. What you want to do is lightly sand the clear over the scratch down to the exact level of the manufacturer's clear-coat. Take your time and check your work often. Be sure to keep the surface wet at all times (except when you're checking your work. When checking your work, dry the area so that you can clearly see what you're doing). When you are satisfied that you have flattened the clear down completely without cutting into the manufacturer's clear-coat, stop. The surface you've sanded will be very dull and flat.
Next, you will need to polish this area to regain the shine and blend the repair. I use 3M's Finesse-It II. You can successfully polish the repair by hand, but you'll be far more successful going with a buffer. Polish the area until the shine comes back. If you're an amateur with a buffer, be sure to read all you can about buffing and burning through your paint. This can happen extremely fast and be very ugly. If you're not comfortable, let a detailer rub it out for you. Another option is a random orbital buffer which will be much more forgiving.
Once you are done with the polish, run over the area with a good swirl mark remover to take out any buffer marks, wax with your favorite wax and you're done!
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