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Old 04-07-2007, 05:39 PM   #12
Topless
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer_d
Luis,

I think we spoke on Sunday briefly. I was in a non S yellow boxster that was well, quite quick

1) 17" wheels, and their tires, will be cheaper than 18" wheels and tires. Could be as much as $50-70 per tire cost difference. Plus, you can pick up 17" rims for $600-1000 vs twice that or more for 18"s.
2) What size tire do you want to run. What brand tire do you want to run.
3) While the side profile may be taller on a, for example 255/40-17 vs a 265/35-18, you will find the overall circumference is very close. Then again, I can't say I call a 40 series tire a balloon

You will find that, say a Khumo XXX comes in 225 and 255 in 17", but a Yokohama or Toyo might make a 235/255 combo. Small differences but something to consider.

Looking back, I wish I went 245's all around because I would prefer to get the rear of the car to rotate more. However, some shops don't want to squeeze a 245 on a 7.5" wide rim. So, in my case I am running 225/275-18s (stock is 225/265) but notice a touch more understeer than I desire.

Its all good fun but remember the best improvement to make is SEAT TIME. Once you learn to drive well, then the other enhancements can make you even quicker.
Racer_d is wise... Seat time is always your best performance investment.

The Boxter Spec racing series is currently running 225/255 17's on all cars. This is what I am currently running on my track set with Michelin PS2's. It's a good compromise between traction and unsprung weight. Fore/aft balance is also pretty good. If you are running a 987s you might want a little more width on the rears due to higher HP and weight.
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