986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - View Single Post

S50Sinner · 08-28-2024, 12:59 PM

Disclaimer: I don't race, nor have I raced or modofied my Boxster. All knowledge I have to offer comes from having researched a lot on this site for curiosity and in preparation for casual autocross. All of my racing experience is in tuning off-road buggy coilovers, with the only commonality being a mid-engine layout. Almost everything I say here is a paraphrasing of what other people who know more than I do have said in this forum.

Depends a lot on suspension height/stiffness, but 0 toe front, 0-0.1deg toe in at the rear seems to be the norm in most threads, 1.5deg camber front and 2.0deg rear is a decent place to start at stock ride height/stiffness for safe/neutral handling. If it understeers, give it more front camber and if it oversteers add rear camber. Check tire wear after a session and adjust accordingly. I've heard of people running 3 or more degrees all around, so feel free to experiment with broad angles. As a MacPherson Strut car, lowering the Boxster introduces a substantial amount of negative camber, so keep that in mind when adjusting.

If you're running square tires, you may want to upgrade the front sway bar, otherwise you'll either oversteer a lot or eat up the front tire shoulders. To the best of my understanding, you want a little more camber at the rear than the front, about half a degree difference, to keep it neutral. More difference front/back for a tight car, and equal if you like a loose car.

Porsche killed terminal oversteer properties by giving the Boxster narrow front tires and a lot of camber at the rear. That means that you get great front-end response under low-G, quick input where the front tires are upright and the rears are angled, but as you load up it turns to understeer, as the rear tires lean into their thread and the fronts lean out of theirs. If you widen the front tires AND camber out the front tires, you'll be essentially double-dipping into the oversteer sauce, so just tread carefully when testing, these cars can be made to spin like a top if mishandled.

And of course, if someone else who actually races says something that contradicts me, take their word over mine.

08-28-2024, 12:59 PM	#2
S50Sinner Registered User Join Date: Nov 2023 Location: West Bloomfield, Michigan Posts: 43	Disclaimer: I don't race, nor have I raced or modofied my Boxster. All knowledge I have to offer comes from having researched a lot on this site for curiosity and in preparation for casual autocross. All of my racing experience is in tuning off-road buggy coilovers, with the only commonality being a mid-engine layout. Almost everything I say here is a paraphrasing of what other people who know more than I do have said in this forum. Depends a lot on suspension height/stiffness, but 0 toe front, 0-0.1deg toe in at the rear seems to be the norm in most threads, 1.5deg camber front and 2.0deg rear is a decent place to start at stock ride height/stiffness for safe/neutral handling. If it understeers, give it more front camber and if it oversteers add rear camber. Check tire wear after a session and adjust accordingly. I've heard of people running 3 or more degrees all around, so feel free to experiment with broad angles. As a MacPherson Strut car, lowering the Boxster introduces a substantial amount of negative camber, so keep that in mind when adjusting. If you're running square tires, you may want to upgrade the front sway bar, otherwise you'll either oversteer a lot or eat up the front tire shoulders. To the best of my understanding, you want a little more camber at the rear than the front, about half a degree difference, to keep it neutral. More difference front/back for a tight car, and equal if you like a loose car. Porsche killed terminal oversteer properties by giving the Boxster narrow front tires and a lot of camber at the rear. That means that you get great front-end response under low-G, quick input where the front tires are upright and the rears are angled, but as you load up it turns to understeer, as the rear tires lean into their thread and the fronts lean out of theirs. If you widen the front tires AND camber out the front tires, you'll be essentially double-dipping into the oversteer sauce, so just tread carefully when testing, these cars can be made to spin like a top if mishandled. And of course, if someone else who actually races says something that contradicts me, take their word over mine. Last edited by S50Sinner; 08-29-2024 at 07:24 AM.