|
So here's an update. Maybe I'm done... I might keep working on this, but things are better now. Thanks guys so much for pointing me in the right direction.
I didn't have as much time to look at things as I'd hoped, so I kinda did things out of order.
First night I connected the car to a durametric, and found that the alarm system was reporting error 34--the passenger compartment sensor was grounding and malfunctioning. So I immediately removed it. That's the thing I did out of order lol. It's likely that this thing was causing all the drain. I should note that the last couple years, my alarm would go off spontaneously on super hot days. I think this was the sign that the compartment sensor was dying a slow death... but i never looked into it.
Next day I did a proper parasitic draw test by actuating the hood latch with a screwdriver, then putting my multimeter in line with battery ground and keeping it connected while removing the battery ground cable from the battery. Car was locked (no honk...). Draw was 120mA.
So to my knowledge... 120mA is too high. Idk, is it? I think should be closer to 80? Maybe I'm splitting hairs here. At this point, I ran out of time, but I figured I would disconnect the fuse for the alarm system to see what would happen (fuse C3). Parasitic drain dropped to 90mA. Plugged it back in and let the car sit overnight.
Oh I also unplugged my aftermarket radio and saw that it made no change to parasitic draw. So that's good.
Then this morning I started the car after it had sat all night. It def started, had the juice. But was a little slow to start. I'm worried maybe it's just that the pc680 doesn't have enough cranking amps to really start the engine super quick... that or the parasitic draw is still a little too high. Will prob go thru the fuses today to see if anything can get me back down to <80mA.
|