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11 years late on this post, but I'll leave what I've come up with for posterity. I had the same issue: Clutch engagement was not smooth and in-turn causing what felt like wheel hop when moving from a complete stop-- especially in rain or on painted lines. Brake fluid was not running low, so I wrote it off as neither a bad master or slave cylinder. Then, I bled the system and it got better for a short period of time.
Turns out there was a small leak at the feed and pressurized lines on the master. I replaced the master and slave then bled, result was a completely different clutch feel which has been sustained.
Tips for master/slave replacement:
1. A pressure bleeder is necessary to do a proper bleed. A vacuum will not work well on the nipple on the slave. Bleed it longer than you think as well.
2. There are two different connections for the slave/master pipes on the 986. Find out which type you have to avoid ordering the wrong part.
3. Replacing the master requires contortion unless you remove the seat, and even still its an upside-down job.
4. Replacing the slave is easier if you have no cats or remove the metal plate under the transmission. It will still require you to maintain ~50lb of force, with one hand, at an odd angle while you use the other to try and thread the bolt. It's a bad time. I found the easiest angle of attack to be from a creeper with my head under the engine and legs under the muffler. DO NOT connect the hydraulic line before the slave is bolted in.
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