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Old 11-29-2022, 07:52 PM   #14
professorman
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: va
Posts: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by irogag View Post
If you are talented with soldering (or just decent at it) and electrical troubleshooting; please attempt the following "Irogag's Sure-fire Immob Recondition":


9) Apply the necessary voltage to the necessary 2 pins on each relay, R1 to R7. Take your time and look up each part # on the web to know what voltage to apply. I used just a regular voltage power supply which let me vary the voltage as required.
10) As you apply voltage, check the contacts with an ohmmeter. A open should always be O.L. or >1 Meg-Ohm. A close should always be < 0.5 Ohms. Any readings besides these mean the relay is suspect. I applied it with a direct voltage right on solder side of the board. Alternately, you can use a magnetic to move the contacts but be warned this may not detect all issues using a magnet alone. It's best to test with actual voltage similar to what the car is putting out.
11) For 'double pole' relays check both poles and both contacts on each pole. Check the N.O. is open with no power. Check the N.O. closes with power. Check the N.C. is closed with no power. Check the N.C. is open with power. It sounds obvious, I know, but you really must carefully check each pin on those relays to prove they work. My issue was with a N.O. contact staying open, no matter what I did to the relay on R1.
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Can you elaborate on how to test the relays? Do I test them from the underside?

Eg. One of my relays are: V23072-C1061-A108 ++ 24311
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