Quote:
Originally Posted by Homeoboxter
Dissimilar wear on the two pads is normal. Depending on the rpm and the related position of the actuator one of the pads gets more pressure than the other. I think depending on what rpm range you use the car the most determines which pad will wear more.
As long as you don`t remove the tensioners on the other bank and everything is timed and obviosly you don`t remove the IMS flange, it`s safe to rotate the crankshaft if you removed the camshafts. Just make sure you hold the chain tight so it won`t get jammed in the crankcase.
The colored links need to be set only at assembly. If you want to check timing you need to look at the positions of the camshaft marks relative to TDC.
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Okay thank you for the guidance.. I turned the crank about 180, checked cyl 4 again with the bore scope and I think that was a false alarm.. looks a bit different when the camera is not right on the top of the piston.
Still dirty, but I really am not sure I would know if it is good / bad / indifferent.. My plan was not to remove the heads unless I found something that required it, guess I will stick with the plan so far.
I then continued around another 180 and relocked TDC for bank 1. I did not get as far as pulling the cover and cams on bank 1, I realized I was going to have to get it off the cart I had it on to get to the chain tensioner at the bottom so I got it mounted on my engine stand. Hopefully I will find some time to get into bank 1 this weekend, dying to know if I am going to find anything.
The more I research the more I see discussion on various ticking type noises being related to failed chain tensioners. I was planning on replacing all three as part of this especially since I heard a couple of chain slap startups over the prior year (separate from the noise in the video which just appeared and is constant). Anyone think my noise might be tensioner related?