986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - View Single Post - Howling Noise From Fuel Cap Area: Replacing the Carbon Control Valve

Banana S · 04-12-2021, 07:44 PM

I did this fix on my car this evening--replacing the fuel tank vapor control valve to get rid of what has been described as the "blowing over a bottle" noise, the "train whistle," or the "howling noise from the gas cap area." I replaced the same part as the OP--P/N 996.605.213.01--and it seems to have solved the problem for me. Based on the OP's DIY instructions above, though, I suspect I had a much easier time completing this project, for five reasons.

First, you definitely want to remove the fender liner. Doing so gives you the ability to reach around under the fender with your left hand while you're pulling the solenoid out (or pushing it back in) through the headlight opening with your right hand.

Second, remove the two 12mm (?) bolts that hold the bracket for the solenoids to the body of the car. That allows you to drop the whole assembly down a few inches and gives you additional room to pull out the old solenoid and push in the new one. It also gives you room to fit a full-size hex screwdriver in there to remove the hex screw that holds the bracket for the solenoids in place.

Third, by doing the step above, I eliminated the need to remove the solenoid that I WAS NOT replacing. For that solenoid, I left it in place and just removed its electrical connection.

Fourth, I added a little water-based lubricant to the O-rings on the new solenoid to help it slide in easier.

And fifth, and most important, I noted that the solenoid has an index protrusion, which means it only fits in one way. (You can see it at the bottom of the white part of the solenoid in the last photo above.) I suspect that the OP wasn't getting the protrusion lined up properly with the slot in the opening that the solenoid fits into, which is why the new solenoid wasn't going in easily for him. I didn't have much difficulty at all getting it pushed into place once I figured that out.

All in all, the actual solenoid replacement took maybe 10 minutes, total, once I got the fender liner out and removed the headlight assembly.

A big thanks to the OP for tackling this project and making this DIY. Hopefully my additions here will make the project go even more smoothly for the next person who follows the DIY. (Especially if, like me, they don't have a trained chimpanzee.

)

04-12-2021, 07:44 PM	#3
Banana S Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Indiana Posts: 179	I did this fix on my car this evening--replacing the fuel tank vapor control valve to get rid of what has been described as the "blowing over a bottle" noise, the "train whistle," or the "howling noise from the gas cap area." I replaced the same part as the OP--P/N 996.605.213.01--and it seems to have solved the problem for me. Based on the OP's DIY instructions above, though, I suspect I had a much easier time completing this project, for five reasons. First, you definitely want to remove the fender liner. Doing so gives you the ability to reach around under the fender with your left hand while you're pulling the solenoid out (or pushing it back in) through the headlight opening with your right hand. Second, remove the two 12mm (?) bolts that hold the bracket for the solenoids to the body of the car. That allows you to drop the whole assembly down a few inches and gives you additional room to pull out the old solenoid and push in the new one. It also gives you room to fit a full-size hex screwdriver in there to remove the hex screw that holds the bracket for the solenoids in place. Third, by doing the step above, I eliminated the need to remove the solenoid that I WAS NOT replacing. For that solenoid, I left it in place and just removed its electrical connection. Fourth, I added a little water-based lubricant to the O-rings on the new solenoid to help it slide in easier. And fifth, and most important, I noted that the solenoid has an index protrusion, which means it only fits in one way. (You can see it at the bottom of the white part of the solenoid in the last photo above.) I suspect that the OP wasn't getting the protrusion lined up properly with the slot in the opening that the solenoid fits into, which is why the new solenoid wasn't going in easily for him. I didn't have much difficulty at all getting it pushed into place once I figured that out. All in all, the actual solenoid replacement took maybe 10 minutes, total, once I got the fender liner out and removed the headlight assembly. A big thanks to the OP for tackling this project and making this DIY. Hopefully my additions here will make the project go even more smoothly for the next person who follows the DIY. (Especially if, like me, they don't have a trained chimpanzee. ) __________________ 2002 Boxster S, 6 speed, Speed Yellow Flat Six Innovations 3.8L Stage II Track Performer, RoW M030 Suspension, B&M Short Shift Kit, Fabspeed Bypass Pipes, FVD Brombacher "Sound Version" Muffler, UD Pulley, Low Temp T-Stat. Last edited by Banana S; 04-13-2021 at 07:43 AM.