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ddruker · 03-23-2021, 06:26 PM

I received the IMS and RMS parts and tools from LN Engineering last night. Today I installed both the new IMS bearing and the new rear main seal. There are no instructions included with the LN Engineering kit - so I downloaded the instructions for the dual bearing replacement from their website, and I figured out the RMS installation from posts here.

I installed the cam lock on the left side lower cam on the back of the motor - I had to rotate the engine one more time after my first attempt to get the cam notches lining up properly. One extra spin got everything to line up correctly at TDC.

I really just had one wrinkle - it was cold in my garage this morning - probably 45 degrees - when I installed the new bearing, which was about 5 degrees after sitting in my freezer overnight. The new bearing didn't just fall into the hole - I am guessing the temperature differential wasn't enough for this - so I had to tap it in using the provided installation tool.

Here's the wrinkle - when I tapped the new bearing in, the IMS shaft moved around a bit - it wanted to sit in the upper right of its hole, not in the center of the opening.

To fix, I removed the third chain tensioner, which is just below the air conditioning compressor which is in turn behind the drivers seat. This gave me enough play that I could ease the shaft back into the center and get the new IMS cover to seal.

I had to run to home depot and get a short 32mm socket to get to the third chain tensioner - it's pretty tight to get to it. I couldn't easily get a wrench in the opening, and my existing 32mm socket is a tall one.

After this everything went smoothly. The RMS installation tool is pretty self explanatory - clean the crank and the bore with lacquer thinner or acetone, mount the new seal with it's blue plastic holder on the lower section of the pressing tool, then bolt the lower section to the crank face, and then install the top pusher section on top - then turning the set screw pulls the upper section in, eventually pushing the new seal into it's opening. Crank until the tool bottoms out, and the top of the seal ends up 13mm below the crankshaft face.

The rest of the process for buttoning up the engine is clearly explained in the LN Engineering instructions and went without drama.

I also replaced all four of the rear engine casing bolts with new encapsulated bolts as called for in the service manual.

Last step before calling it a day was to remount the flex plate. Remember to get all new bolts for this one, use q-tip to get some blue locktite into the mounting holes, and follow the two step torque instructions in the service manual.

Once my 3 foot chunk of 18mm id x 25mm od coolant tubing for the transmission oil cooler arrives, I can cut out four pieces to replace the existing short connector sections of rubber hose on the tip, and then I can move on to reinstalling the transmission. Once that's done, getting back on the road is all downhill.

03-23-2021, 06:26 PM	#18
ddruker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Palo Alto, California Posts: 59	I received the IMS and RMS parts and tools from LN Engineering last night. Today I installed both the new IMS bearing and the new rear main seal. There are no instructions included with the LN Engineering kit - so I downloaded the instructions for the dual bearing replacement from their website, and I figured out the RMS installation from posts here. I installed the cam lock on the left side lower cam on the back of the motor - I had to rotate the engine one more time after my first attempt to get the cam notches lining up properly. One extra spin got everything to line up correctly at TDC. I really just had one wrinkle - it was cold in my garage this morning - probably 45 degrees - when I installed the new bearing, which was about 5 degrees after sitting in my freezer overnight. The new bearing didn't just fall into the hole - I am guessing the temperature differential wasn't enough for this - so I had to tap it in using the provided installation tool. Here's the wrinkle - when I tapped the new bearing in, the IMS shaft moved around a bit - it wanted to sit in the upper right of its hole, not in the center of the opening. To fix, I removed the third chain tensioner, which is just below the air conditioning compressor which is in turn behind the drivers seat. This gave me enough play that I could ease the shaft back into the center and get the new IMS cover to seal. I had to run to home depot and get a short 32mm socket to get to the third chain tensioner - it's pretty tight to get to it. I couldn't easily get a wrench in the opening, and my existing 32mm socket is a tall one. After this everything went smoothly. The RMS installation tool is pretty self explanatory - clean the crank and the bore with lacquer thinner or acetone, mount the new seal with it's blue plastic holder on the lower section of the pressing tool, then bolt the lower section to the crank face, and then install the top pusher section on top - then turning the set screw pulls the upper section in, eventually pushing the new seal into it's opening. Crank until the tool bottoms out, and the top of the seal ends up 13mm below the crankshaft face. The rest of the process for buttoning up the engine is clearly explained in the LN Engineering instructions and went without drama. I also replaced all four of the rear engine casing bolts with new encapsulated bolts as called for in the service manual. Last step before calling it a day was to remount the flex plate. Remember to get all new bolts for this one, use q-tip to get some blue locktite into the mounting holes, and follow the two step torque instructions in the service manual. Once my 3 foot chunk of 18mm id x 25mm od coolant tubing for the transmission oil cooler arrives, I can cut out four pieces to replace the existing short connector sections of rubber hose on the tip, and then I can move on to reinstalling the transmission. Once that's done, getting back on the road is all downhill.