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ddruker · 03-14-2021, 04:04 PM

Thanks to all of your advice, I started on this project yesterday - I will be replacing the rear main seal, and evaluating the IMS bearing. I understand if I find either that I already have an LN bearing, or if I see a double row factory bearing, it's probably ok to leave the bearing as is.

I'm taking a short break now as my next step is the final removal step of unbolting the transmission from the engine.

So far everything has gone smoothly. I own a quickjack which is a godsend for this project. Specially for this project, I went to the local harbor freight and picked up an engine support bar, and a transmission scissors jack. Together both of these items cost about $200. I also needed a triple square 10mm bit to remove the funky bolt at the bottom of the transmission - I bought a set of these from Amazon for $15. The only other special tool I needed so far was a length of 5/16 stainless steel rod which I bought from amazon and cut down to 6" to use to lock the transfer case in place -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FG1M80S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The hardest / least obvious parts of removing the tip so far are:

Removing the muffler. It's easy to see the bolts that attach the muffler mount to the back of the transmission, but I couldn't figure out how to get to the top bolt on the mount. The solution I ended up with was to remove the rear bumper cover, and then the rear bumper cross member. The bumper cross member and heat shield come off together, which exposes otherwise hidden bolts that attach the top of the muffler to the muffler mount from above. Once the muffler is out, you have easy access to the bolts that attach the mount to the transmission.

Removing the passenger side post cat oxygen sensor wiring harness. I just couldn't get the wiring harness clip off. So instead I removed the cat, and unscrewed the oxygen sensor from the cat and just left the sensor hanging. Later after I removed the cross-bar I had better access to get to the wiring harness connector to unclip it.

Removing the passenger side transmission mount - the top bolt is hidden way up in there behind the transmission oil cooler. It took just the right length of socket and extension to fit in the very small cavity you have to work with.

Getting off the transmission oil cooler hoses without destroying them. They were sure stuck on tight! I think I will just replace the short lengths of hose to be safe.

The other minor non-obvious part of the job so far was disconnecting the end of the transmission selector linkage. It turns out this is just a ball joint that you pop straight up and out. It wasn't documented in the service manual how to disconnect it.

I can already see a few maintenance items to do on the transmission while it is out - new drivers side output shaft seal for a tiny leak, new band for the drivers side inner CV joint which is also just barely leaking, may replace the transmission oil cooler o-rings just for fun, replace the transmission mounts while the whole thing is out.

03-14-2021, 04:04 PM	#10
ddruker Registered User Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: Palo Alto, California Posts: 59	Thanks to all of your advice, I started on this project yesterday - I will be replacing the rear main seal, and evaluating the IMS bearing. I understand if I find either that I already have an LN bearing, or if I see a double row factory bearing, it's probably ok to leave the bearing as is. I'm taking a short break now as my next step is the final removal step of unbolting the transmission from the engine. So far everything has gone smoothly. I own a quickjack which is a godsend for this project. Specially for this project, I went to the local harbor freight and picked up an engine support bar, and a transmission scissors jack. Together both of these items cost about $200. I also needed a triple square 10mm bit to remove the funky bolt at the bottom of the transmission - I bought a set of these from Amazon for $15. The only other special tool I needed so far was a length of 5/16 stainless steel rod which I bought from amazon and cut down to 6" to use to lock the transfer case in place -> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FG1M80S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The hardest / least obvious parts of removing the tip so far are: Removing the muffler. It's easy to see the bolts that attach the muffler mount to the back of the transmission, but I couldn't figure out how to get to the top bolt on the mount. The solution I ended up with was to remove the rear bumper cover, and then the rear bumper cross member. The bumper cross member and heat shield come off together, which exposes otherwise hidden bolts that attach the top of the muffler to the muffler mount from above. Once the muffler is out, you have easy access to the bolts that attach the mount to the transmission. Removing the passenger side post cat oxygen sensor wiring harness. I just couldn't get the wiring harness clip off. So instead I removed the cat, and unscrewed the oxygen sensor from the cat and just left the sensor hanging. Later after I removed the cross-bar I had better access to get to the wiring harness connector to unclip it. Removing the passenger side transmission mount - the top bolt is hidden way up in there behind the transmission oil cooler. It took just the right length of socket and extension to fit in the very small cavity you have to work with. Getting off the transmission oil cooler hoses without destroying them. They were sure stuck on tight! I think I will just replace the short lengths of hose to be safe. The other minor non-obvious part of the job so far was disconnecting the end of the transmission selector linkage. It turns out this is just a ball joint that you pop straight up and out. It wasn't documented in the service manual how to disconnect it. I can already see a few maintenance items to do on the transmission while it is out - new drivers side output shaft seal for a tiny leak, new band for the drivers side inner CV joint which is also just barely leaking, may replace the transmission oil cooler o-rings just for fun, replace the transmission mounts while the whole thing is out. Last edited by ddruker; 03-14-2021 at 05:47 PM.