[ike84]

I use a 22' full tilt trailer to haul mine. The incline that these cars can approach at stock height is not very much, even less when lowered, and you have to be very careful with loading and unloading. I would definitely not use a flat trailer with short ramps for fear of hanging up in the middle. Same goes for a short tilt that has a high angle, unless you're looking for an excuse to upgrade to a gt3 bumper lol

In terms of straps, overkill is always better. Either place one strap over each wheel and tighten to the deck, or use one strap across the front suspension and another across the back. If doing this technique, attach the straps to the deck forward and rear of the car to "stretch" it as you tighten. Place the straps over hard suspension elements and make sure to not torque anything during the process. Tighten until the tires start to appear loaded. Drive around the block, get out, and retigthten everything. Don't forget to do this!!! Youll be surprised how much things will shift even after you had straps so tight you thought they would break! Only at that point do I put the car in first gear and apply the ebrake.

When I haul, I use the 3" yellow straps rated to 3333lbs, one in front and one in back, and check everything frequently along the drive. Never use worn or faded straps, they can be bought new for cheap. I've never had any problems with this technique and have never had any alignment issues afterward. This was taught to me but a guy who hauls car professionally and I do the se regardless whether it's the boxster, my wife's escalade, or a big ass tractor (except I use chains on the tractor, but that's off topic)

Three other things. First, have someone to spot you. You want to be dead center on the trailer side to side and also just in front of the rear axle. This is not so easy to do first time in a 10deg grade. Second, be aware that unless the trailer is a deck over (which very few are) or is super long you are likely going to have to crawl out the window because of the clearance between door and wheel well. Use the key in the door lock to raise the windows after you've done this.

Lastly, and this is the most important, always remember that the key to safe towing is BRAKING, not power. Any vehicle is capable of towing. The key is BRAKING! I personally would be very cautious about hauling a 4000#+ load with a half ton truck. I know that it is withing the GVWR posting of the truck, but you have to remember that number applies to the suspension only. It will get the job done but just be careful. Make sure your pads are new and brake fluid is topped off, and stick to the "one car length per 10mph" rule. I know I sound like an old man here but it's not worth risking your life and $50k worth of equipment to half ass safety during such a long trip.


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Edit - don't forget to verify that your truck has a brake controller installed. On my wife's escalade there's a "tow mode" and there is a 6pin wiring plug next to the factory installed 2" receiver, but GM never installed an actual brake controller on that vehicle (even though the wiring to do so was installed by the factory!). If yours doesn't have one I would strongly suggest installing one. I installed a Curt TriFlex controller in hers and I think it works very well.