986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners - View Single Post - Quick PSA: Power Steering hose (replacement) and headers

imhighlander · 05-02-2020, 05:04 PM

When installing new aftermarket headers, pay very careful attention to ensure there’s adequate clearance for your high pressure power steering hose! I don’t know if I bumped it somehow and knocked it out of a retaining clip or if the header geometry is such that it runs closer to the hose but either way, I ended up melting a hole in my high pressure line and losing all my Pentosin at pressure all over my hot headers. A bit of heavy smoke and an oiled-down belly later, I got to experience the removal and reinstallation of this rather pesky item. I haven’t seen a writeup on the process of removing this hose, so I figured I’d share what I learned.

The high pressure power steering (P/S) hose is a combination rubber and hard line hose that connects the power steering pump to the steering rack. The hose is attached by brass fittings at the pump and at the hard line that runs to the PS rack and has two rubber mounts that allow the hose to be held in place near the A/C compressor.

Tools you’ll need:

Jack/jack stands
10mm socket & T30 socket (to remove splash guards and to remove front (cabin) engine access panel)
13mm socket with universal/swivel joint (to remove P/S pump pulley and A/C compressor mounting bolts x3)
15mm open end wrenches (to disconnect P/S hose from line to rack)
16mm open end wrench (to disconnect line from P/S pump)
A new P/S hose
Pentosin P/S fluid
Patience
Beer. I recommend a craft Colorado or Wyoming IPA.

You’ll need the left rear wheel off the vehicle and remove the splash guard/fender liner (2 10mm plastic nuts) to get as much access to the front of the engine as possible. The P/S hose runs on the left side of the vehicle and, at least in my case, runs very near the left header. If you’re reading this, you probably already know you have to have the top in “service position” and you have to have the engine access panels open. You’ll need to loosen the lugs on the left rear wheel, jack up the car, and safely secure it on jack stands.

Remove the pulley from the power steering pump. Three bolts; I think they were 13mm.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Loosen/remove all three bolts that hold the air conditioner compressor in place. There are two that are easy to see/access from the service panel in the cabin; the third bolt is buried under the left side intake manifold between cylinders 4 &5. (You need to have the A/C compressor loose so you can lift it up just enough to work the power steering hose out once it’s all loose.)
Get a drip pan and some paper towels to catch any drips from the P/S line you’re about to remove.
Working under the car, disconnect the hose’s hard line from the hard line that runs to the steering rack. This fitting is located behind a plastic guard under the left side (N/A driver side) door. The hose’s hard line is held in place by a 15mm brass fitting. Counter hold the 15mm fitting to the hard line that goes to the rack. Be careful not to round the fitting; they’re a little soft. There will likely be some drips from the hose and from the line that runs to the rack.
Back in the cabin, now disconnect the P/S line from the P/S pump. This is a 16mm fitting.
With the hose disconnected from the pump and from the rack, lift the A/C compressor as much as possible and start to wiggle/work the hard P/S line “outboard” to free the rubber “slip grommets” out of their brackets. Be patient, but diligent.
Once the hose is fully disconnected, keep wiggling and working it from under the A/Co compressor until it’s free. Getting the hose fully out of the vehicle takes a bit of effort. I found it easiest to work the hose loose from below the car so the lower section of the hose and line are free of the suspension, exhaust, etc. and then work the house out from inside the cabin. I ended up pulling the whole thing out through the engine access/service panel in the cabin.

My replacement hose hasn’t arrived yet but I’m hoping installation is pretty much the reverse procedure.

A word to the wise, pay careful attention to anything that may come into contact with your headers. I had been super careful in routing my O2 sensors but in so doing, I must’ve bumped something (or simply didn’t pay attention) that caused my high pressure power steering hose to self-immolate on the exhaust. I hope this helps someone either avoid the mistake I made, or at least navigate the process.

The hose-to-rack junction below the left door (two 15mm wrenches needed):

hose-to-PS pump connection (16mm wrench needed):

Get a little clearance by removing the A/C bolts. (three 13mm bolts, including one buried under the intake manifold):

Here's the hose out, in all its (expensive) glory:

And here's what happens when rubber hose meets a hot header:

05-02-2020, 05:04 PM	#1
imhighlander Registered User Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Evergreen, CO Posts: 108	Quick PSA: Power Steering hose (replacement) and headers When installing new aftermarket headers, pay very careful attention to ensure there’s adequate clearance for your high pressure power steering hose! I don’t know if I bumped it somehow and knocked it out of a retaining clip or if the header geometry is such that it runs closer to the hose but either way, I ended up melting a hole in my high pressure line and losing all my Pentosin at pressure all over my hot headers. A bit of heavy smoke and an oiled-down belly later, I got to experience the removal and reinstallation of this rather pesky item. I haven’t seen a writeup on the process of removing this hose, so I figured I’d share what I learned. The high pressure power steering (P/S) hose is a combination rubber and hard line hose that connects the power steering pump to the steering rack. The hose is attached by brass fittings at the pump and at the hard line that runs to the PS rack and has two rubber mounts that allow the hose to be held in place near the A/C compressor. Tools you’ll need: Jack/jack stands 10mm socket & T30 socket (to remove splash guards and to remove front (cabin) engine access panel) 13mm socket with universal/swivel joint (to remove P/S pump pulley and A/C compressor mounting bolts x3) 15mm open end wrenches (to disconnect P/S hose from line to rack) 16mm open end wrench (to disconnect line from P/S pump) A new P/S hose Pentosin P/S fluid Patience Beer. I recommend a craft Colorado or Wyoming IPA. You’ll need the left rear wheel off the vehicle and remove the splash guard/fender liner (2 10mm plastic nuts) to get as much access to the front of the engine as possible. The P/S hose runs on the left side of the vehicle and, at least in my case, runs very near the left header. If you’re reading this, you probably already know you have to have the top in “service position” and you have to have the engine access panels open. You’ll need to loosen the lugs on the left rear wheel, jack up the car, and safely secure it on jack stands. Remove the pulley from the power steering pump. Three bolts; I think they were 13mm. Remove the serpentine belt. Loosen/remove all three bolts that hold the air conditioner compressor in place. There are two that are easy to see/access from the service panel in the cabin; the third bolt is buried under the left side intake manifold between cylinders 4 &5. (You need to have the A/C compressor loose so you can lift it up just enough to work the power steering hose out once it’s all loose.) Get a drip pan and some paper towels to catch any drips from the P/S line you’re about to remove. Working under the car, disconnect the hose’s hard line from the hard line that runs to the steering rack. This fitting is located behind a plastic guard under the left side (N/A driver side) door. The hose’s hard line is held in place by a 15mm brass fitting. Counter hold the 15mm fitting to the hard line that goes to the rack. Be careful not to round the fitting; they’re a little soft. There will likely be some drips from the hose and from the line that runs to the rack. Back in the cabin, now disconnect the P/S line from the P/S pump. This is a 16mm fitting. With the hose disconnected from the pump and from the rack, lift the A/C compressor as much as possible and start to wiggle/work the hard P/S line “outboard” to free the rubber “slip grommets” out of their brackets. Be patient, but diligent. Once the hose is fully disconnected, keep wiggling and working it from under the A/Co compressor until it’s free. Getting the hose fully out of the vehicle takes a bit of effort. I found it easiest to work the hose loose from below the car so the lower section of the hose and line are free of the suspension, exhaust, etc. and then work the house out from inside the cabin. I ended up pulling the whole thing out through the engine access/service panel in the cabin. My replacement hose hasn’t arrived yet but I’m hoping installation is pretty much the reverse procedure. A word to the wise, pay careful attention to anything that may come into contact with your headers. I had been super careful in routing my O2 sensors but in so doing, I must’ve bumped something (or simply didn’t pay attention) that caused my high pressure power steering hose to self-immolate on the exhaust. I hope this helps someone either avoid the mistake I made, or at least navigate the process. The hose-to-rack junction below the left door (two 15mm wrenches needed): hose-to-PS pump connection (16mm wrench needed): Get a little clearance by removing the A/C bolts. (three 13mm bolts, including one buried under the intake manifold): Here's the hose out, in all its (expensive) glory: And here's what happens when rubber hose meets a hot header: