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Old 02-27-2020, 02:50 PM   #55
ddruker
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Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Palo Alto, California
Posts: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gelbster View Post
Thanks for the description.
With the benefit of hindsight , do you think it would have been better to have removed the inlet manifold ? I ask because that is the method proposed in some of the links/videos.


The need to source all the hoses and barbed brass connectors can take a while so to others who are contemplating this job- be prepared for a hiatus.
Once you've done the job, be ready for another delay while the electronics take their sweet time/miles before the Fault Codes all disappear.
So do this job waaay ahead of your Smog Test.

The parts from Amazon all showed up within a couple of days. The exact parts I purchased from Amazon were:

  • uxcell 6mm or 1/4 inches ID Brass Barb Splicer Fitting 4 Ways Brass Cross Barb Fitting Air Gas Water Fuel,2pcs
  • Legines Brass Hose Barb Y-shaped Tee, 3/16" T Union, Barbed Tube Pipe Fitting, Coupler Connector Adapter 2 pcs
  • LTWFITTING Brass Barb Splicer Mender 3/16" Hose ID Fitting Air Water Fuel Boat( Pack of 10 )
  • uxcell Steel Band Clamp 8mm for Fuel Line Silicone Hose Tube Spring Clips Clamp Silver Manganese Steel 20Pcs
  • High Performance Silicone Vacuum Tubing Hose, ID 0.16" (4mm), OD 0.35" (9mm), 10 Feet per roll (3 Meter), Black 60 psi Maximum Pressure


It's very hard for me to answer your hindsight question. I went the alternator route because I had already replaced the air oil separator on my box, which required me to remove all of the hoses connected to the AOS plus the throttle body and the cross-tube - so I felt comfortable taking those components off again. Removing the alternator was easy - and I didn't come close to breaking anything during that part of the job.



I was worried about removing the intake manifold and potentially breaking more stuff only because I have never had the manifold off before - but doing so would definitely make this project easier, by giving much better access to the vacuum reservoir, the switch and the air injection valve and all the plumbing that sit underneath it.



I hope this helps. I guess the net is that if you are comfortable removing the intake manifold, and you can see how to get access to all of the bolts holding it onto the engine block from above, then that would be easier. If you have to take the alternator out to get the manifold off, then removing the manifold is a redundant step.
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