Maytag
I don't want to hijack your thread, but here's a quick summary.
I lost a motor almost 2 years ago and ended up buying a used 3.2 motor with 30K miles. It ended up being a factory rebuilt with the big IMS bearing. The only thing I did to the bearing during install was remove the outer seal for better oil lubrication. I also installed a 2L Accusump in the center tunnel (yes it fits, but it's tight) because I didn't want it in the trunk. From what I know, here are the traditional quick things that can be done to reduce the oiling system starvation:
* Add oil volume. Most install a deep oil sump plate with 0.5 to 2L extra oil. I did not want to do this as my car was lowered. So my oil pan is stock. There is debate on how effective this is.
* Replace the factory plastic oil baffles with the EBS style improved metal baffles. I installed this in my stock oil sump plate.
You could also install a remote oil filter if you wanted. I did this so I could use synthetic media oil filters and racing filters. This also gives you the possibility of adding in thermostatic oil cooling, but I did not do this as the stock Boxster S oil cooler does a pretty good job.
Ideally, a dry-sump system would be the best, and I believe Cervelli has developed one, but I think it is pretty expensive still. So short of that, I believe that an oil accumulator will help tremendously (i.e. Accusump, but there are others). The idea is to have pressurized oil released into the oiling system when the oil pressure is low (such as when there is starvation at the oil pump pick up). So if you are not wheel to wheel racing and don't mind the extra 10-15 lbs or so, that is the way to go. It also adds another 1.5 quart or so of oil. Another thing to note is that I like to use filters that have the anti-drainback flapper. I also use a check valve. This is absolutely necessary since without at least one of these, you will loose the benefit of the Accusump.
I also have installed a toggle switch to manually turn on the front radiator fans to help reduce the coolant temp (and that reduces oil temp). I run the fans mostly during the entire session and then after the session for 5 minutes or so or until the oil temp drop below 200F (I have an oil temp and oil pressure gage setup).
You can pull up my YouTube channel (
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCI3kmU0mGhymRMFM1l-4uKw?view_as=subscriber) and I have documented various track day setups with data logging analysis to show that the best setup is to just run the Accusump with a remotely operated manual ball valve or an electrically operated solenoid valve that stays open during the track session. But for me, the issue was also that I wanted to also have the pre-oiling capability for reducing cold starting related wear, so I went with Canton's EPC valve, but I added a switch for the ability to bypass the pressure switch. This last step is crucial as the pressure switch and solenoid valve induce an unacceptable lag time in supplying oil under pressure. So I just wait until I start rolling onto the track and I then open the valve with a toggle switch. I have a ton of data showing a huge reduction in oil pressure drop spikes, effectively smoothing out the oil pressure.
I also keep my oil level at full or even 1 bar above full, but that varies depending on how full the Accusump is. Just make sure your AOS is working or get the Motorsports version. This entire season, I did not even have to use a full quart of oil to top off, so I know the motor is tight.
Anyways, if you are considering a similar setup, I can PM you the info.
Hope this helps, and hope your engine is not completely dead
