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Quadcammer · 02-20-2019, 07:07 AM

ok here goes. Might be a bit rambly.

General steps:

1. Drain pressure from fuel lines, remove battery cables, remove stock intake plenums, all associated vacuum lines, harness connections, and fuel rails. Be super careful with the AOS hose if you plan to reuse. Its a biatch to get in or out and if you flex it, it will crack.
2. Remove SAI pump if you haven't already done so to get plenums out.
3. Remove AOS
4. Remove Alternator and loosen a/ compressor.
5. Clean and vacuum areas in question, making sure to stuff towels or similar in intake ports
6. Mark, drill (5.5mm) and tap (m6x1x15mm depth) your holes. My holes were not perfectly located so I had to hog out aluminum intake risers. Not perfect, but good enough.
7. bolt down lowers with new steel gasket (make sure to slot gasket holes if you had to widen intake holes). Retighten a/c compressor and reinstall alternator
8. I used a 3/4" hose with hose spring to prevent collapse to replace that dreaded AOS hose. That will slot through the holes in the aluminum riser. I ended up using the 45 degree angle AOS connector from the upper AOS hose to make the angle better on the lower AOS fitting, but I don't think its necessary.
9. cut tabs off stock fuel rail, use rubber clamps with longer m6 bolt and nut to hold rail in place. On my model year, the regulator side rails is bigger than the other side oddly enough. Could not tell you why, but clamps will need to be sized accordingly (i used 3/4" clamps and slotted and shortened them as necessary.
10. bolt down fuel rail being cautious about how fuel lines are run.
11. Lower the motor by at least 1.25" using spacers. I ended up using some thick washers along with my spacers to make a more solid lowering arrangement. Any less than this and the damn passenger side plenum hits the body. At 1.25", its close, but it clears. I lowered the tranny about .25" by using spacers above the triangle brackets that hold the tranny. This is only possible with aftermarket mounts.
12. Cut the vacuum hose on the drivers side with the slide on connection. Run 5/8" hose with hose spring from the remaining line to the slide on connector piece to make a splice. The hose spring is necessary to prevent the hose from collapsing. Clamp with regular hose clamps, but don't go nuts
13. Route all your vacuum lines as necessary. You have the one from the fuel pressure regulator and one from the SAI (with check valve (blow in it to confirm which side goes where)) that go into the crossover boots so be mindful there.
14.Remember to hook up your crossover flap vac lines and electrical connector
15. Bolt on your upper plenums with new gaskets. 7.5 foot lbs on all intake bolts. Don't torque these yet, leave them in but loose.
15. squeeze in the crossover tubes. much easier with upper plenums installed but not bolted down hard
16. Install all remaining ancillaries, tighten all clamps, secure plenums, zip tie or otherwise secure wiring harnesses, etc etc.
17. I had to shorten my custom intake tube to make the angle better. Maybe 1" cut off did the trick.

Honestly, the hard part and long part was waiting for parts and trying to do stuff without removing nearby things that just made life harder.

Pro-tip, if you think it might be easier to do something with something else removed, just do it. wasting time trying to sort it out with the thing in the way will just frustrate

Pro-tip 2: Don't tighten much of anything until you have everything in place (does not apply to aluminum risers). Basically the upper plenums, hose clamps on the crossover, etc should stay loose till you're ready for final tightening.

Pro-tip 3: Upon start up, check for vacuum leaks and particularly fuel leaks. Have fire extinguisher handy. Luckily I had none of either.

Tools: drill, metric drill set with 5.5mm bit, m6x1 tap, drill block (optional, i probably would not use again), 90 degree drill bit holder the accepts round bits, variety of hand tools, maybe a dremel, utility knife

The car runs fine and power felt good, but its been a little while since I've driven. Real test will come when I get out to the track and can measure vmax at end of straights.

No pics right now as I was in a rush to finish, but since I still have to play around with a few things, I'll take some.

02-20-2019, 07:07 AM	#71
Quadcammer Registered User Join Date: Dec 2016 Location: Clifton, NJ Posts: 1,135	ok here goes. Might be a bit rambly. General steps: 1. Drain pressure from fuel lines, remove battery cables, remove stock intake plenums, all associated vacuum lines, harness connections, and fuel rails. Be super careful with the AOS hose if you plan to reuse. Its a biatch to get in or out and if you flex it, it will crack. 2. Remove SAI pump if you haven't already done so to get plenums out. 3. Remove AOS 4. Remove Alternator and loosen a/ compressor. 5. Clean and vacuum areas in question, making sure to stuff towels or similar in intake ports 6. Mark, drill (5.5mm) and tap (m6x1x15mm depth) your holes. My holes were not perfectly located so I had to hog out aluminum intake risers. Not perfect, but good enough. 7. bolt down lowers with new steel gasket (make sure to slot gasket holes if you had to widen intake holes). Retighten a/c compressor and reinstall alternator 8. I used a 3/4" hose with hose spring to prevent collapse to replace that dreaded AOS hose. That will slot through the holes in the aluminum riser. I ended up using the 45 degree angle AOS connector from the upper AOS hose to make the angle better on the lower AOS fitting, but I don't think its necessary. 9. cut tabs off stock fuel rail, use rubber clamps with longer m6 bolt and nut to hold rail in place. On my model year, the regulator side rails is bigger than the other side oddly enough. Could not tell you why, but clamps will need to be sized accordingly (i used 3/4" clamps and slotted and shortened them as necessary. 10. bolt down fuel rail being cautious about how fuel lines are run. 11. Lower the motor by at least 1.25" using spacers. I ended up using some thick washers along with my spacers to make a more solid lowering arrangement. Any less than this and the damn passenger side plenum hits the body. At 1.25", its close, but it clears. I lowered the tranny about .25" by using spacers above the triangle brackets that hold the tranny. This is only possible with aftermarket mounts. 12. Cut the vacuum hose on the drivers side with the slide on connection. Run 5/8" hose with hose spring from the remaining line to the slide on connector piece to make a splice. The hose spring is necessary to prevent the hose from collapsing. Clamp with regular hose clamps, but don't go nuts 13. Route all your vacuum lines as necessary. You have the one from the fuel pressure regulator and one from the SAI (with check valve (blow in it to confirm which side goes where)) that go into the crossover boots so be mindful there. 14.Remember to hook up your crossover flap vac lines and electrical connector 15. Bolt on your upper plenums with new gaskets. 7.5 foot lbs on all intake bolts. Don't torque these yet, leave them in but loose. 15. squeeze in the crossover tubes. much easier with upper plenums installed but not bolted down hard 16. Install all remaining ancillaries, tighten all clamps, secure plenums, zip tie or otherwise secure wiring harnesses, etc etc. 17. I had to shorten my custom intake tube to make the angle better. Maybe 1" cut off did the trick. Honestly, the hard part and long part was waiting for parts and trying to do stuff without removing nearby things that just made life harder. Pro-tip, if you think it might be easier to do something with something else removed, just do it. wasting time trying to sort it out with the thing in the way will just frustrate Pro-tip 2: Don't tighten much of anything until you have everything in place (does not apply to aluminum risers). Basically the upper plenums, hose clamps on the crossover, etc should stay loose till you're ready for final tightening. Pro-tip 3: Upon start up, check for vacuum leaks and particularly fuel leaks. Have fire extinguisher handy. Luckily I had none of either. Tools: drill, metric drill set with 5.5mm bit, m6x1 tap, drill block (optional, i probably would not use again), 90 degree drill bit holder the accepts round bits, variety of hand tools, maybe a dremel, utility knife The car runs fine and power felt good, but its been a little while since I've driven. Real test will come when I get out to the track and can measure vmax at end of straights. No pics right now as I was in a rush to finish, but since I still have to play around with a few things, I'll take some.