Quote:
Originally Posted by SCCA_AX
Cool stuff. I agree that the M030 likely isn't worth the cost and effort at this point since you've already swapped the shocks. If you end up consistently within a tenth or two of the top NDs, then maybe it's worth tearing back in there.
According to thrust charts, I have the ND1 out-accelerating the 986S in 2nd up until about 50mph. I haven't run a chart on an ND2, but I'd wager it pulls on the 986 in 2nd all the way to 60. The 986 does have a tall 1st though, so any time you can use 1st you'll have an advantage over them. I doubt either car runs into issues putting their power down very often.
I waded into that GRM thread a bit, and looks like you have all of the mis-information covered already, but just to note anyone else wandering into this thread that:
- ROW M030 is not CS legal
- 18x7.5/18x9 are the widest legal factory wheel, which means you can run 17s or 19s in those widths as well
I've never driven a 986S but from what I hear you'll want to do everything possible to get more front grip. On a top-tier build I would consider experimenting with front bumpstops. They're open in street as long as they don't engage any sooner than the factory ones. That means you can shorten the long OEM ones, which would have the effect of softening the front end in most situations.
Good luck and I'll enjoy following this thread. Hell maybe I'll see you in Lincoln in CS.
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Yeah, if I actually start getting close to the top of the field, I'll look a lot closer at the US M030 setup, especially for the springs and other swaybar. Shortening the front bumpstops is also a more advanced tweak that is an option as we go on.
Next step is the tires, then the swaybar. We are still on basics now.