Quote:
Originally Posted by Javelin
Standard. I can't get a complete breakdown on Porsche letterhead of the M030 package and my car doesn't have it equipped already, so it's not worth risking right now. I can change the struts and one sway bar anyway, so it's basically just the springs and other swaybar if I ever do get my hands on the info.
Gearing is super favorable for Nationals-levels courses. Second fuel cuts at a GPS and data-logged verified 73 MPH, which is higher than the 67ish of the ND, and the 986 S makes more torque and from a lower RPM than the ND so grunt out of the hole should not be an issue. I'm going to dyno the car after finalizing the new exhaust to get good torque vrs RPM graphs to estimate acceleration G's.
I am running the staggered 18's and tires, I am theorizing that absolute peak grip is going to be more important than the superior transitioning of the square setup. I ran square setups on the RX7, Miata, 944, and 914 and staggered on the P71, Javelin, and Cobra, so I have experience with both.
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Cool stuff. I agree that the M030 likely isn't worth the cost and effort at this point since you've already swapped the shocks. If you end up consistently within a tenth or two of the top NDs, then maybe it's worth tearing back in there.
According to thrust charts, I have the ND1 out-accelerating the 986S in 2nd up until about 50mph. I haven't run a chart on an ND2, but I'd wager it pulls on the 986 in 2nd all the way to 60. The 986 does have a tall 1st though, so any time you can use 1st you'll have an advantage over them. I doubt either car runs into issues putting their power down very often.
I waded into that GRM thread a bit, and looks like you have all of the mis-information covered already, but just to note anyone else wandering into this thread that:
- ROW M030 is not CS legal
- 18x7.5/18x9 are the widest legal factory wheel, which means you can run 17s or 19s in those widths as well
I've never driven a 986S but from what I hear you'll want to do everything possible to get more front grip. On a top-tier build I would consider experimenting with front bumpstops. They're open in street as long as they don't engage any sooner than the factory ones. That means you can shorten the long OEM ones, which would have the effect of softening the front end in most situations.
Good luck and I'll enjoy following this thread. Hell maybe I'll see you in Lincoln in CS.