Any thoughts of installing " flats " on either end of the tube to allow a wrench to turn/adjust vs. the knurled section you currently have ? I picture the car being on an alignment rack with the holes in the aluminum plate being slotted . Loosen the nuts/bolts on the aluminum plate and now adjust with your cross bar to whatever alignment spec's can be achieved . Tighten down the secondary nuts on your bar and then tighten down the aluminum plate hardware . Is that the general idea ? I'm thinking turning the bar with a wrench vs. your finger tips on the knurled section would be easier . Just thinking out loud .
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2002 Boxster S Arctic Silver with black top with glass window and black leather interior. Jake Raby 3.6 SS ( the beast ) with IMS Solution. 996 GT3 front bumper , GT3 rocker covers and GT3TEK rear diffuser and Joe Toth composites rear ducktail spoiler .
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